We set off to the north of Muscat this morning. Our first stop was a fish market. We’d carefully made sure we had our walking boots on, in anticipation of fishy water and entrails flowing across the floor, but this were a spotlessly clean, modern market like none we’d ever seen before, with a man mopping any small spillages the moment they happened. There was the usual collection of skinny cats gathered outside in anticipation of scraps. Inside, fish were on sale at one end, while at the other end you could, if required, take your newly acquired purchase and get it gutted and chopped to order. Hisham led us out to the back of the building, onto an empty jetty. We wondered why, when he suddenly pointed to a large turtle swimming up. There were
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