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Published: October 15th 2006
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Smart Boys
The name of the boat says it all! From the Serengeti and Crater we headed towards Dar es Salaam, stopping halfway at a gorgeous campsite in the middle of nowhere, surround by fantastic red mountains. We not only got to upgrade to a room for a few dollars, but had a swimming pool and tennis court! Had a little underwater swimming contest with Scott, and only after he whipped my arse did I find out he was a free diver… bastard!.
Our campsite in Dar es Salaam was awesome, right on the beach. We arrived early for once and actually had some time to chill out. Of course, everyone stripped off and headed straight for the ocean. Sharon and Kurt got jiggy with some jellyfish, but the rest of us were unscathed. I got to see my first bluebottle, which promptly signalled the end of the swim.
We got stuck in traffic for the ferry and had to grab all our bags off the truck and walk… quite an adventure joining the locals on the street. On the two hour ferry ride across to Zanzibar, I got to watch a really dodgy version of Around the World in 80 days (a Jackie Chan film) while Sharon slept
Camping on the beach in Dar es Salaam
Falling asleep to the sound of crashing waves the whole journey away. If there was an Olympic Sleeping Championship she would win it for sure!
Once on Zanzibar we bid farewell to the group and headed for our little spot of Paradise. (Zanzibar was roughly halfway through our trip, and we figured we’d earnt a bit of luxury after all our camping and 5am starts). The Mbweni Ruins Hotel did not disappoint. The room was gorgeous, with soft green drapes, and a massive 4-poster bed, which was thoughtfully turned down for us each night and chocolates left for us. From our balcony, the view past the lush green palm leaves was of the hotel pool and just past that a secluded little beach. It was a massive upgrade from the comforts of our tent, and a welcome break from being in a group, being in a tent and being on the road.
We didn’t venture out of the hotel grounds for the 3 nights we were there. With only 12 rooms, we were assured of privacy, and most of the time we were the only people present on the private beach or by the pool. The restaurant served excellent seafood (which Zanzibar is famous for) and
A real bed at Mbweni Ruins Hotel
This beats a thermarest any day! every evening we watched the sun set over the ocean from the decking. Could life get any better?
The tide on Zanzibar goes out really far, and Sharon likes to explore, bringing back little crabs and other sea creatures for me to see. It is so peaceful to sit on the beach and watch all the dhows - traditional fishing boats - dart across the blue waters and groups of locals collecting seaweed from the newly exposed sand.
Leaving our idyll on the fourth morning, we spent a few hours shopping in Stone Town. We didn’t really like it very much. It was dirty, oppressive and pushy. Everywhere we went, someone was trying to talk to you and take you somewhere to sell you something. We considered catching a Dala-Dala (the local “buses” on the island) but were convinced by one of our “new friends” to catch a ride in his brother-in-law’s minibus. Once we agreed to this we were not given a chance to change our mind, as he followed us around like a shadow, even trying to sit with us while eating lunch. The minibus took about 90 minutes to get to Nungwi, one of the
Our very own balcony
Aaah! This is more like it... northern beaches on Zanzibar, and on the way the skies opened up and drenched all the packed Dala-Dalas we saw, making us very happy with our decision to forego that experience.
Up north we met up with the rest of our group, a lot of them very sunburnt from snorkelling the day before. The beaches there were stunning, with fine white sand and aqua water. We shared sundowners at a bar pumping out Queen song after Queen song. Apparently Freddie Mercury was born on Zanzibar.
It was good to be back with everyone, especially our crazy American friends. After a farewell group dinner (half the group was finishing up in Zanzibar) we headed over to a bar and had our latest night so far, swinging the night away on a hanging bench and hammocks on the beach under a starry night-sky. This was in a tree-house style bar with far too many delicious cocktails. Waking up the next morning was not going to be fun.
With a smaller group we continued on our journey through Tanzania, spending our last night in “The Stables” - the best campsite so far. This is what every site should aspire to!
Tangawizi with a view
Tangawizi - Ginger Beer to you non-Africans - became the staple of our group. Here Sharon enjoys it from our hotel restaurant. Scorching hot showers, pristine long-drop toilets that smelled as fresh as the air around us, and beautiful, cute and (most importantly) clean rooms with beds and a duvet. Rooms were complete with windows, curtains, flowers and a burning bedside lantern. We didn’t have electricity, but this place put all others to shame. And all this for a $12 upgrade… Wow!
Our night was completed in the campsite bar, built in a hut and filled with cushions, stools and braziers full of burning coals. They served the most delicious amarula hot chocolates which sent everyone to bed early. A fine farewell to Tanzania.
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jamie
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hey you guys, looks like you are having a really amazing time, i think i really need to go on a holiday like this and just enjoy what this earth has to offer us!!! jealous jealous jealous!!! enjoy, love jamie (workin hard in CT )