Choo ni wasa?

---

The smells of East Africa: something burning (usually charcoal or frankencense), bad exhaust and dust and body odors of many types.


One day on the Kenyan side of Moyale (no beer but better food) and then 9 hours on a gut-churning, bone-crunching ride in a cattle truck over corrugated "road" through the North Kenyan desert. There was a lot of red dirt and rocks, sand with low brush, a few trees, a stop for lunch and talk of "shiftas" (bandits!) But the police wouldn't escort the truck convoy so off we went. Two trucks got flat tires and we stopped for each one - ugh! My pants were so bunched up that I didn't think I'd ever see my underwear again. We were like Mexican jumping beans in the truck cab.


Just when I thought my lungs would be forced out through my esophagus, there was the sign for Marsabit! And it wasn't that bad of a town, it was almost luxurious. Small but clean room with an African toilet that FLUSHES! Every morning the mist was so thick that I could barely see across the street - eerie! But then it was clear by 10am. The Rendille tribes people were as curious about our looks as we were of theirs. The children at the morning market couldn't stop touching my straight hair. It's amazing that I'm suddenly so fascinating.


After a few relaxing and boring days, it was time to take a "lorry" to Isiolo. We struck some luck - the Miraj "bus" (truck) made a rare appearance and was headed our way. Well, not really, there weren't enough passengers. We waited another day until there was enough interest. The bus was packed with people, bags of grain, chickens in boxes and goats in sacks. People had to get on by climbing over the grain. We had sugar coming in through the seams in the roof but the road was much better this time. And we went through a national reserve - zebra, warthogs, gazelles, many birds, ostrich and the usual camels, goats and sheep.


When we arrived in Isiolo, we ducked the swarm of people and headed to the Jamhuri hotel, "no-thank-you"ing the whole 80 feet. We made it into a room but we knew there was a crowd outside anxiously waiting our appearance. But we had to eat, so we braved the masses. Mike finally turned to two guys and said frankly, "The hard sell won't work for me." They were sort of surprised but said, "Oh, okay, maybe we see you later."


Small success! We're getting better at telling people how it is rather than accommodate them. I'm learning how to handle power better. And celebrity status and the perception of wealth is a lot of power. 2000 Kenyan shillings later after a bad day in Archer's Post with two local "guides", we learned another lesson..... just say no to local guides. Up early today even though there are fewer mosques here with their jolting early-morning loudspeakers. We had some food and tea (Kenya has only instant coffee) and then a short matatu ride over TARMAC to Nanyuki. Right now we're waiting out the crowds by hiding in the hotel bar - almost clear....


"Care about people's approval and you will be their prisoner." -Tao Te Ching, Lao-Tzu

---