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Published: October 1st 2015
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The Massai Mara is incredible! It is currently in the last few weeks of the wildebeest migration. Migrating are over one million wildebeest with a collection of zebras, impalas and others that follow. A “crossing” is when the wildebeest cross rivers in mass and are taken by crocodiles, leopards, lion and their own stupidity. We saw a crossing that was fortunately success for all “beesties” in the pack.
Dad got to see his huge male lions with the impressive manes! Along with many lionesses and cubs. The cubs are big but play like kittens. Our last night we chased down the large male lions again. They were having naps. We drove right alongside them to take photos. One looked up to acknowledge our presence that quickly resumed sleeping. As we watched they eventually rolled onto their bags with their legs up showing their delightful while tummies. I knew their fur would be soft and lovely but I wasn't tempted to touch.
We’ve also seen two cheetah families; one with youngsters ready to send off on their own and the other with little three-month olds. He was very happy (the guide, too!) to find is coveted leopard on one of our final
game drives. The leopard has two four-month old cubs – so playful!
Outside our tent (really a tent!) are regularly hippos and buffalo all night. We can hear hyena most nights and who knows what else wanders through. The lady that put together the trip slowly progressed the lodging so the most rustic was last. We were ready to sleep so close to the wild by the time we were here. We both are awaken many times each night with hoofs and wild animal calls but quickly drift back to sleep. That would not have happened if this was our first camp.
I do need to specify that while a tent, we are not roughing it. The tent has a floor and three rooms, including the en-suite bathroom with running water and plumbing. Attendants come in multiple times each day to pick up our laundry, leave cleaned, folded and ironed clothes, place hot water bottles in the beds before night, and open and close tent flaps. They elected to keep the “bucket shower” experience. To shower you either reserve a time or radio in to have water brought to your room. Nice hot water is lifted above the shower to
an overhead bucket. You pull the chain and the shower begins. If you run out of water before the shower ends, you tell the shower attendant you need another and he goes back to the tank and refills the buckets.
We went on a hot air balloon ride early one morning. Our wake-up came at 4am so we could depart at 4:45am. Wake-ups, in all camps where we’ve stayed, are attendants with coffee or tea, whichever you prefer. Views from the balloon were amazing. The balloon ride and champagne breakfast were topped only the uniqueness of the experience. Sharing our 16-person “basket” were visitors from China, New Zealand, Australia, Portugal and two others from the US. With our pilot from Kenya, we had what one person called an “international feast” in honor of the lion that promptly came out of the bush upon our landing.
Leaving the tent at 4:45am, even with the guard, was a bit unnerving. Animals near while I am in bed are one thing, crossing paths with hyena, buffalo or a leopard are slightly different. Safe and sound we made it!
I’ve been asked about the food. All very good! We’ve had favorites but have been
pleased in all spots. Word was sent to each camp in advance about me being a vegetarian and they prepare options for all meals. We usually have breakfast out on the game drives. Lunch is ready at 1pm. Depending on the location, this is either buffet or plated. Dinner is at 8pm. Again, depending on the location it is either plated or passed “family style” by waiters.
We had a total of 12 days on safari. In addition to seeing exotic animals up close and personal, we got to learn a lot about the tribal cultures and customs of Kenya. Guides have been wonderful about opening up about their own lives and asking questions of us. Staff at all resorts live on-site. These are considered very good jobs. They leave behind their spouses, children and extended families when they become camp employees. Many have lived this lifestyle for years.
The Kenyan government subsidizes primary school for children up to grade eight. After the 8th grade, if children continue on then they move to boarding school. Several of the camp employees I visited with started their children in boarding school from a younger age to provide them with a better education.
This is a big sacrifice for families. Children are not home to take care of livestock and farms and the cost of board school is quite high they share in relation to income.
We are now in Nairobi overnight and will leave in the morning for Zambia.
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Pat Bossen
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Just in awe
It's nearly the end of your trip now, and I've saved all the blog messages, will likely download your fabulous photos. So many of us will never venture as far as you have, we truly appreciate your sharing your trip. Travel safely, and we look forward to visiting when you return home.