Almost to Cape Verde

---

We received an interesting bit of news from the captain today. We will not be going to Recife, Brazil, because their immigration officials are suddenly demanding a $500 fee for each Filipino crew member aboard! Apparently it is just this particular state of Brazil that has come up with this corrupt policy, so we will go to Fortaleza, a port in the neighboring state, instead. According to our captain, Fortaleza is a nicer place anyway, with prettier beaches.

Last night the cruise director interviewed our captain, Terje Ulset. He is about 43 years old, 6' 5", with red hair...and is hilarious! He followed a very rocky path to becoming a captain, including driving a truck in Norway for two years, and getting laid off -- twice -- as a deck hand when Norwegian crews were replaced by Filipinos. We have the feeling we are in very good hands and that he has a lot of common sense. He said last year's cruise around South America was wonderful, with perfect weather. It's his favorite cruise destination with the Norwegian fjords coming in second. He is especially looking forward to the Chilean fjords since they were spectacular last year. We shall see.

His interview was followed by the first show of The Black Watch Show Company, the resident singers and dancers. They were terrific! After being terribly disappointed with the troupe on board two years ago, we did not expect much. But this group had wonderful singers, beautiful costumes and great dancing. We were so pleased! We can hardly wait for their next performance.

I had a pedicure this morning. Now that it is warm out, I needed to get my winter feet ready for sandals. This is the first cruise for my pedicurist, Caramina. She is straight from the Phillipines, without much English, but did a wonderful job. I may not put on socks the rest of the trip!

We received a copy of USA News, the much abbreviated daily newsletter today. Mom and I got it everyday last time, but apparently that was one of the perks of being in a suite. Now that we are roughing it in steerage -- not really! -- we don't qualify. I guess sweet-talking the guy at the desk worked, at least for today!

I forgot to mention last time that we had a great surprise during the first formal night on board. As many of you know, Hugh brought his kilt along to wear on these nights. It takes forever to get him dressed with all the bits and pieces that need to be done "just so," so it was lucky I could just throw on my own gown! As we were leaving the Captain's pre-dinner reception, we noticed another fellow wearing a kilt. Hugh was quite relieved to not be the only one. I did a double take, though, when I saw that this man's kilt was the same tartan as Hugh's! And it is a rather obscure tartan! So we asked his name and, sure enough, he is a Watson. David Watson, originally from Edinburgh, but now living in "The South." (This is code for England for those who don't know.) We will certainly have to take a picture of the two Watsons together on some future formal night. And perhaps he can teach me how to tie Hugh's laces so that they don't fall down to his ankles!

Tomorrow we reach Cape Verde, an island further south off the coast of Africa. We stopped there last time, too, on Palm Sunday, so everything was closed. It is a very stark, dry volcanic island, but very beautiful. From there we will head West to Brazil.

---