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Europe » Greece » Crete » Sfakiá September 12th 2023

Same as lots of times before, we are not where Travelblog says we are but it’s close. We are about 5 hours walk away or just 20 minutes on the ferry at a little town called Loutro. It’s car free which gives it a certain charm straight away, and it means you either walk in (some) or you ferry in (many). Walkers or ferryers probably means you’re a tourist and the town certainly is geared up for tourists. The waterfront is sun lounges, restaurants, bars and kiosks that seem to specialise is cocktails, long drinks and good wine (their descriptions not mine!). The grills and rotisseries were going as we arrived and that was mid afternoon although it’s like that many tourists will head back to other accommodation venues in the evening. Chickens, lamb and beef ... read more
Up and out of Skafia.
What to buy some prime property?
But the coast in good. The rocks there are underwater. Well the wet rocks are underwater.

Europe » Greece » Crete » Sfakiá September 11th 2023

Yesterday was sort of cancelled because I’d had too many ‘metaxas’. With 17 km already walked we thought with only 3 km to go we deserved a quick lemonade and maybe an expresso (read Lipton’s tea for Julie). We got the lemonade, we missed the expresso and we had 6 shots of this metaxa. Fortunately the flavour is pretty good, it’s quite sweet but still scary to be having mid afternoon. The taverna was packed, it was Sunday afternoon, rowdy with banter and people just having a good time but as soon as we were identified as Australian it was on. To compound the situation I drunk one before the compulsory ‘salute/cheers/here’s lookin up your old address’ so I had to pour the next round for everyone. Very convivial and very friendly and absolutely refused to ... read more
And the obligatory raki, or two.
My new besties.
Everything looks good here!

Europe » Greece » Attica » Athens » Pláka September 11th 2023

It’s an early start as we make our way back to Athens where we’ll be staying overnight before beginning the long haul back towards Oz. As far as we can tell there are hardly any flat pieces of land anywhere on Kalymnos. We’re flying to Athens which has got us a bit curious about where they might have managed to build the island’s airport. But no problem there it seems, they’ve just cut the side out of the top of one of the hills. We’re not used to getting stunning views from airports, but that’s exactly what we’ve got here. We must be up on one of the highest points on the island and we’ve got an excellent panorama down over the port and across towards the southern coast. The sunrise is spectacular. Now we’ve just ... read more

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 10th 2023

Today’s the last full day of the art tour, which is making us both feel very sad. But what’s even sadder is not being able to enjoy it with the rest of the Rembrandts. Issy’s almost back to 100%, but we’re still feeling just slightly nervous about passing on the dreaded virus to others in the group. We decide to stay put while they head off on a boat to produce yet more masterpieces at a small garden over on the other side of Telendos Island. We spend the morning in the now familiar confines of our COVID isolation balcony. My itchy feet eventually need scratching so I head off for a wander. First up is the village harbour which is well populated with cute little fishing boats. The road around the waterfront is a tad ... read more
Myrties harbour
Myrties harbour and Telendos
Myrties

Europe » Greece » Crete » Adelianos Kampos September 9th 2023

Don’t bet we are at the location mentioned above. The internet is slow and intermittent here so I dare not check. We are close to Askifou and obviously still on Crete which is all you probably need to know. Found gyros last night. Still surprised we don’t see it more frequently and still surprised how relatively cheap it is. We pay about half the price of any other ‘main course’, still get chips with it (everywhere we have had gyros with chips in it!) and we always enjoy them. Again made the trek to breakfast and yes I still think it’s a bit weird. It’s not like it’s an impressive breakfast either. There are some hard boiled eggs but nothing else is cooked, there’s no cereal of any description, no pastries and only a couple of ... read more
Ready despite the weather.
Little church among the gum trees.
At least it’s easy to follow!

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 9th 2023

Issy seems to be improving by the day, and I think cabin fever may well now have overtaken COVID as the biggest threat to her sanity, if not her health. The Rembrandts will apparently be spending the day “painting from a taverna on a stunning fjord” at Vathy on the other side of the island. We’re probably still too contagious to risk sitting in a bus with them, but I’m sure they‘ll produce some suitably realistic artwork to show us where they’ve been. It’s quite nice sitting up here on our balcony, or it would be if it wasn’t for the smell. It seems that the sewer at the hotel next door’s blocked, and a truck’s turned up to try to clear it out. Sewer problems are apparently almost a way of life in Greece. We ... read more
Pothia
Masouri Beach
Pothia waterfront

Europe » Greece » Crete » Vamos September 8th 2023

We’re walking again. That’s good because less can go wrong when really your well being and comfort are in your own hands. The official start of the trail, and a use that term loosely, is a the village information center. The centre appears to be a front for a couple of hotels and enterprises in the village but that is sort of irrelevant to us. We went there then immediately started to follow the exhaustive set of directions I received from the walking company. There are turn by turn directions meaning in the villages there may be instructions each 10m or so! Over the 13 km today the directions proved very good. Bit frustrating continuously checking the iPad but still effective. The trail is not a circular track, like the Juliana Trail or even a continuous ... read more
Google to check path, terrain, features and touristy stuff.
One of several pages of directions for today.
In Vamos. I’m hoping it’s a kids cubby, it’s even got a bell tower.

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 8th 2023

So here we both are, stuck in COVID isolation in our hotel suite. Issy’s thankfully feeling a bit better today, but not really well enough to go anywhere. And anyway, I think she still needs to be avoiding crowds for a day or so yet, and then only with a mask for a few days after that. So what to write about when by far the most exciting event for the day was a thrilling trip to the supermarket, with mask on of course, to stock up on a few essential supplies. Actually that wasn’t the day’s most exciting event, but more about that later. My throng of faithful subscribers, all five of you, will be pleased to know that in order to fill in a few hours I’ve formulated a new law. Some other bored ... read more
The hotel bar
The COVID isolation balcony

Europe » Greece » Crete » Vamos September 7th 2023

So close to DISASTER. Mr Silly left his iPad at the restaurant of our hotel and was happily on the way to the airport when the driver received a call. Well we turned back, the hotel host drove towards us, we met in the middle and everything was fine (apart from losing 5 minutes). But the scary thought of how close this was to a disaster will haunt me for a while. As it was we were told the drive would be 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes but it took 3 hours and the only hold up was with iPad and really that was less than 10 tops. We stopped for photos at the Corinth Canal and for driver coffee and pastries so I don’t know if he was unaware of the time schedule ... read more
Us.
Corinth Canal.
Corinth Canal. (Opposite direction)

Europe » Greece » South Aegean » Kalymnos September 7th 2023

Issy wasn’t at all well for most of yesterday and she’s woken up feeling just as bad if not worse, which sucks for her. A cold‘s been circulating through the group, and it looks like it’s made its way through to my beloved. Her face and throat hurt, so she thinks she‘s also got sinusitis or tonsillitis. We’d heard that you could get antibiotics over the counter in Greece, but the hotel receptionist tells us that they shut off that little loophole a few years back. So it looks like we’re off to the island’s hospital. We saw this in the dark on the way here the other night, and were told that the Italians built it when they occupied Kalymnos during the Second World War. I hope someone‘s got around to updating it at some ... read more
Telendos




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