Indochina 2012 (Vietnam and Cambodia) - Part 9

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The ancient capital of the great Khmer Empire, Angkor is beyond doubt one of the most magnificent wonders of the world and a site of immense archeological significance. Located in dense jungle on the hot and torpid plains of western Cambodia, its awe-inspiring temples transport me into an enchanting and mysterious world of brooding grandeur and past glory. Since the collapse of the Khmer Rouge in the early 1990s, Angkor has gradually reopened to the world. Miraculously, in a nation so devastated by war, the great temple complexes have survived remarkably unscathed.

It is 5:00am and the alarm clock goes off in my hotel room in Saigon. I am up in no time with a big smile on my face. Cambodia and Angkor are the final leg of this fantastic trip and I am very antsy. The ride to the airport, flight, and customs formalities all go pretty smoothly and I’m suddenly on my way to Siem Reap (pronounced “See-em Reep”), which literally means Siam Defeated, celebrating the 17^th-century Khmer victory over the Thai kingdom of Ayutthaya. The town is the capital of Siem Reap Province, located in northwest Cambodia, and has achieved prominence as the main base for people visiting the temples of Angkor and Roluos. My local guide’s name is Thiep and he greets me very nicely at the airport. He also tells me that we have a lot to explore over the next three days and I like it. We just drive through town and immediately head for Angkor Thom.

Remarkable in scale and architectural ingenuity, the ancient city of Angkor Thom, which means “Great City” in Khmer, was founded by King Jayavarman VII in the late 12^th century. The largest city in the Khmer Empire at one time, it is protected by a 26-ft (8-m) high wall, about 7.5 miles (12km) long, and surrounded by a wide moat. There are five gates to the city – four facing the cardinal directions and an extra one to the east side – all bearing four giant stone faces. We enter the city through the imposing South Gate, also the best-preserved of the five gateways, and we walk on an impressive causeway flanked by 154 stone statues, gods flanked on the left side and demons on the right, each carrying a giant serpent. The South Gate itself is a massive, 75-ft (23-m) high structure, surmounted by a triple tower with four gigantic stone faces facing the cardinal directions. On either side of the gate are statues of the three-headed elephant Erawan, the fabled mount of the Hindu god Indra. I am baffled by the grandeur and feel like I do not have enough eyes. There is something to see everywhere.

Within the city are several edifices, the most celebrated of which is the Bayon, a particularly atmospheric temple at the center of this historic complex. Located in the heart of Angkor Thom, the Bayon is one of the city’s most extraordinary structures, epitomizing the “lost civilization” of Angkor. This symbolic temple-mountain rises on three levels, and features 54 towers bearing more than 200 huge, yet enigmatic stone faces. We enter it through eight cruciform towers, linked by galleries that were once covered and which are gradually being restored. These galleries have some of the most striking bas-reliefs at Angkor, showcasing everyday scenes as well as images of battles, especially against the Cham. I linger in the Bayon of Angkor Thom for what seems like hours and no words can describe its beauty. My guide realizes this is a special moment for me and simply tells me to let him know when I’m ready to leave.

Next is the Baphuon, believed to be one of the grandest of Angkor’s temples. A Hindu temple, its pyramidal mountain form represents Mount Meru, the mythical home of the gods. The temple is approached via a 656-ft (200-m) long raised causeway and has four gateways decorated with elegant bas-reliefs scenes from Hindu epics. The royal temple-palace of Phimeanakas was built during the 10^th century by King Rajendravarman II and dedicated to Hinduism. It is also known as the Celestial Palace and is rectangular at the base, surrounded by a 16-ft (5-m) high wall of laterite enclosing an area of around 37 acres (15 ha.). Situated a short walk southeast is the Terrace of the Leper King, a small platform dating from the late 12^th century. Standing on top of this structure is a headless statue, known as the Leper King. Stretching over 950 ft (300 m) long from the Baphuon to the connecting Terrace of the Leper King is the Terrace of Elephants. It has three main platforms and was primarily used for royal reviews of military and other parades. We end the day with the ancient temple complex of Phnom Bakheng that sits on a steep hill that rises 220 ft (67m) above the surrounding plain and its many rice fields. Here, there are spectacular views over Angkor and the Western Barray. At dusk, the setting sun illuminates the spires of Angkor Wat with an ethereal glow. Time to head back to the hotel!

After a dip in the swimming pool and a long cold shower to refresh me from today’s extreme heat, I walk towards downtown Siem Reap. I am impressed with the variety of restaurants, boutiques, and very European flair of some of the pedestrian only streets. There is also a night market where you can buy just about anything. This part of Cambodia seems much more sophisticated. The food here too is very inexpensive with draft beer for 50 cents and cocktails for a buck. There are lots of lights everywhere, but it seems so much more laid back than Saigon. Prostitution seems to be a problem as I am approached several times and asked if I want “to have a happy time”. I keep walking and enjoying the atmosphere, and, after some convincing, I settle for an hour-long foot, neck, and shoulder massage at $5. At the end, I am told that if I come back tomorrow, I’ll get 20% off. I am loving Cambodia, Siem Reap, and Angkor so far, but it is time to go to bed if I am to enjoy the sunrise on Angkor Wat tomorrow morning.

July 5, 2012 – the much awaited day has come. I am up at 5:00am and quickly put some clothes on, then go outside of the hotel where I know a “Tuk Tuk” will be waiting. The driver is full of energy and ready to negotiate the fare to Angkor Wat. I am not in the mood and agree with his first rate. He almost seems disappointed as they always expect tough negotiations here. The sky is clear and, in no time, I am facing one of the wonders of the world. Many other photographers are waiting for the sun to rise and, when it does, all you can hear is the many “clicks”. I use a special filter and my camera renders the most perfect shot. I linger a bit longer as it is so peaceful and was well worth getting up so early. After a while, the clouds come in and by the time I am back at the hotel, it starts pouring rain, a typical morning I am told.

After a big breakfast, Thiep and I first head to Ta Prohm. Perhaps the most evocative and mysterious of all the temple structures at Angkor, Ta Prohm, which mean ancestor of Brahma, was originally a Buddhist monastery. A stone stele at the complex describes how powerful the monastery used to be. At its peak, it owned more than 3,000 villages and was maintained by 80,000 attendants. The French started their archeological restoration during the colonial period, and a deliberate attempt was made to preserve Ta Prohm in its existing condition, limiting restoration, and cutting down as little of the dense jungle as possible. As a result, the temple buildings remain smothered with the roots of giant banyan trees, preserving the atmosphere that 19^th century explorers must have experienced. Of course, there is also the famous Angelina Jolie spot where she stands in front of a temple entrance with a big tree half covering it in “Lara Croft: Tomb Raiders”.

The remote temple complex of Banteay Srei or the Citadel of Women inspires through its exquisitely detailed carving. Executed in pink sandstone, the complex was founded in the second half of the 10^th century by Hindu priests, and so, unlike most other monuments in Angkor, is not a royal temple. It is much smaller in size and different, but very beautiful in its own way. Representations of Shiva, his consort Parvati, the monkey-king Hanuman, the divine goatherd Krishna, and the demon-king Ravana are all intricately etched. On the way, I admire perfectly cultivated rice paddies and walk through a very typical Cambodian village. I buy some palm tree sugar candy from a woman who also explains to me how she makes it. It is very sweet, but quite tasty. Finally, after lunch, we head to the one and only, Angkor Wat.

The single largest religious monument in the world, Angkor Wat literally means “the City which is a Temple”. Built during the 12^th century by King Suryavarman II (1113-50), this spectacular complex was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, the Protector of Creation. The layout is based on a mandala or sacred design of the Hindu cosmos. A five-towered temple shaped like a lotus bud and representing Mount Meru, the mythical adobe of the gods and the center of the universe, stands in the middle of the complex. The outer walls represent the edge of the world, and the moat is the cosmic ocean. Especially outstanding are the intricate carvings that adorn the walls, including a 1,970-ft (600-m) panel of bas-reliefs and around 2,000 engravings of apsaras or celestial dancing girls with enigmatic smiles. Angkor Wat, unusually among Khmer temples, faces west and toward the setting sun, a symbol of death. On that side, the wide pathway leading to the temple’s main entrance affords a spectacular view of Angkor Wat’s grand exterior. Ballustrades carved in the form of nagas or serpents line both sides of the avenue. The view of the temple from the other side of the moat is stunning with its towers reflected in the still water. The afternoon light is perfect and it simply surpasses all my expectations as I take the typical postcard shot. I catch a few passing monks in their orange robes as well. Walking the fabulous grounds inside and outside the temple complex, I feel a sense of quiet accomplishment and linger there for the rest of the afternoon.

My evening is spent in Siem Reap with a delicious feast for dinner and another downpour of rain. I wander the streets some more afterwards and head back to the hotel to start packing. Tomorrow is my last day in Cambodia and my flight leaves the country at 7:05pm. I am going from Siem Reap back to Denver with stopovers in Ho Chi Minh City, Tokyo, and San Francisco. Since my layover in Tokyo is quite long, I will write the final part of my blog then and try to reflect on this trip. Until then…

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Comments

[John]

So wonderful
I am so enjoying your travel blog. I feel like I am there! And, that red dragonfly is so very pretty. It is like a jewel!