Dublin - Day 2 - Christ Church Cathedral, Dublinia Museum, St Audoen’s Church, Dublin Castle and St Patrick’s Cathedral

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First on the itinerary this morning was Christ Church Cathedral. The first church was built on this site in about 1030 by the Norse King Sitruic Silkbeard. The Anglo-Normans rebuilt and enlarged the church in the 12th and 13th centuries with it being elevated to a carthedral during this period. The cathedral underwent extensive restorations in the 1870s. Today the cathedral is a mixture of mediaeval and 19th century architecture.

Using the Visitor Guide we explored the cathedral. The cathedral holds the tomb of Richard de Clare who was better known as Stongbow. He was one of the leaders of the Anglo-Normans who captured Dublin in 1170 commencing 800 years of British rule in Ireland. We worked our ways through the quire and the Chapel of St Laud admiring the original mediaeval tile on the floor.

We ventured down to the Christ Church Crypt which is the largest crypt in Ireland and the oldest working structure in Dublin with parts of it dating to the 11th century. The crypt houses the tomb of John Bowes and statues of Charles I and Charles II. The crypt also contains the Treasury which is home to a large collection of plate-ware and a copy of the Magna Carta contained within a larger collection of manuscripts known as the Liber Niger or Black Book. The quirkiest relic in the crypt is the mummified remains of a cat and a rat that were found inside one of the cathedral’s organ pipes during its restoration.

On our entry to the cathedral, we purchased a combined ticket that entitled us to visit Dublinia Museum in the Synod Hall across the road. Unfortunately, we couldn’t walk across the iconic covered bridge, we had to go back out to the street and cross at the traffic lights!

Dublinia is a re-creation museum that enables visitors to explore what life was like during the Viking and Mediaeval periods of Dublin. The museum was really, really crowded with tourists AND students on school excursions - which made it difficult to explore/experience it properly. After making our way through the exhibits we climbed St Michael’s Tower for its views over Dublin. The most remarkable thing about the views from the tower was the number of cranes on Dublin’s skyline. So much building/rebuilding/restoration is taking place! From the tower we were able to walk back across to Christ Church Cathedral using the covered bridge. It turns out its not closed, but you can only walk one way over it.

Our next stop was at St Audoen’s Church nestled beside a well-preserved section of the old mediaeval wall. Dedicated to the 7th century bishop of Rouen and the patron saint of Naomandy, St Audoen’s Church is the only remaining mediaeval parish church in Dublin. The Guild Chapel included an interesting exhibition on the importance of the trade guilds in mediaeval Dublin. From the church we made our way to the old gate in the city wall and then continued along the outside of the wall trying to replicate a photo we had seen of the old city wall with the church spire looming above. We had limited success with that due to all the buses parked down on Cook Street!

Next, we went on a bit of a Steve-led wild goose chase to the James Joyce Bridge and House of ‘The Dead’. We walked past the Brazen Head where we ate dinner last night on our way back to the river. Today we started at the Father Mathew Bridge (1818) and headed west towards the Liam Mellowes Bridge (1768) before arriving at the James Joyce Bridge. Built in 2003 the James Joyce Bridge was rather more modern than most other bridges across the Liffey that have a certain Georgian/Victorian/Edwardian charm about them. It wasn’t really what was expected. The next bridge to the west, the distinctive blue and white Rory O’More Bridge (Cast by St Helen’s Foundry in Lancashire in 1863) was much more appealing.

A big fan of James Joyce, Steve was also interested in the late 18th century house at the end of the bridge where James Joyce’s great-aunts used to live and which he used as the setting for his short story ‘The Dead’. Looking derelict and unoccupied this was also somewhat of an anticlimax.

We crossed to the northern bank of the River Liffey to head east along the river re-crossing to the southern bank at Ha’Penny Bridge to venture into the Temple Bar area of Dublin. With our tummies rumbling it was time to find some lunch. When we were nearby yesterday, we spotted a ‘traditional’ Cornish pasty shop, so we decided to try one of Hanley’s Cornish Pasties. Well, never did you see so many flavour variations on a Cornish pasty!!

What? If it’s filled with chicken and leek, can you still call it a Cornish pasty? Just because it has a crimped edge doesn’t make it a Cornish pasty, does it? Anyhoo we all opted for ‘traditional’ lamb Cornish pasties. Hmmn, we’ve never had a Cornish pasty or any pasty really with chickpeas in it!!! Honestly, these pasties were quite nice (mind you we were very hungry) but more like oversized samosas than pasties!!

Hunger sated it was time to explore Temple Bar. Located by the riverside the neighborhood is spread over a number of cobbled pedestrianised lanes. The area is renowned for its pubs that host live folk music and its wide array of restaurants offering Irish and international cuisine. It also features quirky boutiques stocking vintage clothes and crafts by local designers.

From Temple Bar we walked to Dublin Castle. We were right to take our photos early yesterday morning as we went by as the courtyard was choked with hordes of people this afternoon! We were rather happy to find that our Irish Heritage/English Heritage gained us free entry. That was €12.00/couple saved.

With our History & Art Guides in hand we ventured into the State Apartments and up the impressive Battleaxe Staircase before making our way into the State Corridor and the beautifully restored Apollo Room moved to this location in the 1960s following a fire in the building where it originally hung. We then proceeded into the crimson State Drawing Room with its magnificent chandeliers and the Throne Room where debutantes were presented to society in the 1960s. This was followed with the Portrait Gallery featuring portraits of all the former Viceroys since 1843 and the Comptroller’s Rooms which were occupied by one of the Viceroy’s senior staff members. Next the blue and white Wedgwood Room which was once the Castle’s Billiard Room. We finished in St Patrick’s Hall, Ireland’s most important ceremonial room where the President of Ireland is sworn into office every seven years.

We declared it ice-cream o’clock and made our way to ScoopS while Cathy and Steve ventured off to the Chester Beatty Library Galleries and St Patrick’s Cathedral. My back was killing me so Bernie was trying to fortify me with ice-cream to help me keep going until we could also tick St Patrick’s Cathedral off. The Lidl and our apartment were on the way, so we purchased some more breakfast supplies and dropped them off at the apartment. After my ice-cream fix and some Nurofen I decided I could manage the 250 metres to St Pat’s … without my camera. So tired from lugging that around!

St Patrick’s Cathedral was built in a place where prayers have been offered for centuries. In the 5th century Saint Patrick used a nearby well to baptize converts to Christianity. A small church was built, marking it as a sacred place in the heart of Dublin. The cathedral dates form 1220 and has survived wars, revolutions, the reformation and years of neglect.

With the sun shining the gardens adjacent to the cathedral were packed with sun lovers. And there were HEAPS of people inside the cathedral too. I think I’m suffering a bit of church/cathedral overload after three in one day. I hardly know what to say about St Patrick’s other than it was … impressive! Once again, so much history, so many glorious stained-glass windows and carved oak woodwork. One claim to fame is the crypt of Jonathon Swift (Gulliver’s Travels) embedded in the floor of the cathedral. Jonathon Swift was also the Dean of St Patrick’s between 1713-1745. Another interesting tidbit of information … on the 13th of April 1742 the choirs of St Patrick’s and Christ Church Cathedrals combined to sing the first performance of Handel’s ‘Messiah’ here in Dublin.

Phew, another HUGE day of sightseeing so a Power Nap was warranted before heading out to dinner at Darkey Kelly’s another traditional Irish Pub and only a four-minute walk from the apartment! One more day in the city before we pick up our hire cars and head south. I am really hoping that mixing up sections of driving with our sightseeing will be a bit less intensive than these days walking around Dublin have been.



Steps: 16,158 (10.57kms)

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