Mombasa: Adventures in Fishing on the Indian Ocean and a Relaxing Last Day


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Africa » Kenya
November 14th 2021
Published: November 14th 2021
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Yesterday we had an adventure deep sea fishing on the Indian Ocean! It was a bit more than I expected in a lot of ways (the length of our boat trip, the swells on the ocean, and the disturbing nature of fishing itself).

Let’s start at the beginning. We were up early as we were leaving at 7:30. It was raining when we got up, and while we were having our early light breakfast, but it soon stopped, and it turned out to be a beautiful day on the water. The owner of the fishing charter picked us up and we drove about 1/2 hour to where the boat is docked. My iphone photos said it was Mtwapa Creek (which we used to access the Indian Ocean, because of the reef). It was really pretty and lush going down the creek to the ocean.

I think I said in yesterday’s blog that being out on the boat way out in the ocean will be fun. Well, I wasn’t counting on the swells. Up …down…up…down. I was on the top deck, which was in the sun at that point, and I soon felt quite ill. I came down to the main deck and doggedly stared at the horizon, willing it to go away. The seasickness took some time to pass (Donna gave me a gravol ginger pill which helped a lot).

Just as I was feeling better a fish bit one of the lines, and Martin reeled in a sizeable dorado (mahi-mahi). I suppose it wouldn’t be so bad if the fish was dispatched quickly, but I heard it flapping around for some time as I hid in the inside cabin. I found it really disturbing, and there is no way I am eating that particular fish. I admit it is hypocritical, since I eat fish, but I found it very upsetting, and I don’t think I’ll be eating fish anytime soon. And I’m absolutely never going fishing again, that’s for sure.

However, after awhile I moved back to the top deck, which was shady then, and spent the rest of the time up there. It was breezy, and the ocean was quite calm - no more swells, so I enjoyed that part of the boat ride. No other fish were caught, which made me happy ?. Susan and I chatted with the boat captain and enjoyed the ride. I had thought the fishing trip would be maybe 4 hours, but we ended up being out for 6 hours. I don’t think any of us realized it would be that long. We arrived back at the resort about 2:30, and went straight to the snack bar for a late lunch. We were all pretty hungry by the time the food arrived (it was much slower than the previous day). I had a tasty grilled cheese and tomato sandwich, washed down with a Belozi.

After lunch we braved the onslaught of vendors on the beach to go to see the women selling beach dresses, as Susan wanted one (they are great for beach holidays). She picked one out and then we relaxed in the room before meeting the others for drinks at the lookout bar. I‘ve mostly been having beer or G&Ts here, but I tried a cocktail which was quite nice (their cocktails and mixed drinks are very strong!). We toasted our friend David who passed away on Nov. 12 - Susan had a scotch in his memory. We then went to the buffet for dinner (I had vegetarian Indian), and the others sampled the dorado fish (which the kitchen nicely cooked up and served with a selection of sauces). I just couldn’t bring myself to eat it.

This morning was rainy, but like yesterday soon cleared up and turned into a beautiful day. We had a delicious breakfast (we tried some excellent Swahili foods), and then we checked with reception to confirm our Covid tests which we had booked for 10 am. The woman at reception had told us yesterday that they would come right to the resort to do the test and that we could pay with a credit card. But when we checked after breakfast, it turned out that they couldn’t come, that we would have to go there (it was only a 5 or so minute walk up the road) and that they didn’t take credit cards. The cost was quite reasonable, 6000 Kenyan shillings each (about $67 Canadian dollars), but we didn’t have enough cash. Reception told us we could pay by M-Pesa and that there was a M-Pesa kiosk where I could add money to my M-Pesa account right next door. So we walked to the testing location (wow, it was SO hot once we were on the street away from the ocean breezes). I went to the kiosk next door but unfortunately it was closed so I couldn’t add money to my M-Pesa account. So I said let’s go to the testing place, explain the situation, and they’ll either let us do the test, and pay later, or we’ll go get money and come back to do the test. The woman was very kind and said no problem, we could go get the money after, and we completed the paperwork and had the test (it wasn’t too bad at all). Then we hopped into a tuk-tuk which took us a short distance to a nearby shopping centre with an ATM, and the driver waited as we got the money. As I mentioned the cost was 6000 shillings each, and for some reason, when I saw the 6000 figure listed on the ATM screen I just hit it, and completely forgot we actually needed 12,000. Susan was right there and didn‘t realize either. What idiots! Thankfully I had enough cash with me when we went back to the testing facility to pay. Sheesh. But that left us short on cash. Ah well, we remembered we had some Canadian which we’ll exchange for shillings here at the resort (so we have enough for taxi fare to the train station tomorrow, and for food and drinks on the train journey, and at the airport, etc). Honestly, talk about idiots abroad!

After we got back (the tuk-tuk driver was great, and waited while we went to the ATM, and while I paid at the testing facility on the way back), I collected our beach stuff from the room and met Susan who had gone directly to the adult pool. We said good-bye to the others, who were just leaving the pool, as they are flying out this afternoon, and I immediately jumped in the pool. It was SO hot going back and forth earlier and the pool was SO nice. We had a lovely remainder of the morning at the pool, enjoying a cold Balozi and popping in and out of the pool. Susan gave some swimming lessons to several Kenyans! There are mostly Kenyans here at the resort, mainly from Nairobi I believe. There are few western visitors. We‘ve noticed most Kenyans don’t seem to be very comfortable around the water and don’t seem to know how to swim.

We both had a veggie burger at the snack bar for lunch, returned to the pool for a short time, and then it was time for our massage appointment. We each had a one hour full body massage, and it was just wonderful. It was in a little massage hut, and we could hear the ocean waves while enjoying the fabulous massage. I really want to go for another one tomorrow, if we are able to get a late checkout and they have availability. We’ll check in the morning.

We are relaxing in our room right now, and later we have dinner reservations at the a la carte restaurant (it’s Italian and is supposed to be quite good).

Tomorrow we begin our long journey back to Vancouver, starting with a 5 hour train trip from Mombasa to Nairobi. We both really like taking trains and are looking forward to it. I might post again from Nairobi or Amsterdam (we have a 6 1/2 hour layover in Amsterdam), or maybe not until we get back home. Either way after we return (and I’ve rested for a few days!) I’ll do a wrap up post of our incredible trip.

Assante sana Kenya! What a amazing country you are, with beautiful landscapes, incredible animals, and lovely, friendly people. We have both loved our time here.


Additional photos below
Photos: 28, Displayed: 27


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Small craft on the Indian OceanSmall craft on the Indian Ocean
Small craft on the Indian Ocean

I wouldn’t want to be on that little boat way out in the ocean.
Me waiting for my COVID testMe waiting for my COVID test
Me waiting for my COVID test

It was SO hot there!
Me by the poolMe by the pool
Me by the pool

Modelling my new bathing suit
My beaded Maasai braceletMy beaded Maasai bracelet
My beaded Maasai bracelet

One of the two I got at the Maasai village


9th January 2022

Final Days
Gosh, it seems quite sad that your trip is coming to an end, I've very much enjoyed reading about it! It's been so varied - Holland, then Safari, then Tropical Beach - amazing! I understand why the deep sea fishing trip wasn't that much fun for you, I imagine it was one of those learning experiences though. The 6000/12000 Kenyan shilling story was funny to read about - I imagine the lovely lazy beach days were having an impact here, lol! Gosh, that is a long journey back for you - I imagine these relaxing beach days helped prepare you for this.
11th January 2022

Final Days
Thanks Alex! It was such a varied trip, it seemed longer than it actually was. Yes, the hotel in Mombasa was a disappointment at first, but we had a much improved viewpoint the next day, and ended up very much enjoying our time there. It was a lovely relaxing way to end the trip, and made the long return trip home much less arduous!

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