CUBA

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Hi Everybody!

Walt and I have just returned from a fascinating trip to Cuba. We have wanted to go to Cuba for years but didn't want to chance a heavy fine. We recently heard that 10 U.S. travel companies had been granted special licenses by both U.S. and Cuba to conduct People to People Programs. The travel company takes care of the Visa, authorization letter, and specific license that is required. The program is rather strict and demands that participants follow a full educational exchange curriculum. The trip is not meant to be a vacation or leisure trip. It included very little free time --only a few hours in the evenings.

We learned a lot about the history of Cuba, the Revolution, life in Cuba under Castro, changes that have taken place in the last few years, etc. We visited organic vegetable farms, a tobacco farm, community cultural centers, museums, churches, concerts, dance studios, art studios, historical districts, city plazas, national parks, cemeteries, beach resorts, several cities and towns ,several neighborhood reclamation projects, and much more.

We found Cuba to be a peaceful country. Citizens are not allowed to own guns. We expected to see soldiers and policemen in public areas with guns but did not.

The people are not allowed to celebrate but one holiday a year. After Castro took power in 1959, he canceled all holidays. He allowed the celebration of Christmas only after Pope John Paul's visit in 1988. After taking power, Castro closed all churches. Cubans were not allowed to wear any religious symbols or display any religious items in their homes. When applying for a job or entry into college, the first question asked of the applicant would be: "Are you religious?" If the person answered, "Yes," they would not be considered. I expected Catholicism to be the national religion, but I don't think it is as widespread as Santeria, an African faith. In order for African slaves to practice their religion during the time of Spanish rule, they had to merge their gods' identities with certain Catholic saints. Over the years, the two religions have almost blended. I did not see any protestant churches in Cuba, but Walt did see one Presbyterian Church.

There is little private enterprise in Cuba. Most citizens work for government owned farms, restaurants, hotels, construction groups, schools, etc. The average income for professionals such as doctors, lawyers, architects, or dentists is less than $50 per month. The average salary in Cuba is around $12 a month. It appeared to me the best jobs were the ones that related to tourism. Our tour bus driver was a former dentist and now makes more in tips in one week than he would make in a year as a dentist. Cubans have little expendable income. For those who wish to buy a car or some property, they have to depend on relatives in other countries to help them out. Only since Raul Castro took control have citizens been allowed to sell residential property.

Cubans are given free housing, medical services, education (even college), funerals, and some food. They receive ration books and can purchase staples for very little money. Any extra food costs them more. Things are rather inexpensive for locals. For example, a local bus ride cost 5 cents. Few Cubans own cars and most walk the majority of the time. Large trucks with bench seats and old school buses travel between towns and are usually packed with people.We even saw a couple of dump trucks loaded with standing passengers. Many Cubans hitchhike between towns. They hold up a fistful of money to entice drivers to stop for them.

Cuba is the only country in the world that we have visited with two currencies. One is for the local people (Cuban National Pesos) and one for tourists (Cuban Convertible Pesos.) The exchange rate was 26 national pesos for $1 U.S. and 1 convertible peso for $1 U.S. The currency exchange booths and banks are owned by the government. They charge 13% to change your money to pesos and 13% to change it back to U.S. We were not allowed to use the national peso or our dollars, except for tips. I thought it was interesting that our tour guide collected tips from our group before every stop. It usually was just $1 U.S. or one convertible peso per person. She would then give these tips to a band, artist, restaurant for employees, guide, museum employees, etc. Before going to Cuba, we were told that we would not be able to exchange U.S. dollars there, but that was incorrect. It is true that you cannot use a U.S. credit card, ATM card, or cellphone there.

Cubans are not allowed to have internet in their homes. The only exception is for doctors. I don't think they have phones either. The only tv stations are state owned. The average Cuban has no idea what is happening in the world. They are starving for news. Some hotels have internet connections for guests, but it is expensive and slow. The only people that I saw use cellphones were tour guides. Many Cubans in cities live in Soviet style apartments that are very run down. Often 4 generations of one family will live together. In small towns and rural areas, Cubans live in squalid small one or two room homes.

Cuba produces two beers: Cristal and Bucaneer. The government also produces the soft drinks and wine. The choices are simple - red or white. In our state owned hotels, beautiful buffets awaited us at every meal. The only problem was that the food was tasteless because of a lack of seasoning and often cold.

Music was everywhere. Cubans are very talented even if they are just banging two sticks together. One night, Walt went to hear members of the Buena Vista Social Club at the National Hotel with some other members of our group. One of Walt's favorite artists, Ry Cooder, has recorded with this group.

This has to be one of our favorite trips. We encourage any of you who like to travel to put Cuba on your list. This door for travel in Cuba has only been open since January. Hopefully, Americans will continue to be allowed to travel there.

I have included 30 photos and hope that you will take the time to scroll down and look at them.

Take care,

Everette

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Photos

Che Guevara
This huge bronze wire sculpture of Che is on the Ministry of the Interior building on the Plaza of the Revolution in Havana.

Jose Marti, Cuba's Favorite National Hero
The white marble statue of Jose Marti is on the Plaza of the Revolution. This is the location where Fidel gave many of his famous speeches (some up to 6 hours long.) It is also where Pope John Paul and Pope Paul Benedict spoke to the people.

Spanish Colonial Building
A few of the beautiful buildings were being renovated.

Classic Car
For the first hour in Cuba, we couldn't stop looking at these wonderful old cars. This one was in excellent condition.

Christopher Columbus Cemetery
This was my favorite grave at the cemetery where 40-45 funerals take place daily. This mother died in childbirth and her child was buried at her feet. Legend has it that when they opened the grave to bury her father, the child had moved to her arms. People from all over the world have seen messages on tablets of marble thanking her for answering their prayers. Hundreds of these tablets are on display next to her grave.

Walt on 1945 Harley Trike
This Harley belongs to the President of the Harley Easters, a group of local guys who strive to keep the vintage Harleys in working order.

Custom Cycle Goes International
In this photo, one of the guys is holding a t-shirt from Custom Cycle in Oxford. Walt took lots of caps from his friend, Ed Cancel, and many Harley t-shirts to give to motorcyclists. They were really excited to receive these items.

Street Entertainers
These stilt dancers entertained us on the Plaza de San Franciso.

Old Car
Many of the cars looked like they had been painted by their owners. Walt looked under the hood of one old Cadillac and saw a 4 cyclinder Toyota engine.

Tile Sculptures by Artist Jose Fuster
Senor Fuster's entire property was adorned by ceramics, some as tall as his house. He has decorated his small fishing town with hundreds of pieces of unique art. His tile murals and domes decorate many of his neighbors' homes.

State Owned Ration Stores
The store employee is scooping up several pounds of rice for the customer. The second large container has sugar in it.

Cuban Customer at Ration Store
Customers have to bring their own containers for flour, sugar, rice, etc. This lady had small cloth bags similar to a pillow case and one plastic container for her sugar.

Crumbling Building
We saw lots of old buildings that were in very bad shape. I don't know if Cuba will ever have enough money to renovate them.

Saturday Afternoon Art Lessons
On this promenade near the Capitol in Havana, many artists were instructing young students. These art lessons are free of charge and a public service.

Motorcycle with Sidecar
We saw many of motorcycles with sidecars. A family is driving away on this one.

Restaurant Musicians
Musicians played for us in most restaurants. They usually had CD's for sale.

Neighborhood Cultural Center
We observed and took part in dance lessons offered at a local cultural center. Young students performed ballet. Students are offered art, dance, musical instruments, and acting lessons free of charge.

Local Artist
This artist did caricatures of Walt and me for $3 each. She drew them when we were not looking.

Tobacco Farmer
This good looking Cuban owned a large tobacco farm. He showed us how to hand roll cigars. This photo was taken inside his drying barn. You can see tobacco hanging in the background.

Vinales Valley
This area had the prettiest land that we saw in Cuba. With its mountains and fertile valley, it reminded us of New Zealand.

Comments

[John Stackhouse]

Your photos, etc.
Hi Everette! I enjoyed reading your blog and looking at the interesting photos! For me, I think it would be very depressing to live in such a place with so much oppression of individual freedoms. I'm happy that they can express themselves with music of some kinds, and other art forms, but I could not live like that. Cuba will never make enough money to lift upthe people out of endless squalor and hopefulness. The limited interaction b/t Americans and the few Cubans must be extraordinarily exciting for them. Walts gifts must have made them very happy! Like my oldest sister used to say, "That's another star in your crown". Doing such a simple thing as giving some caps and tees will influence those folks in incalculable ways! Blessings for you and yours, Everette!