Many lakes with just one name, granitic peaks and an orca whale kill

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On day 7 we woke up to a foggy cold morning, we could barely see the glacier in front of us, after breaking camp around 10am we started heading down to the glacier lake below our campsite, went around it and followed it until we are face to face with the glacier, it was beautiful, Kata has no plans of walking over it as we have no crampons so we tried to find a way to get around it, took awhile, scrambling on scree and big boulders, it was a tough 1st 2 hours, we took a break but it got colder so we hurried and started walking again, our aim is to get closer to the Qorlotoq lakes, there are several of them and are tagged with numbers, lake # 1, 3, etc. We walked for maybe 9 hours, I am really exhausted going up and down ridges, luckily the weather cleared up a little when we camped at a small green flat area in between streams. After setting our tents, Tim and I went down a nearby lake to fish, as I try my fishing near the river mouth, Tim was tip toeing on the other side trying to find fish, we gave up as none are biting, we tried our luck atop a huge boulder and Tim saw small fishes nibbling, at least we know they are here, but the fish we attracted were smaller than our hook!

The next morning the sun was out, from the valley we were camped we made our way to the lake, one of the Qorlotoqs, we posed for half hour at the mouth of the river to let Tim have a last try at fishing, no luck once again, we continued on climbing up a ridge, we just follow the length of the lake but we have to climb up as the path below is tricky, we gazed upon another lake at the top of the ridge but soon realized it was the same lake! So GPS out, Kata planned another route, we found it but another stream crossing, we tip toed trying to avoid getting our feet wet, we were all over the place, everyone trying different spots to cross, eventually we all met up at one place and walked the biggest of the lakes, goal is to get to the end of it which took most of the day, I keep muttering to myself when is this lake gonna end! I felt soreness on both my ankles, Karen and Pascal were way behind us, turns out they had benn picking fresh mushrooms from the trail, they have bags and bags full of it! My only concern was if they knew it was edible, apparently so as the French team swear by it as well, dinner tonite then. The day started sunny then now it's cloudy as we pass over tall peaks, the wind blows hard and we need to find shelter soon, after a few snow walking on the other side of a cliff we found a nice nook to camp to get away from the howling wind, we set up camp and Karen and Pascal started preparing the mushrooms, I sat with Kata having tea and dried Icelandic fish, she puts butter on it, apparently that is the way Icelandic people eat it! I would prefer beer to go along with it.

While having our dinner feast of mushrooms and pasta, suddenly a stranger comes along in shorts and a jacket, this dude was a researcher/scientist studying the glaciers, he is on his way back to town(Tasiilaq) when he spotted us, curious he wanted to know where we are from and what are we doing here. We offered him some mushrooms with crackers for a snack as he looks famished, he will go running back to town about 15 kms away, the girls in our group were oggling him, much to the annoyance of the fellas, he maybe a looker but come on, does he have to be wearing a that revealing short pants thing? He probably din not think he would meet a soul in this area, so we runs in his underwear... very windy night, my plan of going up a ridge behind us in the morning to take fotos never materialized as I chose to sleep in. This is our last bush camping, from here on we will stay in hostels.

Next destination is the town of Tasiilaq, the capital of eastern Greenland, we made our way about 9am, went past a nice waterfall then we can see the town of Tasiilaq from a distance, we took a lunch break near the water where icebergs were floating, there was no wind and so mosquitoes and flies feasted on us, we all improvised on how to cover our faces and get away from these suckers. It was cloudy and the threat of rain looms so we went on, occasionally we will see locals with fishing poles, it's a Sunday so some are making picnic, on the lakeside, there is a proper trail so we just follow it until we have to cross a river, hopefully our last. We need not to take them boots off the rapid is strong and in between boulders in the river are wooden crates that they improvised as bridges, but half of it is in the water, I asked JJ behind me if he is confident we can cross it as the rest is already on the other side, he nodded, we helped each other out, I gave him my walking poles so I can use my hands to secure myself onto the boulders, but one step on the crate and I slipped, left hip side in the water, Kata screamed, I was embarrased but instinct was to check my camer which was in my right pocket, it's dry, so I took my time getting up, I am all wet from the waist down but still managed to cross without any further incident, no injuries.

I was cold from then on, shoes full of water, we have an hour more to town, somehow my pants started to dry as we walk even if it was drizzling, the wind helped. As we near town we saw the huskies all chained and in the outskirts of town, civilization at last!, we walked to find our accomodation, Kata arranged for all of us to stay in a house owned by a Danish guy named Lars, he runs an excursion company connected to Iceland Mountain Guide, we have to wait for the wife to bring in the key,we were all cold and wet from the rain, the good thing about falling in the river is I was given the privilege of showering first! My first in 10 days! It took me a good half hour just to clean myself up. The house was really great, with heat, hot water, washing machine, great kitchen, nice rooms, the boys shared the attic room, all our mess spread about everywhere, we try and sort out our things as we need to do laundry later. JJ and Pascal joined me in the living room to look at great photo albums about Greenland, when Time finished in the shower I fed the washing machine with all our nasty clothes, Karen put some dishwashing soap to make it smell"nicer". Over a cup of tea and dried fish with butter we reminisced about the our days in the wild and how greatful we are to make it back unharmed.

Kata is preparing a great dinner, I helped her out cut up the veggies as she poach some halibut steaks and a very delicious sauce to go with it. We had a great night's sleep would have been better if it gets dark at all during the night, the next morning it was cold but sunny, after a quick breakfast we headed to climb Somandsfjell peak wchich is just behind the town, about 600 meters high. The climb was not ad but the mountain is rocky, lots of sscree, loose rocks so you have to pay attention where you put your feet down. Crossed a few ice patches as well. The view from the top is magnificent, icebergs float in the bay, the town of Tasiilaq looks puny from the top, a number of speed boats ply about their routes from Kulusuk. We started heading down after a coupl hours and had lunch halfway down, the mozzies are all over us as we try to eat our lunch sheltered from the wind. It's either mozzies or wind, choose the lesser of two evils..

We descended down to the Valley of the flowers, not much left but what is there is colorful and nice, violets, reds and pinks. After a wobbly bridge on a river crosing we followed a path that led us back to town past the local cemetery. We came across kids playing soccer and kids playing in the playground at school break. We decided to head to the souvenir shop then got bored so we headed to the museum where a very animated Danish guy told us some stories about life in Tasiilaq, history and the status of Greenlanders and their association with Denmark, he was very captivating in telling the stories but he took an ice cream break and gave us the key to the winter house where we saw seal skins separating rooms in a small space where up to 5 families share in the winter, blubber oil keeps the candle lit and keeps them warm. Then back up again to the museum until closing time, some people arrived to show the Danish dude an old kayak that he might be interested in putting up in the museum so we have to scoot. We bought beer and snacks at the grocery shop before heading home for dinner. Slept under the chorus of snores but did not bother me one bit as I was one of them.

Gloomy morning the next day as we prepare to leave for Kulusuk, we took a speed boat, only about half hour ride, as we approached the harbor at Kulusuk we saw a gathering of locals and a dead orca whale! They are processing the kill, the Danish police was also there, so after we unloaded our things and dropped our bags at the Kulusuk hostel,we literally ran to the site and watch how the locals harvest their kill. Tim, Pascal, JJ and Kata ran with me to get there. The man who caught the mammal seems very proud of his catch, I heard bits and pieces from Kata and also from the super nice Danish scientists who were also there to collect samples about the history of orca whale hunting in the area. Apparently it's only been 3 years since the locals at Kulusuk started hunting orca with success, the whales are extremely difficult to catch as they are very fast swimmers, so the locals have to develop a tactic and they got better as the years went on. They hunt whales only in the summer and only what they need to feed themselves, not like commercial fishing, their main source of protein is from the sea and with tough winters they try and make do of what they can catch in the peak months.

Seems like the whole neighborhood is there to get their share, some actually take a snip of some parts and eat it sashimi style, some make big cuts and put it in plastic bags, it is a red meat, very red. The smell is overpowering, not stinky but gamey if that is the right word for it, hours later I can still smell it in my clothes. We were given a few pieces for free for us to try orca steak meat for dinner, Johanna, the caretaker of the hostel said it is delicious so we decided to give it a try. Danish police came to monger, It's not really illegal for the locals to hunt them, and like I said Danish scientists also there taking samlples from different parts of the whale. They also told me they wanted to take samples from the locals consuming the orca, to see if there are significant health risks, after all orcas are on top of the food chain and so one of the most contaminated animals on the planet, lead, mercury, you name it, even worse than polar bears we were told.

It was cloudy and is getting colder, so after maybe couple hours gawking at the site we headed back to the hostel and we took a nap. The itinerary was supposed to be a trek towards Cap Dan but forget it, once we saw the orca kill we knew no one is hiking anywhere, so now it's just chill out day. In the afternoon after the nap the French boys decided to go for a walk and do little hikes around town, I tagged along though it was raining we kept on, Karen came with us but she parted with us later so she can get back to town in time for the museum opening, Pascal and I were busy picking wild blueberries off the bushes on the path, they were really good. Rain started to get intense, we headed back to town oly for Tim to realize his scarf was missing so we headed back while he came to the rocky hills to try and find it, later Pascal told me we should have not left Tim on his own since the terrain is tricky so we kind of headed back going around the path, we saw Tim coming back looking disappointed, he lost his favorite scarf, a few casualties on this trip, I lost a shoe, Pascal's shoes gave up on him and is to be retired. Luckily no major injuries only sore ankles, and ribs, JJ slipped on one of the rocky trails and bruised it. Our last night in Greenland was celebrated by having a pancake for Tim's birthday, the cake adorned with Greenlandic flags.

The next day one last walk to the beach to see what have become of the orca whale carcass, some guy is still working on it, cutting pieces maybe to feed the dogs, they left it there at high tide and I was surprised no polar bear came to claim it. Rain came so we came back for lunch at the hostel then started to head out to the airport, half hour walk, it rained hard and with my pack on my back, all I am hoping for is that it stays dry inside. Karen amused us with her stories about guiding kayak trips and Alaska hikes, made the walk shorter. At the crowded airport we bought last minute souvenirs, there is free tea/coffee and a few cookies, like someone's living room really rather than a terminal. We left on time we said our goodbyes to Greenland and we are off to Reykjavik, a wonderful trip I hope to be back again, this time in the south.

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Photos

Day 10
Valley of the flowers

Day 11
witnessing an orca whale kill being processed

Day 7
going down one of the many Qorlotoq lakes

Day 7
granite rocks that we have to walk on

Day 7
campsite Day 7

Day 8
camp

Comments

[Dancing Dave]

LIKE A FAIRY TALE
Evokes exciting thoughts of entering a fairy tale...love it

[Touristang-pinoy]

Your blogs were really informative. I've never been to most of those places and it is nice to learn about them here. Great travels and adventures and nice photography.