30 of 30

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That was the goal, 30 posts for the summer, and this makes it official. The bags are packed and sitting beside me in a pile in my office. Today had one of those, "yep, it's time" feelings to it. I went out to lunch with the boss and on the drive a man walked by selling a souvenir I had been searching for since I saw it in Kumasi two months ago (can't say what it is since the recipient may be reading), and then at the restaurant I scrolled down the menu and found the one Ghanaian dish I had wanted to try but never did--Snail Soup. So really, I feel like even if I didn't do much sight-seeing while here, I saw more than most, and that's a much more rewarding feeling.

So what to make of this place? More than anything, I am feeling a real commitment to Ghanaians success, and am going to root hard for this country. I'll be honest, this place is not very pretty, the food is not very good, and I don't see myself living here over many other places on the map in my head. But I jsut believe that they are doing things right here. People still help each other, value education, go out of their way to make sure you are enjoying yourself, and it just feels like this place should be better off than it is. Sometimes I've visited a country and you feel a wait of pessimism, cynicism or gaps between segments of society, but here the amount of pride--and it's a quiet, dignified pride too--people have is great. I also have never been so well-received for being an American. In Latin American people would curse and call you a "pinche gringo," in Thailand they want you just for the shuttle fare, and everywhere you wear the bulls-eye because you're an American. But I can't tell you how many times I've had someone in Ghana go, "Oh, America. Great country. I like you guys, you're so friendly/loud/open." And, weird as it sounds, that's what I like about people here, they remind of people back home in a lot of ways. Shy is not in their genes, and you can joke with a complete stranger and have a great time doing it, even making fun of each other, because nothing is sacred, and every person seems to be another story they all want to read. You are never sitting at a table by yourself for long until you join another group or they join you, people in the street just come up and start walking with you, chatting to learn where you are from, what you are doing, and then you shake hands in the Ghanaian way, sliding the palms and snapping the index finger, and they are off into the crowded street.

So I keep wondering why people don't have more here? It's stable, the university system is good, I've worked with some really talented people, but it's still poorer than some of it's corrupt, war-prone neighbors, and so I really want things to keep improving, just so they can say "see, if you do it right, in the end everyone benefits." Ghana just found oil in the past few years, and they will be producing by 2010. I'm hoping this is the little something--more government revenue for education, or health, or the economy--that can tip the scales, because if any people anywhere deserve it, it's the Ghanaians who've helped me find the right bus, taught me how to eat the fufu, and have been calling non-stop today to wish me well.

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Comments

[Leslie]

Great Record
Rafe sorry I missed you in your brief touchdown before returning to school. In case the internet explodes tomorrow (it COULD happen) be sure to make copies of this in your own hard dirve. These musings are GREAT !!! I know I've learned a lot. Thanks for bringing us into the loop.