Following the Flight of The Earls - San Pietro in Montorio. End of the road.

---

After a lovely cup of Italian coffee, I walked the last few kilometres to the church of San Pietro In Montorio where the Earls are buried.

It was surprisingly moving seeing their memorials. I found Hugh O'Neill's memorial easily enough. However, I couldn't find the one to Rory O'Donnell despite searching all the aisles of the small church. Fortunately the Parish Priest was in the church at the time. He was quite knowlegeable about the Earls. When I asked where Rory O'Donnell was buried he rolled back the blue carpet in front of the altar to reveal both his and Hugh O'Neill Jnr's memorials. They both died quite soon after arriving in Rome. Their deaths and funerals occurred within the time frame covered by Tadhg O'Cianain in The Flight of The Earls.

The Earls arrived in Rome eight months after leaving Rathmullan. It took me six weeks cycling (and a train or two). For me, it was really interesting following the route of such a trip that so few people outside Ireland know about. It was fascinating seeing the landscapes they travelled through. I also learned a little about the subsequent history of the places they travelled through, particurlarly where some of the battles of WWI and WWII took place.

It really made me recognise two aspects of the landscape. Firstly, the topography and the forces that shaped it (I did a geography A-level back in the day) and the history that occurred on that stage. This trip wasn't so much about the wildlife as the wild lives of our ancestors. I now have loads of wee questions about the Flight. I'll have to look up some of the literature on The Flight to see if there are any answers.

Anyway, the memorials in this small church in Rome about one kilometre from Vatican City represents the end of a major chapter in Irish history which lead to the subsequent 400 years of turmoil. And it's the end of my cycle adventure. Unlike the Earls, I get to go home to Ireland.

After leaving the church I paid a quick visit to St Peter's Sq and then walked back to my hostel via The Colosseum, stopping off for a wee celebratory pint on the way. This was only my second visit to Rome. The last was as a student on an inter rail ticket (which is how I intend to travel home) and I visited both these places, so I thought it would be nice to see them again. Plus I'm sure the Earls visited them.

---

Photos

Church of San Pietro in Montorio.
The two earls, Hugh O'Neill and Rory O'Donnell are both buried in this church. As is Hugh O'Neill's son and heir, also called Hugh. I think quite a few other Irish emigrees are buried here as well.

Memorial to Hugh O'Neill.
He died in 1616. He never made it back to Ireland, nor to Spain.

Interior of San Pietro in Montorio.
Memorial to Hugh O'Neill Jnr on the left and Rory O'Donnell on the right.
They both died shortly after arriving in Rome. Their funerals are described in The Flight of The Earls.