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Published: April 6th 2010
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And the Rains Come In
As we cross the Malawian Border Not been in touch for a while, very sorry about that. Unfortunately, our long term travel companion - you all know him; he reminds us to call home once a week, shows us the best photos in Africa taken by us and brings us the latest films/Gavin & Stacey series’ which we watched thoroughly in Tanzania - our poor little Dell laptop (a.k.a. Dell Boy) caught a sub-Saharan tropical virus and died just after we crossed into Zambia. To cure the problem we have visited numerous witch doctors in Zambia, Namibia and now South Africa and have just managed to bring him back to life; and although disappointed he has missed two amazing countries he has personally promised to hang in there to see us through until the bitter end (in fact he is currently keeping the satnav GPS going while the cigarette lighter is on holiday, but that’s another story).
So we crossed into Malawi and into rainy season. The rain coats were out and in proper use for the first time on our trip. We stopped in Chitimba, and hiked up into the mountains of Livingstonia to a small campsite called the Mushroom Farm, with beautiful views over
Lake Malawi. There is no transport up the mountain, and the only way is the 15km hike straight up and back down again for us. There we were delighted to see the guest book signed by previous traveller friends of ours, Eoin and Grainne who were there just over a year before.
From there we decided on a destination described by our guide book as “an absolute gem” in the middle of the forest, with roaring wood fires. It wasn’t, it was a dump! And having found our way into the middle of the forest; it was a long way out again, and it was raining, and there were no buses when we got to the main road. Almost miserable. Thankfully three lovely Malawians picked us up and dropped us to the nearest big town where we could catch a minibus to Lilongwe where the staff at Don Brioni’s cured our woes with steaks and beers after a fun-packed day of travel.
A Southern Traverse
Next we headed for the Christian Orphans Outreach Mission (COOM) in a small village down south called Ntcheu. COOM are sponsored by the people of Fermoy in Ireland where Niall
The COOM Team, Ntcheu
Yona, Niall, Evelyn, Sakina, Katola and Fegrita is from. The people in Ntcheu were wonderful hosts and we spent a few days as the guests of Evelyn, who runs COOM, and her husband Laurence. The charity work revolves around providing education and agricultural support to families who foster local orphans. We visited several of the local communities and families to see the good work and meet some of the local people. Everyone made us feel so welcome, and we had a lovely few days.
Then on further south to Blantyre where we had been put in touch with Maggie and Brian who hosted us for a fantastic barbeque. A few glasses of wine and we were all set on hiking up Mount Mulanje - which is the landscape that Tolkien based Lord of the Rings on - but a combination of us needing some relaxation time on the beach and realising in the sober morning that we did not actually have any hiking boots meant that will have to wait for the next trip.
Another Bus Journey….
So then we jumped on yet another Malawian bus and headed north for the lake again. A planned stop at Senga Bay was first on
About time Niall cut his hair!
Thanks Mylo, now that is what you call a house/tent call!! the list, again thanks to our trusty (!?!?!?!) guide book who recommended it. But after 5 hours the bus dropped us to the nearest town where we climbed in the back of a pick-up truck to go another 10km and be dropped at the end of a dirt road. Then only a 5km hike with our backpacks to get to the camp site. No wonder we were the only ones there! So we decided against staying too long. In fact, we only stayed for a few hours over night and then decided to continue on for some decent beach and chill out, so we jumped on another bus the next day for the apparent 3 hour trip to Nkhata bay… 3 hours eh? That would be good going for the 200km trip to Nkhata Bay we thought when we were told, but let’s see. No seats on the bus either, so we had to stand at the start.
1 hour later, still no seats.
2 hours later, still no seats.
3 hours later, still no seats. No sign of Nkhata Bay.
4 hours later, no seats. No Nkhata Bay.
5 hours later, still no
Celebrating Mark & Andreas Engagement
Niall, Stef, Andrea, Mark, Dee & Mylo in Mayoka Village seats. No Nkhata Bay.
Then it happened. Dee saw it first, then Niall. Could it be a dream? Was it real. Yes it was real, a sign post. And it said:
Dee started to cry. It was too much, 5 hours standing on a cramped bus with 100 other people and we are only half way there. It was all just too much.
But we got there, and it was worth it. Nkhata Bay was our Valhalla, our Nirvana. Beautiful lake, great food, lovely views. Total chill out. And we met up with all our friends again. Stylo made it south from Zanzibar, and two other fellow traveller friends of ours Andrea and Mark - who got engaged in Zanzibar - also arrived. We met some great people and drank way too much beer. It took a week to drag us out of the place.
Three Irish and A Spanish are on Their Overland Tour Again
And our two became four again as we wandered off meandering with Stylo once more. We had had a tough trip, but to be fair so had they. Stylo
Sunrise Farewell to Lake Malawi
As we dash off to get on another bus had texted us along the way, while we were making our way from Blantyre to the Lake, to let us know where they were:
Stylo Tanzania 26th Feb: Lads, in da south tanz in da midl of nwher.wat we taut wud b a nice way dwn 2malawi by da coast turnd in2 a nightmare. Stuck with 2 crazy nglish backpackers in deir 70’s! We wont mak it4 3 days.we cudv takn bus from Dar,just 12h but we taut dis itd be nicer..wat a trip 😊
Stylo Tanzania 27th Feb (1): Made it2da middle of nowhere part2.prob wont reach our dest til mond!found out dat 1of da ladies is on a mission 2look 4da father of her son.Is dat crazy r wat?
Stylo Tanzania 27th Feb (2): In twn called Tunduru. 8hrs of dirt rd 2da east n west-we’r talkn midl of nowher. 1000 for 6 mango,4 orange,8 banana! Peopl ere r so nice!
Stylo Tanzania 28th Feb: Hola! Arvd in Songea, not da border but a diff twn 8hrs from Mbeya. If we can,we’l try n hit lake Malawi 2mor n if not defo tues. Sick of buses n need chil time!
Stylo Tanzania 1st Mar: Mbeya at las-5days of buses l8r! 2l8 2get 2 bordr. Headn at6 2mor morn-rite 2 chitimba. We’r shattered! Can’t wait2tel ye da entir story! Buzz ye 2mor 2arrang meetn.
So when the four of us did finally up sticks and leave Nkhata Bay having recovered from our travel wounds it was back to Lilongwe where we enjoyed a quick over-night camp on the golf course; the only one in Malawi. Also, we dashed around trying to get rid of the shoe box of Malawian kwacha. The biggest note in Malawi is the 500 kwacha, and at 220 to the pound, that makes them worth about £2. So you end up with 50 of them in your wallet most of the time.
And then we were off to Zambia. Dell Boy is already hard at work, so next update will follow very, very soon.
All the best,
Niall and Dee
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Sally
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I love your missives! really great to hear about your adventures which sound unendingly exciting. wishing you lots of love as you keep going- how will you ever stop travelling now? xxx