Any country with "Democratic" in its name is bound to be dodgy as hell. As I crossed the Luapula River towards the DRC border post, I was expecting to be well and truly worked over by the border officials for as much money as possible. The chief of the post ended up being a relatively friendly guy, but wouldn't budge from his demand of $50 for the transit stamp. Paul who had suggested that I take this road had also been stung for this amount, so after a while I relented and paid up. But he was then insistent on a "souvenir" from me, so I offered him a photo from the portable printer. This worked well because I got a photo in his awesome cave of an office, and he was placated. A dollar to
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