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Published: September 28th 2023
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Day 22 Road Trip Udabno to Yerevan. Georgia v Armenia
Today we successfully returned our hire car after a hassle tree trip from Udabno to Tblisi. We found a big challenge in finding a way off the central dual carriage-way into Kote Afkhazi St, where the car compound was. We completed three circuits of tunnels and bridges with the sat nav talking gobbledegook most of the time. A simple 5 minute procedure turned into 25 minutes of exasperation. But we got there in the end.
The Hertz man behind the desk was particularly charming, calm and helpful. He reminded me of friend Paul Susans in looks and temperament.
The minibus back to Yerevan tackled the hairpins of Debed Canyon with an automatic gearbox: a fourteen seater Mercedes with seat belts and a driver who took only a few risks. A much happier ride than our former baptism in marshrutka travel.
We got in at 18.30. There was a deal of dispute about price with a taxi driver but he was the only on available, so we accepted his fee with a small deduction won..... Yerevan is at its most busy at
this time and he did find a clever way of getting us to the Cascade Hotel without much delay.
So, over a bottle of Yaras red wine and good food, we reflected upon the differences and similarities between Armenia and Georgia.
A very personal and unscientific summary:
Tblisi has retained more charm in the old centre managing to keep a hold of some typical buildings. And, at the same time, has some very innovative new architecture.
Yerevan centre has lost the bulk of its older charm but has a young, party city feel about its centre, with many parks and fountains.
Georgian and Armenia dogs are everywhere ........ asleep. Armenian dogs have ear tags. The only canine chum we have seen on a lead was with a woman at the border who held a lap dog which had its own passport. (Photo had a very good likeness, but I was suspicious about the paw print signature).
We had a theory that there were no cats or pigeons in Armenia, but it’s shaky and unproven.....
Georgia is less polite than
Armenia. But we haven’t been threatened or even approached in either country (.... one Ukrainian in Tblisi who wasn’t persistent).
Georgia has graffiti, Armenia does not.
Georgia’s roads are much better than Armenia’s but the latter’s terrain is much more mountainous and rugged except for the glacial plain around Adanezour. Georgia’s cars are newer and in better condition, Armenia has a lot of old Ladas, still puffing away.
Pollution is a problem. But hybrid Toyotas seem popular in Tblisi.
Weddings are announced by processions of cars honking loudly in both countries.
Armenia has a catalogue of large old industrial structures: concrete shells which blight the rural landscape.
Armenia has a standard pink building stone block used instead of a brieze block in construction.
Armenia wine is as good as Georgian wine, as good as French or any other wine, and it’s cheaper, as are the restaurants. On the whole Georgia is more costly.
The two cuisines overlap and the invasion European/America/ Asia culture (pizzas, burgers, tacos, sushi) results in a international Gastro Pub menu approach (especially in Yerevan).
Monasteries
& Churches always have free admission in both countries. Tblisi’s museums charge substantial entrance fees.
Georgia is in dispute with Russia in the Caucasian mountains........ there’s a lot of anti Russia graffiti in Tblisi. It has allied itself with the EU wherever possible (many EU flags alongside the Georgian flag outside government buildings) although there is a faction within their democracy leaning towards Russia.
Armenia is in dispute with Azerbaijan and Turkey, and the former foe has become aggressive whilst we’ve been here.
Armenia’s Khachkar vertical standing stones are not a big thing in Georgia but a parallel to Celtic Knot design in stone carving is evident in both traditions.
Both countries have particular alphabets different to each other and other countries. Russian language is still useful when talking to people over 50 years (if you’re Marion) but not with the younger generation who use English as second language.
We have heard very little live folk or religious music on this trip in both countries...... on the street in Yerevan there is some busking but mostly with mini PA systems replicating local pop.
Contemporary music played
in bars and marshrutkas includes Rap, Europop and some Folk Fusion, in their own language.
Both countries are highly recommended!
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