Japan Off the Beaten Track - May 2024

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Japan is truly timeless, a place where ancient traditions fuse with modern life, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. Japan may be small, but with its captivating blend of tradition and modernity – and bustling cities and stunning countryside – it offers a mighty experience to visitors. No matter when you choose to visit, I promise, you'll be on the trip of a lifetime here. In spring, the blossoming of the sakura (cherry blossom trees) creates a beautiful natural display that transforms the country into a vision in pink, luring travelers from all over the globe. Fall ushers in the resplendent koyo(autumn foliage) season, while summer opens the two-month window for summiting Mt Fuji. Winter is a great time for skiers, as Japan’s slopes are dusted with some of the finest powder on the planet. Whether you’re looking to dive into the crowded streets of downtown Tokyo or find Zen-like peace amongst tree-cloaked mountains, there’s a season that’s right for you in this wonderous country. May is the Goldilocks Zone of the Japanese calendar. Neither too hot nor too cold, it's the perfect time to take a trip and just about everyone does. The Golden Week holiday from the end of April to the beginning of May marks the peak of this period with packed trains and hotels being the norm.



Know Before You Go:


Golden Week holiday period is between late April and early May and is one of Japan's busiest travel periods.With major tourist destinations packed, May is a good time to explore lower-key options.The giant carp streamers you can see around rural Japan this month are koinobori, traditional decorations for Children's Day (May 5).The calmer second half of May is better for traveling and a good chance to see Japan before the rainy season in June.


I start my latest adventure by landing at Haneda, Yokohama’s international airport – give me this one any day of the week, compared to Tokyo’s Narita – navigation is a breeze. I deeply admire Japan for two major reasons: dirt cheap airport shuttle transportation and electronic toilets! First, for those who are happy to spend up to $150+ for a private airport to hotel transfer, the following is definitely not for you. But for those travelers who, like me, are so tight they squeak – pay attention! Most of all international flights arrive at Haneda’s terminal 3. Exiting customs into the main terminal, the tourist information desk is dead ahead. To the left against the wall, is the bus ticket counter staffed with extremely helpful multi-lingual customer service agents. All you do is give your hotel name, the agent looks it up, calculates your fare and issues your ticket. For the princely sum of 800 yen ($5.12) I had my ticket in hand displaying the correct bus stop number and the time of the next bus to my destination. All this completed within 15 minutes of my clearing customs – talk about efficient. These buses are modern, air conditioned, spotlessly clean, and comfortable coaches, and did I mention all this also includes free Wifi? Uniformed staff at each bus stop load your luggage (yes, they all speak English) and for the next 45 minutes, I relaxed and enjoyed a scenic drive through Yokohama and arrived at the front door of the Hilton Yokohama – my home away from home for the next few days. This same bus service is available at Narita Airport. If this doesn’t beat a $150+ price ticket, I don’t know what does.



I have written on Tokyo and Yokohama on previous visits – this time, I’m branching out and exploring lesser-known towns to discover locations tourists rarely see. I begin with my arrival in Miyako, home to many crystal-clear blue waters, making it a perfect summer destination. Guests can beat the summer heat and enjoy basking in the sun at Miyako's beautiful Yonaha Beach. They can also do outdoor activities such as hiking the trail at Cape Higashi-Hennazaki and enjoying the ocean views on top of its lighthouse. The city also features Aragusuku Beach, a famous spot for swimming and snorkeling due to its clear waters and coral reefs. Indeed, Miyako is home to many beaches with their respective charms.



Miyako City, located on the northeastern coast of Honshu in Iwate Prefecture, was one of the northernmost cities to suffer devastating damage from the 2011 tsunami. The rising waters swept across many of the city's coastal districts, destroying homes, businesses, port facilities and a large part of the local fishing fleet. Some of the tsunami's most unforgettable videos were filmed in Miyako, depicting a huge black swell overtaking the seawall protecting the town and sweeping boats and cars and everything in its path along with it. The city is known for its beautiful coastline, especially the popular Jodogahama Beach on a scenic peninsula just north of the city center. Tourist facilities around this beach were heavily damaged, but after three years the seaside promenades have been replaced and improved and the sightseeing attractions fully reopened. This popular outdoor destination is ranked among Japan's top one hundred beaches and swimming spots and can get crowded in summer. Sightseeing boats depart from docks near the beach to explore the cliffs and a half-submerged cave along the bay, while longer cruise ships travel to scenic parts of the Sanriku Coast north of the beach.

Not a beach lover? Neither am I. Consider this alternative: the Miyako Fish Market, open from 6:30am to 5:30pm every day except Wednesdays, is packed tightly with rows of vendors selling all sorts of local fish, seafood, vegetables, and prepared foods at very reasonable prices. There is also a small section where local farmers can sell their produce directly to market visitors. Admission is free and well worth an hour or so of browsing – think of it as Japan’s answer to the Pike Place Fish Market in Seattle!

Does spelunking mean something to anyone - if so, consider Ryusendo Cave – one of Japan’s three greatest limestone caves, where you can explore the subterranean world of bats and underground lakes. Featuring a string of vivid blue and emerald-green underground lakes, it's a “must-see”. It is just outside the town of Iwaizumi and is accessible by bus from Morioka Station. As it’s located in a rather remote part of Iwate that's not well served by public transportation, the best way to get there is to take the direct JR Tohoku Bus from Morioka Station. Buses typically take about two hours and 15 minutes. If you are visiting Ryusendo Cave as a day trip, the last buses leave early, so be sure to confirm the schedule. The cave's 394’ deep underground lake is Japan's deepest, but this one unfortunately is closed to the public. Only about 4,000’ of the cave's estimated 16,404’ length has been explored. Inside Ryusendo Cave there are 8 freshwater lakes, and 3 of them are open to the public for viewing. The deepest of these is 322’. The lakes are illuminated, making the water appear a vivid and ethereal blue, allowing you to see all the way to the bottom. Gazing into the abyss of the deepest is like peering into another world. The stalactites and stalagmites that have formed throughout the cave over the eons add to its mystique, and you'll encounter extraordinary formations around every corner. One that stands out is a stalagmite that looks strikingly like Jizo, the Buddhist protector of children and travelers. These rock formations are very fragile, so touching them is strictly prohibited.



Multiple species of bat inhabit Ryusendo Cave, some of which are very rare. Usually, the bats are inactive during the day, but they occasionally make an appearance early in the morning or late in the afternoon. It's quite a surprise when a bat zips overhead but it makes a memorable story to relate.

As you enter Ryusendo Cave, you can hear fresh spring water rushing out. Much of this is bottled and sold. Its pristine and delicious water is filled with minerals, making it especially healthy. The lucky local population gets to drink it for free from the tap. If you'd like to take Ryusendo Cave water to go, its bottled spring water is a popular souvenir.



Other places of interest here include: Kitayamazaki Cliffs Observation Deck – one of the most dramatic landscapes of the Rikuchu Coast. Cliffs standing 656’ high stretch across an impressive 5 miles of coastline, affectionately referred to as the “Ocean Alps”. How about a scenic rail trip? Sanriku Railway winds its way along the spectacular Sanriku coastline. This chartered railroad offers a relaxed ride with wide picture windows providing stellar views. And of course, you must always throw in a temple or two! Try Fukusenji Temple – situated on a hillside – and is one of the most impressive in Tono. It’s a stunning complex with a five-story pagoda, surrounded by smaller temples tucked into lush foliage and pristine Japanese gardens.



Aomori City in Amori Prefecture is the northernmost prefectural capital city on Honshu, Japan's main island. This port town used to be the main ferry departure point to Hokkaido and, although it remains the main port for car ferries, the opening of the Seikan Undersea Railway Tunnel and the advent of cheap flights, have reduced ridership and many travelers now bypass the city altogether. Today Aomori is best known for its spectacular Nebuta Matsuri summer festival. Nebuta and Neputa are a type of Tanabata-related festival held in towns around Amori Prefecture. The largest of these festivals is the Nebuta Matsuri in Amori City, held every year from August 2 to 7. The highlight of the festival is the daily parade of enormous lantern floats, flanked by large taiko drums, musicians, and dancers. Local teams build the festival's two dozen floats, which are constructed of painted washi paper over a wire frame and take an entire year to design and construct. They can be up to 27' wide and 15’ tall and often depict gods, historical or mythical figures from both Japanese and Chinese culture, Kabuki actors, and characters from the popular NHK Taiga Drama historical TV series. Every night during the festival the floats are wheeled out onto the streets of downtown Aomori for a parade, except on the last day (August 7), when the parade is held in the afternoon. The floats are pushed along the street by human power, weaving back and forth, and spinning around for the crowd. Each float is accompanied by teams of taiko drummers, flute, and hand cymbals players, as well as hundreds of dancers, called haneto, who follow the procession chanting "Rassera, Rassera" while performing a dance that looks a little bit like skipping. There is lots of free seating on the ground along the nearly 2-mile-long parade route, as well as reserved seats which are available from Ticket Pia and convenience stores. Participation in the parade is encouraged, and people come from all around to join in the dancing. The only requirement is that you wear the traditional haneto dancing costume, which can be bought at grocery stores and shops around the prefecture for about 7000 yen ($44.34) or rented from rental shops around town for about 4000 yen ($25.34). The Nebuta Matsuri parade route is a 2-mile loop around central Aomori and is a five-minute walk from JR Aomori Station. Rassera Land, where the floats are stabled, is located next to the ASPM building along the waterfront, a ten-minute walk from JR Aomori Station.



The Nebuta Warasse is an interesting museum dedicated to the city's famous Nebuta Matsuri discussed above. The museum is housed in a unique building covered in red metal slats and stands along Amori’s waterfront district just north of Aomori Station. This museum attempts to capture the spirit of the festival and gives visitors a taste of its lively atmosphere, history, and traditions. Upon entering the second-floor entrance to the exhibitions, visitors are presented with the sights of the festival along a red corridor lined with images from the Nebuta Matsuri's 300-year history. Lanterns in the shape of red goldfish, another symbol of the festival, hang along the corridor where the recorded sounds of taiko drums, flutes, and voices play. Continuing further into the darkened main hall of the museum are five actual floats that were built for past festivals. Visitors can walk around the floats, which are changed out every year, and admire the craftsmanship that went into their construction. Several hands-on and cutaway displays show the underlying structure of the floats while other exhibits show how the designs have evolved over time. On weekends and holidays, there are occasional performances by "Haneto" dancers who demonstrate the unique Nebuta Matsuri dance accompanied by live music played on taiko drums and flutes. Nebuta Warasse also has a restaurant and a well-stocked museum shop selling all sorts of local souvenirs and food. Nebuta Warasse is about a five-minute walk north of JR Aomori Station. Hours are 9:00 to 19:00 (until 18:00 from September to April). Admission ends 30 minutes before closing. Closed December 31 to January 1 and August 9 to 10 and admission fees are 620 yen ($3.93)

The Sannai Maruyama Archaeological Site is the largest and one of the most complete and best-preserved villages from the Jomon Period (13,000-300 BC). Unearthed by accident while surveying land to build a baseball field, the former village once included over 700 structures and dwellings including long houses, storage structures, roads, and trash and burial pits. After the excavation and study of the site, the village was reburied with earth and several reconstructed pit dwellings, long houses and a large tower were built on top. Visitors can enter the reconstructions, some of which are quite large, as well as see a few of the original excavation sites around the grounds. Adjacent to the excavation site stands the Jomon Jiyukan which exhibits objects excavated from the area and explains about the people who lived during this period. It is also possible to try on Jomon period clothing, use tools of the era and try making handicrafts and toys. Typical food that the Sannai Maruyama villagers ate is served at a restaurant. The Sannai Maruyama Archaeological Site was registered as a World Cultural Heritage Site in 2021. It is easily visited in combination with nearby Amori Museum of Art, which was designed in a style that imitates the excavation site. The Sannai Maruyama Jomon Archaeological Site is located next to the Sannai-Maruyama-Iseki-mae bus stop, a 20-minute, 310 yen ($1.96) bus ride from Aomori Station. It is also just a 5-minute walk from the museum. Hours are 9:00 to 17:00 (until 18:00 from June through September) Admission ends 30 minutes prior to closing. Closed on the 4^th Monday of every month (or following day if Monday is a national holiday), December 30 to January 1. Admission fees are 410 yen ($3.60).

Hakodate is Hokkaido’s 3rd largest city, located at the island's southern tip. The city is best known for the spectacular views to be enjoyed from Mount Hakodate and its delicious, fresh seafood. Hakodate was among the first Japanese port cities that were opened to international trade after the country's era of isolation. As a result, the city has experienced notable influence from overseas, and the foreign population's former residential district and a Western-style fort are among its main tourist attractions. Onuma Park, a quasi-national park with beautiful, island-dotted lakes, is located only half an hour north of Hakodate and makes a nice side trip or a stop along the journey between Hakodate and Sapporo. Mount Hakodate is a 1096’ high, wooded mountain at the southern end of the peninsula on which much of central Hakodate is located. On clear days and nights, in particular, the views from the mountain are spectacular and included among Japan's three best night views alongside the views from Nagasaki’s Mount Inasa and Kobe’s Mount Rokko. Facilities at the summit, which is accessible by ropeway, bus, or car, include free observation platforms, souvenir shops, a café, and a restaurant. The Hakodateyama Ropeway departs from the Motomachi District. The ropeway's lower station can be reached in a 10-minute walk from the Jujigai tram stop (5 minutes, 210 yen ($1.37) from Hakodate Station) or by direct Hakodate Bus from Hakodate Station (10 minutes, 210 yen ($1.37), 1-2 buses/hour in the evenings). The ropeway costs 1500 yen ($9.80) for a round trip or 1000 yen ($6.53) one way. It operates every 15 minutes from 10:00am to 10pm. From late April to mid-November, there are multiple direct buses per hour between Hakodate Station and the summit of Mount Hakodate in the evenings (30 minutes, 400 yen ($2.61) one way). The buses are operated by Hakodate Bus and covered by the day passes for trams and buses. There is a toll-free road to the summit of Mount Hakodate that is open from mid-April to mid-November, however, the road gets closed to individual car traffic in the evenings between 5pm and 10pm (4pm to 9pm in October and November).

Hakodate Port was among the first Japanese ports to be opened to international trade towards the end of the feudal era. Several red brick warehouses from past trading days survive along the waterfront in the bay area of Hakodate and have been redeveloped into an atmospheric shopping, dining, and entertainment complex. Besides a typical range of trendy souvenir, fashion, interior and sweets shops, the complex also features a restaurant, a beer hall, a chapel for weddings and sightseeing cruises of the bay. The red brick warehouses are about a 15-minute walk from Hakodate Station or a 5-minute walk from the Jujigai tram stop (5 minutes, 210 yen ($1.37) from Hakodate Station). The hours are 9:30am to 7pm for the shops, and 11:30am to 9:30pm for the restaurants and both are open every day.

The harbor of Hakodate was one of the first to be opened to foreign trade in 1854 and as a result, many traders from Russia, China and Western countries moved to Hakodate. Motomachi, at the foot of Mount Hakodate, became a district favored among the new foreign residents. Many foreign-looking buildings remain in the area today. Among the most famous are the Russian Orthodox Church, the Old British Consulate, the Chinese Memorial Hall, the prefectural government's former branch office building and the old Hakodate Public Hall. The Motomachi district is situated at the foot of Mount Hakodate and is easily accessed from Hakodate Station in a 5-minute tram ride or a 20-minute walk.

Sapporo ("important river flowing through a plain" in the Ainu language) is the capital of Hokkaido and Japan's 5^th largest city. Sapporo is also one of the nation's youngest major cities. In 1857, the city's population stood at just seven people. In the beginning of the Meiji Period, when the development of Hokkaido started on a large scale, Sapporo was chosen as the island's administrative center and enlarged according to the advice of foreign specialists. This city became world-famous in 1972 when the Olympic Winter Games were held there. Today, the city is well known for its ramen, beer, and the annual snow festival held in February. The Sapporo Snow Festival was started in 1950, when high school students built a few snow statues in Odori Park. It has since developed into a large, commercialized event, featuring spectacular snow and ice sculptures, and attracting huge numbers of visitors. The festival is staged on three sites: the Odori Site, Susukino Site and Tsu Dome Site.

The main site is the Odori Site in Sapporo's centrally located mile long Odori Park. The festival's famous large snow sculptures, some measuring more than 25 meters wide and 15 meters high, are exhibited there. They are lit up daily until 10pm. Besides about a dozen large snow sculptures, the Odori Site exhibits more than one hundred smaller snow statues and hosts several concerts and events, many of which use the sculptures as their stage. A good view over the Odori Site can be enjoyed from the Sapporo TV Tower at the site's eastern end. The tower has extended hours (8:30am to 10:30pm) during the festival. Admission to the top observatory costs 1000 yen (6.53). A 1500 yen ($9.80) ticket allows for a day visit and a night visit. The Susukino Site, located in and named after Sapporo's largest entertainment district, exhibits about one hundred ice sculptures. Susukino is located only one subway stop south of Odori Park. The ice sculptures are lit up daily until 11pm (until 10pm on the festival's final day). The less centrally located Tsu Dome Site is a family-oriented site with multiple snow slides, snow rafting and more snow sculptures. Inside the dome, there is a playground and some food stands. The Tsu Dome Site is open daily from 10:00am to 4pm. While the Odori and Susukino sites are in central Sapporo, the Tsu Dome Site is located outside the city center, a 15-minute walk from Sakaemachi Station along the Toho Subway Line (10 minutes, 250 yen from Sapporo Station or 15 minutes, 290 yen ($1.89) from Odori Station). There are also shuttle buses operating between Sakaemachi Station and the Tsu Dome Site for 100 yen ($.65) one way. Parking is not available near the Tsu Dome Site.

The Historic Village of Hokkaido is an open-air museum in the suburbs of Sapporo. It exhibits about 60 typical buildings from all over Hokkaido, dating from the Meiji and Taisho Periods (1868 to 1926), the era when Hokkaido's development was carried out on a large scale. There are four different sections: a town, fishing village, farm village and a mountain village.

The Hokkaido Museum documents the history and nature of Hokkaido and is located about a 10-minute walk from the open-air museum. The museum focuses on five main themes, including Ainu culture, history, and wildlife. The Historic Village of Hokkaido is in the Nopporo Forest Park outside of central Sapporo. From Sapporo Station, take a local train to Shinrin Koen Station (15 minutes, 340 yen, ($2.22) frequent departures) from where the museum and open air museum can be reached in a short bus ride (5 minutes, 210 yen, (1.37) 1-2 buses per hour) or a 20-30 minute walk. Alternatively, you can board the same bus from Shin-Sapporo Station (15 minutes). The hours for the open-air museum are 9am to 5pm (4:30pm closing October to April). Admission ends 30 minutes before closing. Closed on Mondays from October to April (or Tuesday is Monday is a national holiday), and December 29^th to January 3^rd. Admission is 800 yen ($5.21) (open air museum only) or a combo ticket for both for 1,200 yen ($7.82).

Susukino is Japan's largest entertainment district north of Tokyo. It is packed with stores, bars, restaurants, karaoke shops, pachinko parlors and red-light establishments (and we all know what that means, right?). Of special interest to noodle lovers is the Ramen Yokocho, a narrow lane lined with shops serving Sapporo's famous ramen.

Hokkaido is the birthplace of beer in Japan. Sapporo Beer, one of the oldest and most popular beer brands in the country, has been brewed here since 1877. The Sapporo Beer Museum was opened in 1987 in a former brewery from the Meiji Period. The museum introduces the history of beer in Japan and the process of beer making. After the exhibitions, beer tastings are available at a small fee. Alternatively, paid tours are held in Japanese that include a tasting session at the end.

Next to the museum is the Sapporo Beer Garden, which consists of a few restaurants. Among the restaurants are several atmospheric beer halls, but also the more sophisticated Garden Grill restaurant. Popular in the beer halls are all-you-can-drink beer and all-you-can-eat mutton BBQ, a popular local dish named after the great Mongolian ruler Genghis Khan (Jingisukan in Japanese). The Beer Museum can be accessed by the "Loop 88 Factory Line" bus that stops among other places at Odori Station and in front of Seibu department store near Sapporo Station (every 30 minutes, 210 yen per ride). Alternatively, it is a 25-minute walk from JR Sapporo Station or a 15-minute walk from Higashi-kuyakusho-mae Station on the Toho Subway Line.

Did You Know?

· In Japanese, the name “Japan” is Nihon or Nippon, which means “Land of the Rising Sun.”

· Japan has the third longest life expectancy in the world with men living to 81 years old and women living to almost 88 years old.

· Japan has an estimated population of 126,150,000.

· The archipelago that makes up Japan consists of 6,852 islands.

· Japan is made up of four main islands: Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu as well as a further 6,848 smaller islands and islets.

· Tokyo is the capital of Japan and its biggest city.

· There are a total of 28 Nobel Prize winners from Japan.

· Fleeing motorists in Japan are shot by police with paintballs. This technique helps them to identify the defaulters easily.

· Train stations in Japan have staff people to shove people into the trains because there are so much of passengers.

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Comments

[Archchana]

Blog entry
I found it really relatable and it's helpful to hear different perspectives on Japan Off the Beaten Track..I learned so much from reading this. Your writing style is engaging and your points are well-articulated.Keep up the great work!