Sports Day with the Massai Children

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Isaac and Josephine (my host) at the age of 25 and 22 are the same age as my own children so our relationship is somewhat strange because I am automatically mothering them and they are also doing the same to me. I'm given a sunset curfew and have to telephone ahead if I'm late. When I ask to go out walking on my own I'm told if I can go alone or not, if not then Isaac accompanies me. It's very sweet of them but it's also strange having this role reversal.

I'm yet to meet Josephines family, as the women are not allowed to see their families once they are married without special reason. I'm hoping I get to meet them before I leave. Josephine was brought up much like a slave. Her mother left when she was just one years old (or that's what her father told her) and her father went on to marry another woman and they had a further 10 children. As she was from a different relationship she was made to do much of the work, ate the scraps of food left by the rest of them and had to sleep on the floor whilst the others had mattresses. She doesn't resent them at all for it, it's just the way things are here and she accepts it. This is why orphanages are needed because some orphaned children are taken in by other families and then the child is brought up as a slave.

Isaac has told me that a group of boys aged 12 are to undergo their circumcision soon and he explains of the procedure.

A few days before the operation, a boy must herd cattle for seven consecutive days. Circumcision would take place on the eighth day. Before the operation, boys must stand outside in the cold weather and receive a cold shower to cleanse himself. As he moves towards the location of the operation, his friends and male members of the family shout encouragement along with nasty looks and sometimes threats. For example, people would tell the boy, "If you kick the knife, we will kill you! If you run away from the knife, your society will disown you. (It has been known for boys to run and they have been disowned). Women are luckier and are spared of such comments. Needles to say, circumcision is not pleasant. No pain relief drugs such as anesthesia and you cannot flinch your eye. Circumcision is painful yet means a lot to every Masai.

Circumcision takes place shortly before sunrise. It is performed by a qualified man. After the operation is successfully completed, the boy would receive gifts of livestock from his relatives and friends. He would also gain a tremendous amount of respect for his bravery. The healing process will take 3-4 months, and boys must remain in black cloths for a period of 4-8 months. After they are healed, they have become a new person and receive the status of a new warrior.

Josephine has the pleasure of hosting the next merry go round (a woman's community group) on Monday 27th in the afternoon. Because of this she is only working until 10.30. Josephine and another teacher there seem to drop their work responsibilities for anything. She says it's because she has to make chapattis and tea for the group and will not have time. I've offered to help with the cooking so she can stay at school. I've also tried to explain to her that the children need all the teaching hours that she can offer and that she is letting the children down by not going to work. She finishes work at 12.30 and the group is not set to arrive until 4pm I know she will have plenty of time more in fact with my help but she says no. Isaac also shows his authority and tells her she is not to go to work at all, not even until 10.30. I think this show of authority was for my benefit. So she doesn't show for work and I'm asked why she has not attended, and tell them I don't know.

Women start to arrive for the merry go round from 4pm and all bring firewood for Josephine. The wood combined will last her nearly 12 weeks which will be a big help after she gives birth in April. All the women recognise me from last month and are happy to welcome me once again. They have each bought I kitchen item, trays, plates, cups or pots. They sing and dance in a circle and then give their gift to one member of the group. They are so thrilled to be chosen to accept the gift. It's a great experience sitting and watching.

Isaac has told me of a tree that the village was named after so that was our first destination on one of our walks. The tree, I'm told, is dried up when all the other trees around are green and when all the other trees are dried up, this tree is very green. It is very large in comparison to the surrounding trees and dominates the area. There are only two other Olasiti trees in the whole of the valley. Another tree of interest was a tree that they call the sacred tree, and it is where the men go to prey. They travel for miles to come to this tree. It's sacred because of its uniqueness as there is one tree growing inside of another. You can see quite clearly the two different trees, both have different trunks and branches. It really does look quite unusual. They also come to prey at this tree when they go up the mountain to hunt buffalo. If they should see a woman on the way to the mountain they turn straight back and go home as the sight of a woman on the way to hunt is considered bad luck and it's thought that either the woman or the man will die if he continues.

On one of our walking routes, I was shown which plants trees etc were used for medicinal purposes. He showed me one which was used for back ache and as I am suffering with mine due to sleeping on wooden planks, I asked if I could pick some to prepare. I have got painkillers but wanted to see if worked. The plants are ground and boiled and so the end result is a bitter green and unpleasant tasting herbal drink. It didn't have any affect whatsoever so I'll stick to my painkillers from now on. There are also some trees that the men cannot cut down if their father is still alive, otherwise, it is considered bad luck.

Sports day at the school was great fun, all the children took part and seemed to love it which i was thrilled about. No parents turned up which was no surprise and only one teacher. We've waited until 10am for more teachers so had to make a start without them. I'm really disappointed in my host Josephine as she is one of the teachers that was late and didn't turn up until 11am. Even when she did arrive she sat in the library and didn't want any part, this was a day off as far as she was concerned. The head teacher is the only one who seems to care about the children, he takes real pride in them and struggled to explain what to do in each race and keep the other children quite. After a while I asked/told Josephine to help. We managed 4 races for each child in the time we had with prizes of sweets at the end (I didn't manage to get the medals). We had sack race, ball and spoon race, skipping race and then an obstacle course. All the children cheered each other on. I've printed most of the photos of the day so I can make a collage to put upon the school wall. Hopefully some other volunteers will perhaps organise another in the future. The hoola-hoops and balls were given to the children at the orphanage. To carry on with the sports theme, we've borrowed a rounder’s bat and ball from the school and are taking the adults for a game in the afternoon.

More volunteers have arrived and it's good to have fellow "white folk" to talk to, although some I've ended up babysitting because they are not happy in their environment. Some clearly have done no research and are struggling with such limited resources. I've surprised myself how easily I've adapted, there are many things that I thought I would struggle with but haven't. In the main, no electric, limited water, no toilet etc. In fact, the convenience of peeing in the nearest bush has it's benefits. The only thing I'm really struggling with is sleep. The wind is so strong every night and the tin rattles and bangs all night long, along with an uncomfortable bed. Some volunteer homes do have solar showers and electricity and cook on gas but in a way I'm glad I'm where I am to gain the full experience. The chicken is now sharing my room full time due to the fact she has laid eggs under my bed. Thankfully she (Gloria) sleeps soundly! I'm having weekly, sometimes twice weekly FaceTime chats to family and friends with calls in between which is helping me enormously. I'm finding it increasingly difficult to not give my opinion or pass comment on the way they do things here without offending their culture but i feel this is possibly the best way.

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Photos

The Sacred Tree
look how the branches inter wind

Comments

[Tracey]

Hi
Love your blog, well done for organising the sports day it looked great fun, just a shame the adults could not see this. I will take my iPad to work so if you are free one of the days next week to face time let me know.... Well our news.. The solicitor who joined in August left on Friday so it has been manic - new locum solicitor starts Monday, however the big news is Ruth. Ruth suffered a stroke on Tuesday during the night, apparently she fell out of bed twice and could not get back up at which point her husband realised there was a problem and dialled 999. She has had tests and is currently waiting the results - she is affected down the one side and is struggling to talk - she was not well on Tuesday at work in so much as she was very emotional, kept getting stressed over the smallest thing and had a headache - if only we knew then what we know know. Too soon to know what the prognosis is but fingers crossed. Stan's funeral is on Friday so I have been busy organising things for that - all in all I am glad that January is over and hope that February proves a better month. Martin has been in the papers a lot over the last 2/3 weeks in his presidential role due to all the buts in legal aid etc... Gavin is busy with eurovision and next week we are all in London for his Birthday and then he is meeting friends to watch one of the Countries choose who is going to represent the country in Eurovision. Tina has been in touch and her wedding is April 4th - Gavin is not impressed as he told her April would be difficult as he is in Amsterdam 5th April - another Eurovision event - James is probably going to stay in London. No idea what the rush is and why it is so soon and will be sorry to not have you home to celebrate - I will make sure I do it for you. I have invited Barry for Sunday roast tomorrow but not sure yet whether he can make it. 6 Nations Rugby started today so he may be otherwise occupied. Hope to speak to you next week - take care, love you xxxxx

[Anne Doveston]

Hello
Just back this week from Morocco. Agadir was hot, sunny and a good breeze across the Atlantic. We sent you a postcard, you can read on your return. Well, some progress with your project and you look as though you are really enjoying the experience. I would not be quiet so restrained as you have to be. Children die from circumcisions. At the moment here in the whole UK there is a big campaign against FGM. It has hit the political landscape too and Gove (Education Sec) is being pressured to train all teachers as girls are being sent away during school hols for the procedure. We think the problem is really big here. I wonder how we can change culture Lisa? We must not think ours is always the best too, but where there are inequalities, and human rights are being denied, we can only try to change stuff! Love you lots you will be different when you get back. Ps. Hope your back is better. A&W X

[LikingHikingLisa]

Hi
Glad you had a good holiday, may be planning a trip to morocco myself at the end, not sure yet. I'm struggling with the culture, it's so oppressive to women and girls. I have seen the campaign against FGM before I left and done some research about it. Some women here are dead against FGM but are too frightened to speak up. There is an orphanage in the town full mainly of teen girls who have fled their homes afraid of being "cut". I'm travelling home earlier than planned and am arriving home early April now. Partly because I don't feel as if I can do as much for the next two projects and secondly because I'm missing Barry. Speak soon. Xx