When the penny dropped... literally

Asia » Indonesia » Sulawesi » Togean Islands
April 18th 2011

Published: April 18th 2011

This all started in Gorantalo when I wanted to withdraw a few million Rupiahs for my journey through the Togeans. The ATM would only dispense me 1.25million and for some unknown reason I thought that was my limit for the day. I would later learn that I could have reinserted my card and done that same transaction several times. The next day I completed the same transaction and by my calculations, I would have enough just for my stay.

By the third last day on the Islands I still had 420 000rp left, I decided that I would like to see the Bajo Village. I had read about the people they call the Sea Gypsies and to date I hadn’t met anyone else interested in going with me to share the costs of hiring a boat to get there. I was staying on Palau Bolilanga at this stage and there were only two other guests on the island who had already seen a smaller settlement of Bajo People and weren’t interested in going with me either. The realisation now had dawned on me that if I wanted to see this stilt house village I would have pay the entire cost of a boat to get there. I was quoted 350 000rp from a young local fisherman who was available the next day provided the weather was suitable. I usually have enough stash of cash on me to bail me in a situation if need be; by hiring a boat I would knowingly be depleting my dwindling cash on hand. I reasoned to myself that I still had enough for my ferry ride to Ampana (50 000rp)and a bottle of water (20 000rp) & taxi straight to an ATM. Despite all the events that followed, visiting the Bajo People was an amazing experience & I am so glad I didn’t forfeit.

I left for Ampana at 6.30am from Bolilanga Island; needless to say the resort didn’t offer any breakfast even though it was included in the tariff. I had about 500ml of water left which I conserved till I boarded the ferry. There was an hour and a half stop over at Wakai prior to the last five hour leg of the journey to Ampana. I had not eaten so I bought a small pack of nuts leaving me with now 10 000rp. The feeling of being literally cashless is always daunting, be that in a foreign country and it is almost sickening.

Without any further adieu, 9hours later we arrived in Ampana where I found a taxi to take me straight to an ATM.
Card rejected!
I stood there staring at it at first wondering if I had keyed in something wrong. I asked the taxi driver to take me to another ATM.
Card rejected!
I stood in the ATM booth frozen while my mind was reeling in the situation I had unwittingly got myself into. My taxi driver did not speak any English so he called an older man on his mobile who explained to me that nowhere in Ampana accepts Visa Cards. Only MasterCard which I didn't have!
I was literally sick to my stomach with the thought of being in Ampana with absolutely no cash and very few people spoke English. I had also taken my last swig of water on the ferry as I saw Ampana approaching, thinking another bottle of water & a meal was on its way.

I then remembered that Paradise Resort on Palau Kadidiri was affiliated with a Hotel in Ampana called Oasis Hotel. I had met the young lady that part owns the Resort & Hotel whilst I was staying on Kadidiri. Alice travelled between the Ampana & Kadidiri frequently and I prayed that she would be there. She spoke excellent English & was very helpful on the Island, now more than ever I needed her help.
I gave the taxi driver my last 10 000rp which now left me penniless. By this stage it was 3.45pm and I was feeling very dry in the throat from not enough fluid and hungry as I had only eaten a small bag of peanuts around 7.30am that morning. The food wasn’t a real big issue to me; it was water first than money, than food.
Alice & her sister were at the Hotel and Alice recognised me straight away. Once I confessed my embarrassing situation, they set about helping me. I was completely in panic mode when they told me the closest town for me to access my money was in Poso which was 5 hours away! Funny thing though, all I could think about was water and my lack of it! If I had enough water I would have walked to the Poso regardless.
Alice & her sister organised a young man to take me to the Bus Depot to speak to driver about my situation. They organised the bus driver to take me to Poso and drop me directly at an ATM so I could pay for my fare. They gave me a 1.5L bottle of water and dinner before I left on the bus.
I arrived in Poso after a very bumpy ride (anyone who has driven on that road/track will know exactly what I am talking about) and delivered directly to an ATM. The sound of the money flipping about in the machine prior to dispensing was music to my ears. By this stage it was 9.30pm and I had been in transit since 6.30am in the morning, 15 hours in transit. By now there was a torrential downpour (of course) and everything I had on was now soaked including my backpack. I decided to lash out and get a room with hot water and a TV regardless of the cost. It had been almost two months since I had a bath with hot water and this night more than ever, I really needed one.
I strode into the Losmen Alugoro and if I could have spoke Indonesian I would have said,
“Give me your finest.”
Instead I was handed the laminated card consisting of the Hotel Room tariffs, starting at the most expensive to the most basic, top to bottom.
As I pointed to the top room price which included aircon, cable TV & hot water I was met with shake of the head and one word, “Full!”

This pattern went on through the entire laminated tariff card until my finger landed on the most budget in which case I was met with a smile and a nod.

That night as I doused myself in cold water from my mandi bath and stared at the paint peeling off the wall whilst a small swarm of mosquitoes circled around me; I actually counted my blessings at how lucky I was.

I was saved from a potentially disastrous situation!

Dedicated to the Alice & her sister who manage both the Oasis Hotel in Ampana & Kadidiri Paradise Resort on Kadidiri Island. Your generosity will not be forgotten.

When the penny dropped... literally

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