Into the cultural heartland
October 5th 2006 My alarm goes off at seven in the morning. Drifting out from sleep my first conscious thought is that I don't want to get up. I think about the joys of a cold shower on the freezing floor tiles and find the concept quite easy to resist. Dorji is still snoring and I ask Tshering what the weather looks like. He pulls the curtain to the side and a gloomy grey light shoots into the room. Marvellous, i
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