Back to Oran

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This morning I went with Halima and Mami to the markets. What a PLACE! It sold all vegies, lamb and beef and goat's heads, which made me feel sick, spices and long arab dresses for women. One place sold arabic music and their stereo was playing full blast, adding yet another dimension to the atmosphere. All the women are covered from head to toe in a white burqa. Most only show one eye by folding the material over their other eye instead of under their chin. One such lady, who was huge, stood in front of me and stared at me with this one eye. Next she ran at me and I thought she was going to attack me, but it was only a burst of affection in the form of a hug that was so tight and so sudden that I lost my balance, and next minute I found myself lying on the ground in the dust. I was helped up by a crowd of one-eyed ladies as well as Halima, apologising and dusting me down. Talk about being made welcome!

The men wear white turbans, long dresses and sandals.

When we got home we found Habib had returned! We had lunch and then sat around and talked for a while. I told him about the one eyed lady knocking me over, and about the Hamam and other stories of the past 24 hours. Habib was intrigued to hear what was so familiar to him, through european eyes. Halima told Habib that if he lets me go away she'll never speak to him again, and she said that I would be a 'luck bringer" and would make him rich!

After lunch we went into Mascara and got a taxi back to Oran.

An hour later we arrived back in the city. What a difference! Here no women are veiled and everyone wears western clothes.



We had dinner in a posh restaurant with a friend of Habib's then we caught's taxi to Haj's son's house. It was a large house in a nice suburb, but since they mostly live in France, there were cobwebs and dust everywhere. One room had a photo on the wall of Haj - called this because he goes to Mecca every year.

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