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It is hard to believe today was my last full day in Scotland. This trip has flown by and I am not ready to leave! I looked out the window and saw it was going to be another gray day. While looking through the area information kindly provided at the cottage I stumbled across Hermitage Castle. This was not on my radar at all but after seeing a picture and that it was only an hour drive, I decided to go. What a great decision! The drive southwest wound through rural, mostly wild land. I drove by a pig farm where some cute tiny piglets were running around. The road went up and down loads of hills with beautiful views before winding down to the small town of Hermitage. I turned onto a narrow road and arrived at Hermitage.
This castle is an imposing fortress seemingly in the middle of nowhere. It was started in 1240 and is known as the guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain. Again, there is a link to Mary Queen of Scots. She was in Jedburgh and learned of and injury to the Earl of Bothwell. She rode here by horse to visit him
and then headed back. On the way she was thrown from her horse and soon became ill and almost died. I wonder what Scottish history would have been if she had. She also married this earl some seven months later….
Once again, I was the only person and it was perfect! Timothy, the ticket guy, provided a great overview of the castle and its history. As I walked up to the castle, I was struck by how tall it was and how small the entrance was in comparison. This was done on purpose to make it easier to defend. Inside the cobblestones were a little slippery and I had to watch my footing on the uneven paths. Three of the towers still have their original stone roofs! Those towers are closed to the public for obvious reasons. I enjoyed exploring and being the only person really made it that much better. A short walk the opposite direction of the castle takes you to the chapel. This is just a stone foundation but is still interesting to visit.
I headed back the way I came towards Kelso Abbey. At one point I missed my turn and was rerouted. Again,
Hermitage Castle
This is a close up of one of the original tower roofsthis turned out great as I ended up going through open pasture with sheep and lambs right along the road. It was a beautiful road!
Kelso is completely closed to visitors but I wanted to stop to get some pictures anyway. I will have to return when it is open!
I carried on back to Jedburgh where they had free parking right near the Abbey! First, I had to find some lunch. I chose a place called Taste of Scotland and had a delicious salad of cheddar, ham and caramelized onions. Add in a pot of heather tea and it was the perfect lunch. I then stopped at the Mary Queen of Scots house. This is where Mary stayed while she was in Jedburgh. This free museum has a wonderful exhibit of Mary’s life, including a lock of her hair, a shoe and a death mask. I am really glad I stopped here and learned a little more about her life. Next, I headed to the abbey. Jedburgh also only has the grounds open due to work on the abbey. They had a lovely small visitor center and the grounds are very nice. Jedburgh was founded by the
Augustinian monks around the early 1100s. There is one garden with herbs and other plants the monks would have planted and used during their times. I am not really sure why anyone wants to be a monk. They were up at 2am and to bed at 8pm, one meal a day in winter and two in summer and basically living in complete silence. I guess at least they had a beautiful place to live in.
Dryburgh was the last abbey in the tour. It was also founded in the early 1100s and run by the Premonstratensians. That is a really long name and I have no clue what they do, however they built a beautiful abbey! Of the four, this is the only one where the majority of the site is open for wandering, however it also has the least amount of structure left. It is situated along a river in a really beautiful setting. Notably, Sir Walter Scott is buried here. If you do not know, Walter Scott was a poet, writer and historian who lived in Scotland and apparently is a big deal. Another point of interest here is a Yew tree planted in 1136. It is
older than the abbey itself! I really enjoyed walking the peaceful grounds although this was the busiest place I visited in the Borders. By busy I mean there were 20ish people.
I made a stop at M&S in Galashiels to pick up a salad for dinner. M&S has been a great place to stop and grab a prepared sandwich or salad while taking the train or eating in my room. The food is good and the prices are reasonable.
The highlight of the evening was a visit from Mary, the owner of Hilltop cottage, and her two small dogs. I had hoped to be able to feed some lambs with her but she got back later than she planned from her weekend away and they had already eaten. We chatted in the yard of the cottage for a while. She came walking up with her cane (or maybe just a walking stick), corduroy pants and sturdy shoes. She fit perfectly in this pasture setting! I do not want to leave tomorrow!
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