Blogs from East, Djibouti, Africa

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Africa » Djibouti » East » Tadjoura January 28th 2020

Our last day is what I was greatly looking forward to. After we had left the interior and returned to Djibouti City again, with another stop at the Casino supermarket, we went to a hotel for our last night. Finally - a shower!!! S and I shared a room - she got the big bed, so I got to shower first. I washed my hair three times; it was still crusted in salt from the day before. Everyone else went out for dinner that night in town, but I just decided to stay in - I was not feeling well and was exhausted. I did not want to be stuck in town having to wait on a ride if I wanted to come back early, so I had a dinner of granola bar. We had all ... read more
The only whale shark we got to see....
No whale sharks?  Need a beer
New snorkel selfie

Africa » Djibouti » East » Tadjoura January 27th 2020

We woke up on the shores of Lac Assal, wind beaten but ready for our next adventure. While we waited for another breakfast of bread and coffee (I grabbed one of my granola bars), some of our group talked to the local people who had set up our camp and made our dinner. One of them was a young girl, 8, and her father lamented that she was getting old and needed to be married off by the time she was 9 before she was too old. It breaks my heart that there is still child marriage - her childhood would soon be over forever. The city seems to be a bit more advanced, but the rural areas still practice these old customs, and many have little if any access to formal education. After taking some ... read more
Djibouti hike day 3 tree
Djibouti hike day 3
Steaming crack from active volcanic area

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City November 10th 2016

Litter was everywhere. It was as if a dumper truck had simply spewed its contents into the street. Random men were lazing about in whatever shade they could find – inside doorways, under trees, besides walls – all of them chewing khat, the ubiquitous drug of choice for men along the horn of Africa. For thousands of years, from the wilds of Yemen to the northern reaches of Kenya, millions of East African men (and sometimes women) had been chewing away on lumps of green leaves to get their stimulation. From what I could see, the men of Djibouti loved it, for all were munching away on the government-approved euphoria, cheeks bulging, teeth stained green. Every morning, fresh lorry loads arrived from neighbouring Ethiopia, which was then distributed among local khat sellers, who sold ... read more
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Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City February 17th 2013

Hereare a few pictures of Dubai. Most are from a bus tour that I took which included a Dhow (pronounced “dow”) ride on the Dubai canal, a tour of the Dubai museum and a walking tour through the souks. The canal is in the old part of the city near Bastakiya. Dhows still bring goods into the canal form the Persian Gulf to trade. They unload right on the docks and leave them there until the people who have shops in the souks come and get them. Souk means market. There are textile souks and gold souks and spice souks, etc. The dhows line up three or four deep on each side of the canal. Apparently there are stiff penalties for stealing the products so no one bothers them. Crime is very rare in Dubai. I ... read more
Dubai
Dubai
Dubai

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City January 16th 2011

It was a very last minute decision to head to Djibouti, but enticed by the chance to snorkel with Whale Sharks, I got a visa in Dire Dawa (and also had to pay my first bribe of the trip), and leaving Ethiopia behind for a few days, jumped onto the overnight bus to Djibouti City. It took a while to get into the swing of things in the former French colony, and I spent the first day or so confused by the language, incredibly annoyed by the lack of Whale Shark tours, and - shocked by the expensive of the place - scared of buying anything. But, once I'd started conversing in a mix of English, broken Arabic, and broken French, learned to ignore the cost of things, and having finally sorted out a Whale Shark ... read more
Old colonial building
Eritrean food kiosk

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City January 12th 2011

It was almost a year ago that I read that you could snorkel with Whale Sharks in Djibouti. At the time it seemed like a distant pipe dream, and was actually soon forgotten as I travelled through the deserts of Sudan and mountains of Ethiopia. But then, one day in Addis, when I'd heard from some other travellers that they had just done it, I knew I had to give it to a go. From there it took six days of buses, bribes, business cards leading to random addresses, as well as an unhealthy amount of cursing my luck, but finally, this morning, I got to swim with whale sharks. I managed to organise the tour through a friend of a friend of a friend of a tourist I'd met, when it seemed like I wouldn't ... read more
Requin de baleine

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City January 2nd 2011

Hotel reception sees me walk in. I ask for availability and she replies. “Yes but you are not allowed to bring any women into your room.” I throw my hands in the air, look disgusted and say “What!...” shack my head, pause to wait for her reaction. Hejab wearing lady is like ‘well that’s the rules’ type expression. I smile and say, “Only joking.” But this is the major problem with accommodation in Djibouti its not that one of the cheapest places is $35. But even after charging me this extortionate rate they have the audacity to not give me the freedom of choice on bringing a prostitute back to my room. How outrageous! No wonder this country doesn’t receive much tourism dollars!! I’m actually trying to make myself not sound like a tightarse by complaining ... read more
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Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City December 17th 2010

Or, perhaps: “How I Almost Ended Up in the Wrong Country”. While I hadn’t expected my excursion to Djibouti to be a straightforward affair, it almost didn’t happen at all. When I got up to the Ethiopian Airlines counter at Khartoum International Airport, the agent decided, on the spot, that she couldn’t check me in because I didn’t yet have a Djibouti visa. I tried to explain that as a US citizen I was allowed to get one on arrival in Djibouti. But to now avail. She claimed that the airport manager would be over in a “minute” to make the final decision…. At least twenty minutes later, there was no sign of the manager and now the agent had turned back three others seeking to go to Tanzania. They were equally baffled – it is ... read more
Out my Window
Place du 27 Juin 1977
Sony Colonialism

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City February 14th 2010

We were enveloped in a disruptive blackness. Somewhere, in the Horn of Africa, our carriage rested, while inside our bodies contorted uncomfortably on plastic benches. Supposedly, this was First Class. But our butts, backs and remaining body parts disagreed in Western fashion as the hours of darkness slowly ticked intermittently between quick slumbers of exhaustion. One person stirred, which caused a domino effect of passengers waking, rustling, and repositioning themselves into something vaguely tolerable. Outside was more of the same. Shouts of Afar and Somali traveled in chaotic yellow beams of flashlights that sliced into the night air. Above, the skies were clear as stars glistened in their full desert regalia. They encircled a waning moon that reflected what little light there was, forming silhouettes of the surrounding landscape. We were found in the middle of ... read more
The Woman of the Sack
The Runaway
Djibouti Moonscape

Africa » Djibouti » East » Djibouti City January 22nd 2010

Nope, I'd never heard of it either until I accidentally opened up my LP one day to reveal the mighty fourteen pages devoted to this minute speck of dust on the map of Africa. My one reader (hi, Mum) might also be wondering why I've chosen to come here. To be honest, I'm not sure myself. There is almost nothing here and even less of any interest. The journey however is fantastic. Back in Logiya it doesn't take long to flag down one of the army of lorries that monopolise the smoothly tarmacked road running into Djibouti. The change in mode of transport is nice and the elevated cab with its vast front windscreen offers spacious panoramic views of the landscape. The post-apocalyptic wasteland that we traverse is an unexpectedly enjoyable break from the mountainous highlands ... read more
Overtaking
Camels
The open road




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