Blogs from Lalibela, Amhara Region, Ethiopia, Africa - page 3

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Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 20th 2011

Stuck in the pitch blackness of the narrow tunnel, crushed between countless chanting pilgrims, unsure of just how much further there was to go until I would emerge from “Hell” into “Heaven”, I began to get a little panicky. Now, I am not usually one to get claustrophobic, but in this situation I was getting close to hyperventilating. Ten minutes, twenty minutes, thirty minutes… When would I see the outside world again? When would I be able to breathe freely? When at last I saw the beam of light ahead, I understood why this tunnel between the rock-hewn churches of Bet Gabriel-Rufeal and Bet Mekorios is known as the “Way to Heaven”. I sighed a deep sigh of relief and stumbled up the narrow stairs that led into the bright sunlight. At the top of the ... read more
Downtown Lalibela?
UNESCO Covers
Helpful Signs

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

Yes, the 10 hour bus ride to Lalibela was enough to calm me down and digest the previous day. After Alex tried to get into my hostel and called me several times the day after to apologize, I am apologizing now for the generalization that was offensive and disrespectful. I wrote my blog entry while I was still pissed off and it was the anger and disappointment that spoke. But still, telling my stories to my friends they agreed that for a girl travelling alone and trying to make friends in Ethiopia is pretty tuff. I was always jealous, how Moritz could easily make friends and hang out with them without any problem, but neither Susi nor me found it smooth to get on well with guys here. You always have to consider that they might ... read more

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

The previous day, while consuming some honey wine with Pavel we agreed, that he goes hiking early in the morning and I try to arrange some transportation to the airport of Lalibela on Monday. Unfortunately I had to fly back to Addis, as it would have taken 2 days by bus and I still needed to do some souvenir shopping, so I had to sacrifice some money on this adventure. We flew by a very nice and -compared to the bus ride a much more- comfortable plane to Gondar and from there to Addis. I was the only fool clapping when we landed in the capital, but not for respect to the pilot, but because I couldn’t wait inhaling the awfully polluted air of Addis, walking the streets, catching a minibus, seeing the same buildings and ... read more
Ethiopian airlines
spongy sky

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 19th 2011

Woooow, the view from my window was stunning!!! But visiting the 11 churches carved from the rock was even more amazing. The trip started with the so necessary and unavoidable negotiation with the tour guide, who wanted to charge us 500Birr for one day (approx 20€). Which for a tourist is not too much, but knowing my friend Esset who is a primary school teacher and earns 600Birr/month, I felt it very unfair. With my Amharic knowledge and with my mom’s heritage of being good at bargaining I made betam kennesed it to 100Birr each. The churches are divided into 3 groups, representing the 3 first, second and third heavens. According to the legend in the 12th-13th century King Lalibela was poisoned by his half-brother and while in a coma he went on a journey to ... read more
Pavel, Ralph, Dennis & Nega
Lalibela priest
fresco

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 4th 2011

Another flight, this time slightly longer and a drink refreshment, but once again delayed due to late arrival. These passengers are all foreigners and many Rastas, these are the first I've seen, I expected more visiting the motherland of their faith. They are all American and Caribbean. The town is about 30mins from the airport, down a very windy yet paved road. The road is lined with over 30 buses which have been bringing pilgrims to the town all week. When we reach town, there are people everywhere. I am staying at the Bete Abraham which is a brand new hotel, my guide is late so we start into town immediately to see the rock hewn churches and I bump into Scott and Sarah on the way so they join my tour. Entry is 350Birr for ... read more
Bet Medhane Alem
Bet Medhane Alem
Bet Medhane Alem

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 7th 2010

I like Axum. Small and relaxed it allows me to comfortably recharge after the Simien Mountains and the ridiculously bumpy (though scenically beautiful) journey from Debark. The town is of great significance to Ethiopians because it was the Kingdom of Axum that first brought Christianity to the country after King Ezana converted in the first half of the fourth century AD. Locals passionately believe the Ark of the Covenant resides in the St. Mary of Zion church here, although I skip going inside because the church is a recent, and not especially attractive, reconstruction. The biggest draws for me are the numerous stellae here; large, decoratively carved obelisks marking various important Axumite tombs (98% of which remain un-excavated). The largest is 33m high (or long seeing as it promptly collapsed when attempts were made to erect ... read more
My Axum hotel bed
The Rome Stelle
Axum stellae

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela January 6th 2010

Sorry, again no photos. Thought this connection might be able to handle it but have talked nicely to it and the lady in the internet cafe and nothing doing. Will try to get a connection in Addis that allows me to upload photos for the last 3 posts. In the meantime you will have to make do with the words. Dragoman trucks have a feature that I understand is unique to this company - roof seats. There are 4 seats at the front and another 4 at the back. You climb out of the cabin and sit - belted in of course - still in the bus, but on top of it. While there you are exposed to the sun, wind, dust, low hanging branches, electrical wires and a lot of amused looks. You also get ... read more
Rolling Down the Mountain
Where Do You Come From
Discussions

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela December 19th 2009

Geo: 12.0743, 38.8785NOTE: Carole has updated this with more details about our time in Lalibela - plus photos!We came to Lalibela yesterday via Ethiopia Airlines. Interesting story to come on that experience.Richard had purchased the tickets online before we left the US and sometime after that his credit card was used fraudulently so the card was cancelled. We get to check in at the airport and the ticket agent asked to see the credit card. Hmmm, this was obviously going to be a problem because Richard cut it up. After lengthy discussion trying to explain what happened (by the way, the charge had been processed and Richard had already paid the bill) we ended up having to buy tickets all over again. It is important to note that this is not just an Ethiopian Airlines policy. ... read more
Lalibela
Lalibela
Lalibela

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 25th 2009

Geo: 12.0743, 38.8785The drive to Lalibela was great, the bitumen was new and the bends sweeping cambered and sweet. The climb up saw us reach an altitude of 3650mtrs and the Shorty was definitely struggling for breath, the exhaust fumes were thick and black!! The upper world was almost hard to recognise as Africa the people were dressed as you would expect in Afghanistan and we even passed and Aid distribution centre… now on that topic I am buggered why Ethiopians need aid at all. The whole country we have seen so far has been farming and the crops are numerous and plentiful.. In my opinion the Ethiopians appear to have become dependant on foreign aid and it does not appear they are utilising their own resources effectively. The population is 80million and is expected to ... read more
Lunch
Valley View
Priest

Africa » Ethiopia » Amhara Region » Lalibela November 4th 2009

More Amazing Churches, More Amazing Dad Dancing Natala La'ab Monastery Wednesday Morning. Some of us go for a short drive to the Natala La'ab Monastery(?), built into a cave near Lalibela. Our first stop is a religious school near the monastery. The teacher, who we are told is 83 years old, has a class of about 10 boys (no girls) who are training to be priests. The boys are all chanting different passages from the bible and the priest seems to be able to hear each individual and pick out their mistakes. The boys show complete respect for the teacher - {just like being in the UK really!!}. In the monastery some of the religious ceremonies are explained to us and we are shown the hand-written bible which is 600 years old ... read more
Showing Off Some Of The Religious Relics
St George's Church
Drinking Tej




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