For my last few days in Egypt I had arranged to ride a felluca from Aswan (the last town before the Sudanese border), back down the Nile towards Luxor. It's something almost every backpacker seems to do, and yes it's horrifcally toursity and kitch, but it seemed like a good way to while-away a couple of days, and was going to be a guilty pleasure before Sudan. First however, I had a day to kill, and spent it exploring Elephantine Island, a 3 mile island in the Nile facing the town of Aswan (disappointingly home to Nubians not elephants). The day started well, as I drank tea and watched fellucas glide effortlessly past, their triangular sails flapping and flailing in the wind, but as I went to explore yet more ancient ruins, it took a slightly
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