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Published: March 6th 2007
Bad wether during the boat ride. Everybody from the first class had to come to the 2nd to hide from the rain.
Malawi wasn't on our initial plans, not that we have any, but we first thought on crossing from Mozambique straight to Tanzania. As we had done a detour to Zambia to sell the crasymobile, why not visit another well recommended country (we are getting expert on that, Uganda, Rwanda, Congo and now Malawi)
. Malawi has the nickname "The warm heart of Africa". Well given, because we found that people are indeed very welcoming (Exception to the police officer in the border control that had to be bribed to do not more than the job he was supposed to do in the first place)
. But the beer "Kuche Kuche Mowa Watu Watu"…hehehe… was cheap enough to compensate (33 cents of dollar for 500ml)
Our trip to Malawi started in the capital, Lilongwe. We arrived there at 3:00 in the morning and had to wait 'till 6:00 before they would open the luggage compartiment of the bus. They said is too dangerous to do it during the night(??) After a small nap in the bus, we managed to go the camp.
The camp we stayed had just been bought three month before by a British couple that was traveling by truck
We left one and took another boat wile locals unloaded all their goods
across Africa. They arrived, like the place and now is their home. Sound like some of our common dreams, arrive in a paradise place (not much the case of Lilongwe in our opinion…)
, buy a hotel and stay there forever. One interesting aspect of this camp is the histories about travelers, bizarre stories of people we ended up meeting in Lusaka. If you think you can do what ever you want because you are in place nobody knows you, forget it! The world is small and stories travel fast.
Lilongwe we left followed by Amai, a crasy Mongolian guy we met in Lusaka (always the same people everywhere, we are getting convinced that the world is much smaller them the maps tell us)
. Very proud of his country and its history, didn't stop to tell stories about Gengiscan, Attila and why the Chinese had to build a wall to protect themselves from the Mongolian. Someone that, like us, sold everything he had and came traveling until the money runs out. He had a very peculiar way of traveling cheap, negotiating rides and prices. So, traveling is his stile, we took a whole day to arrive in Cape Mclear. We
Give me a ride please
Waiting beside the road to get a ride to Monkey Bay
took rides in small distances, every time cheaper and in better transport.
In Cape Mclear we met two Swedish girls (Linn and Therese)
and a British couple (Tom and Fiona)
we had met before in Lusaka (Small world again)
. Early next morning we, together in a big group, took the Ilala ferry up the lake. It took us two days and two nights to arrive in our destination Nkata Bay, and although very slow, the Ilala experience is really worth. Every one of the dozen stops, we could either go for a swim jumping from the 3rd deck into the crystal clear water of the lake or watch the small boats loading the Ilala with everything you can imagine. People, from the villages on the lake shore, all kinds of goods including chickens, goats, living fishes for aquarium, canoes, sofas, and so on.
After tree days in Nkata Bay, this little paradise in the shore of lake Malawi, we went north to our last stop in Malawi, Chitimba. Another lake beach place, not near as good as Nakata bay, but in easy distance from Livingstonia (yes, is spelled correctly)
. Livingstonia is a very nice little town with a
The Ilala Fery
Waiting to departure of the Ilala fery. From left to right:Linn (Sweeden) Claudio, Therese (Sweeden), Fernando, Fiona (S.Africa/UK), Tom (UK), Amai (Mongolia)
very small museum about the city and the Scottish missionary’s history. A good place to visit if you have transport. Otherwise you can end up like us. Having to hike back 15 kilometers carrying 15 kilos of luggage on your back. Enjoy your hike!
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