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Published: March 12th 2014
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We traveled to Bagan by ferry, although I think it was a special one as there were only tourists on board. The journey took 12 hours and we cruised down the wide, brown Irrawaddy River. Some interesting routes were taken at the start of the journey as the boat manoeuvred itself back and forth across the river to avoid the sandbanks as the water is getting low. At times men were stationed at the front of the boat to test the depth of the water with poles. For the first hour or so there were buildings and many stupas visible along the riverbanks but these later gave way to flat narrow sandy foreshores running up to flat land disappearing into the distance with the occasional dwelling. On the water were a number of small craft and the occasional large cargo boat. A time to relax and for me to catch up with this blog.
When we got off the boat we were accosted by hawkers, but instead of the usual post cards and trinkets they were trying to sell us classic literature: George Orwell's ' Burmese Days' and 'The Glass Palace' by Amitav Ghosh in various languages - certainly a
first for me!!
Bagan is amazing and the richest archeological site in Burma with 3000 pagodas scattered across the Began Plain built between the 1th and 13th centuries. There were about 10,000 pagodas but legend has it that Kublai Khan destroyed them whilst ransacking the area at the end of the 13th century. Unfortunately it is another area where most of the temples are being restored in a non-UNESCO approved way.
We visited a number of the pagodas in our 2 days in Bagan, including the Shwesandaw Pagoda which we climbed up the outside for a marvellous view. An even more spectacular view at sunset was enjoyed by us from the controversial Bagan Nan Myint Tower. It is a 13 storey tower with an attached hotel built on the plain with an open sided viewing area at the top and a 360° view from the restaurant from the restaurant on the second to top floor. It is controversial because of its location in the heart of the plain and we were told that UNESCO asked that it be taken down. Despite the controvesty we all thought it was US$5 well spent.
We had another horse and trap
Irrawaddy River
Old and new, floating fish tanks with modern bridges in the background ride through the plain in areas where the bus could not travel. Bicycles and electric bicycles are available to hire and we saw many tourists site seeing that way. Bagan seems far more developed for tourism.
We visited a small lacquer ware workshop. Lacquerware does not appeal to me much as I always think it looks like plastic, but the workshop was interesting. I had not realised the framework for the items is made of bamboo and bamboo and horse tail hair for flexible items. The bamboo is slotted together with no glue used. Layers of resin are applied and dried slowly over a year. Some items are engraved. I still did not buy anything!
Several people booked to go ballooning over the plain early on our second morning in Bagan but unfortunately it was too breezy. Particularly upsetting for them was the site on the way to the airport the next day when the sky was full of balloons, we must have seen ten of them.
We returned to Yangon by plane on Yangon Airways again (their moto is 'you're safe with us'😉 and parted with three of our group who went
elsewhere for little extensions.
Back in Yangon Michelle and I visited the Bogyoke Market, previously called Scott's Market, had lunch in a cafe on the 20th floor of the Sakura Tower and then a quick visit to the National Museum (we misjudged is closing time) and of course a lovely air conditioned supermarket. Michelle and I always like to visit a supermarket on our travels as we think it gives an insight into normal life.
I flew back to the UK via Doha on Qatar Airways but did not stop this time, except for the four hours transit (should have been 1.5 hours but the incoming flight was delayed so I missed my original connection so arrived home 5 hours later than expected). Doha has some very exotic looking people transiting but I'm not cheeky enough to get out my camera, plus I'm never sure if you are allowed to take photos in an airport.
I've had a wonderful trip but it is lovely to be home too, especially as all that rain seems to have eased and the daffodils and blackthorn blossom are or in force.
Congratulations
if you have stuck with my blog to the end and thank you for taking the trouble to share my trip with me - it is a good way to avoid having to look at all my photos!!
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