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Published: March 31st 2013
Up Early and Out Into the Cold
Today, Christmas Day, we decided to visit the Basilica of the Sacred Heart or the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur de Montmartre its actual French name. Again, thank goodness for subways as it was a long way from our hotel to the basilica. Though it might be possible to take a bus a simple, easily understood subway system is just right for a first time visitor.
Christmas Morning
It was a cold morning. Even on the subway it was chilly. Because of the holiday it was not surprising that there were few passengers and no crush of people. All of us were bundled up and a fair percentage of the riders looked like they would prefer to still be asleep. I noticed that some of the passengers held small Christmas presents in their laps. Checking over passengers is always interesting and this morning was no different. The manner of dress ranged from the very casual to the chic. A few children, in the company of adults, were on board. I assumed they were off to see their grandparents or friends and I hoped they all were to have wonderful days.
The best news for the trip was we did not have to change from one subway line to another. My guess is it still it took at least forty minutes to arrive at Anvers where we got off the subway. The Paris subway system is extensive with numerous lines going to all parts of the city. I remember there were over twenty stops from our hotel to the train station, the Gare de l'Est, where we had entered Paris and it took several more stops beyond there to arrive at Anvers.
We joined others leaving the station and walked several blocks and then turned to our right to climb the hill to the church. This was a narrow street filled with tourist-trap shops. Many, if not all the shops were already open and the normal stocking hats, T shirts, nick-nacks, pencils, pens, pashimas and a while host of other small items were for sale. The never-far-away Paris pastry and coffee shops were busy - expresso, cafe lattes, Cappuccinos, just to name a few, were being brewed and sold to eager morning customers. We had already eaten a large breakfast at our hotel and it
was too early for a mid-morning snack. But it was NOT too early for Nancy to do a little bit of shopping. We aren't much for souvenirs but the wind was blowing quite strongly on this chilly morning and she had lost her black pashmina somewhere on the trip. She spotted a pashmina in one of the shops that was a rather good match for her wine colored down coat. It had woven into it pictures of the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Troimph, Basilique du Sacré-Coeur and Notre Dame as well as the word Paris. Well, three were spots we had already visited and the fourth was sitting on top of the hill in front of us so she bought it!
At the last cross street before entering the basilica grounds, men were walking around selling pocketbooks, purses, stockings, hats and many other items. All were African. My impression is that life is not easy and opportunities are few for African immigrants in Paris. They were not aggressive. I have seen aggressive vendors in other countries so it was pleasant to see these men offering their wares and not making people uncomfortable.
Up a Steep
Hill
It is a steep climb to the basilica. After all it sits on the highest point in Paris. It is also the site where the patron saint of Paris, St. Denis, was beheaded. Tradition also says that St. Denis picked up his head and walked away, walking six miles, preaching all the way. Please pardon me if I am just a bit skeptical about the walking and preaching.
The visitor has the option of climbing a set of steps all the way from the street or of climbing an incline part of the way and then climbing steps the rest of the way. The third choice is to take the funicular that takes people up the steep hill to the level of the church. The funicular did not seem to be operating on Christmas day. I expect even if it had been in operation we would have walked up the hill. The views as we walked up were quite nice and we were surprised to find flowers still in bloom at several points along the way. Tough French flowers.
From the front of the church we had panoramic views of a
large portion of Paris. Indeed, the Eiffel Tower, that is miles away, is visible. To be more exact it is 7.5 kilometers between the two popular places.
Roman-Byzantine Architecture
I found the architecture very interesting, but was unsure what this style is called. To me it had somewhat of a mid-eastern look and yet not completely mid-eastern and not completely Byzantine. With the help of the Internet I found it was built in the Roman-Byzantine style. So I was not totally off in thinking there was a Byzantine influence. Nicely curving domes are beautiful to the human eye, just as arches are also beautiful.
The Interior
The interior of the basilica is beautiful. A huge mosaic dome is above the altar. Nancy and I enjoy mosaics very much. We appreciate the beauty that an artist can bring forth from pieces of colored tile which do not fade with time. Since this was Christmas day a very special mass was just starting. So, though far from home we had an opportunity to worship with others who had come early on Christmas morning. During the mass I could understand nothing that was being
Christmas Booths
Yes it was rather chilly.said. This gave me plenty of time to both worship and view the beauty of the interior. Though I try to memorize what I look at it never works well. Thank goodness for photographs that bring can bring back to memory things we have seen.
Sometimes I wonder if we humans have lost the ability to remember simply because consciously or subconsciously we realize that we can see all that is before us again through photographs.
Christmas Fairs
It seems that every city and town in Europe holds a Christmas Fair. To be more accurate, in a city like Paris, numerous Christmas Fairs. This was true in the area to one side of the basilica. Christmas booths had been set up on on the left of the basilica. Again we were met with the smells of hot drinks, crepes and other foods. The Christmas fairs in Europe are not restricted to the selling of food. Nonfood items are also always on sale. As this is a major tourist stop in Paris, there were many people milling around, talking, eating, drinking or simply walking around enjoying the place and the atmosphere. Later in the day as we
returned a harpist had set up near the Christmas booths and beautiful music flowed forth. I have seen street musicians with various instruments in other cities. This was the first time I had seen a harpist. When we turned the corner from the fair and the church and started on one of the streets on top of Montmartre, we quickly saw what is a tradition everyday in this area. Many artists were sitting there ready to draw portraits of anyone who wanted a very personal souvenir of their trip. Lots of people were posing and the art work was of a rather high quality. But it was too cold to indulge ourselves in a portrait so we hurried on.
Finally French Onion Soup
By the time we left the basilica it was about one o'clock in the afternoon and we were hungry. Nearby is a street filled with restaurants. It is a narrow street and is somewhat hazardous in that ever five minutes or so a big public bus drives down the street. It is a wise idea to stay alert, not just for the buses, but also for cars and delivery trucks. We looked around a
bit and chose a restaurant. Entering we were pointed to a table for two beside the front window. Actually this was the only open table. We sat and quickly were given menus and a basket of breads.
"We have to have French Onion Soup while in Paris," Nancy said.
I agreed and we ordered a bowl of soup and a salad each. Was it the best French Onion Soup I have very eaten? I am not sure, but it was good and welcome on a cold Christmas day. Well, I'm sure it was the best I've ever eaten. It was absolutely delicious and the salad was as good as the ones our niece Anne who lives in Philadelphia makes. In other words it was heavenly!
So interesting we can't show you any photos
After eating we began to walk down the hill when we saw something so fascinating that we forgot to get our cameras back out. A man was climbing one of the light poles and doing astonishing athletic feats. He would hold onto the pole, high above the stairs, with just one hand and twist and turn
Christmas booth
Quite an interesting design. his body in all directions. He could hold with one hand and push his body totally upside down in one moment and then hold his body out horizontally the next. All the while he was juggling a ball. Sometimes he was using his other hand and sometimes his feet and legs. He continued up and down the pole and around and around in various contortions and did not stop until he finally lost the ball. Someone threw it back up to him and he began again. We have never seen anyone with such strength and agility perform such an act. Some circus needs to hire him at a high salary to amaze!
Second-Hand Shop
After watching that amazing feat, we walked around the area curves of the hill back down to the street. We ambled around for a while before going to the subway station. Except for the tourist shops near the church almost nothing was open in the lower part of this area. We did walk around, just to see the neighborhood. Interestingly a second hand shop clothing was open. We entered, just to see what we could see and, I for one, was particularly
Christmas Booth
Another interesting design. impressed neither with the selection nor the pricing of the goods. But it was interesting. Two men were working in the store and their physical appearance made me think of slick used car salesmen. Perhaps I am wrong, but that was my impression.
By now it was getting late enough in the day that we decided it was time to return to our hotel ... and that is what we did, retracing our steps, via the subway. An unusual Christmas day. Last year we were in our hometown of Annapolis eating with friends, the year before we were in Figueres, Spain. I wonder where Christmas will find us in 2014?
More photos below.
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Bob Harrison
non-member comment
Christmas in Paris
I can only imagine how cold it was. You paint a nice verbal picture of your trip to Sacre Coeur. Along with the photos, I definitely "get the picture." Safe travels. Bob