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Published: February 9th 2014
9 November
We've arrived in Lalibela where rooms cost almost the same as camping so we're in rooms. YES! And it's been raining so it's lovely to be able to walk under cover and step into the room dry. Ah, the little things.
We had the rest of the day to ourselves and I wandered a little way down the street but spent the time lying on my bed listening to the rain or in the restaurant area of our hotel, planning our next mini-trip. The next day was a long one, spent exploring the main attractions. The monolithic churches were incredible and our guide was enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable but we were a large group with varying degrees of interest and even for those who were, it was information overload. It would've been nice to have a short intro as we arrived at each church and then once we'd had a chance to walk around, ask questions. Either way, it's been great.
Lalibela is Ethiopia's second holiest city (after Aksum) and is said to be a 'symbolic representation' of Jerusalem. Even the river is called Jordan River, which separates the two main groups of churches (then divided
into North, South, East and West groups). We began at Bet Medhane Alem (House of the Saviour of the World), probably the largest monolithic church in the world. It was indeed impressive and while I understand why UNESCO has had a shelter built over some of the churches to add a bit of protection, it really does interfere with the 'wow' factor. Supported by 32 exterior columns and 28 internal columns, Bet Medhane Alem is home to the Lalibela Cross, one of Ethiopia's most religious artifacts. It was stolen and sold to a collector in the mid-1990s but was later found and returned in 2001. Smaller replicas of the cross (and others) are sold in all over northern Ethiopia and many locals also wear them as a pendant on a necklace.
The churches are connected via a series of tunnels (though from the outside, looking down, you'd never know) so we ducked and shuffled through a small passageway and found ourselves outside Bet Maryam (House of Miriam/ House of Mary) which is possibly the oldest of the churches. Nearby are Bet Golgotha Mikael and Bet Denegal (House of Virgins) with Bet Maskal (House of the Cross) sitting a little
distance away. The interiors were dark and cool, with intricately carved work on the ceilings, walls and columns. I loved the ancient looking wooden doors. Priests came out from curtained off rooms holding crosses and took a small payment for the privilege of a photo. Some live within the churches while others travel to and from the town daily. There were a lot of people and considering the religious aspect, I would've thought people might've been less pushy and rude? It was definitely not the place for booming loud voices.
Through a tunnel that leads under the Jordan River, we came out in front of Bet Amanuel (House of Emmanuel), thought to have been a royal chapel. From there, Bet Merkorios (House of St. Mark), Bet Abba Libanos (House of Abbot Libanos) and Bet Gabriel-Rufael (House of the Angels Gabriel and Rafael). Shoes were to be removed in many churches, lined up neatly in groups by men stationed at the doors. At one stage I was the last of our group to exit the church and looked around for my shoes. Most people had moved on and my shoes were nowhere to be found. When I looked up in
despair/annoyance, I saw our 'shoe man' with a cheeky grin on his face, holding my shoes! Someone in my group had put him up to it and he was all apologetic but still thought it was funny. It was nice to stop and chat to some of them for a bit as several people would step out of their shoes and walk into the church, then come back for them - sometimes taking them from someone as they were handed to them - without a word of thanks or even acknowledgement. As part of his fee, our guide tipped them which we were pleased to hear but I know we all smiled and gave our thanks as well which is just as important. But enough of the high and mightiness.
Back above ground, we walked to what was to be my favourite; the cross shaped Bet Giyorgis (House of St. George). The best preserved church and 'most finely executed', it was the last church to be built (12th century) and is carved from red volcanic rock. I sat on the edge looking down on the building for sometime. Unlike any other building in the world, these would have had
to have been built from the top down which makes them even more special. Although I'm not one of the thousands of pilgrims to flock to the town each year, nor am I overly religious, they are most definitely a sight to see and I was thrilled to be there.
The tour concluded back where we started and I was keen to retrace my steps for photos now that the light wasn't so harsh. But I got horribly lost and unable to get down to the churches, eventually going in against the pedestrian traffic. That didn't make me very popular. In the end I turned around and made for Bet Giyorgis again, content to have it almost to myself for a few minutes until the next group arrived. Heading back towards town, I passed through a small, tightly packed group of houses where the clergy and others associated with the churches lived. With fading light due to the overhead trees, women prepared evening meals over open fires, the smells wafting through open windows and doors. Even for a place so accustomed to tourists, people were open and friendly; a smile or two here, a nod of acknowledgement there. There
was no hassle, no expectation. It was refreshing in a country that could test even the most patient of people.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Down time needed
These adventures can be tiring and you need to chill out from time to time. Listening to the rain is perfect. Thanks for the history it brings the area to life.