Backwater country - Kochi and Alleppey


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Asia » India » Kerala » Kochi
March 25th 2011
Published: March 25th 2011
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An AmbassadorAn AmbassadorAn Ambassador

Plenty of these around Kochi
While we hadn’t been on a boat, Kochi represented dry land. After missing our stop initially in Ernakulam and then getting back there 4 or so hours later, I for one was happy to be able to stretch my legs (even if it did mean lugging the backpack around). We found a pre paid auto stand and separated from Ilaria and Vincenzo (Italian’s we had travelled with from Kannur, having met them at Costa Malabari). 153 rupees and a bumpy 10km journey later, we eventually found our accommodation in Fort Cochin, Green Woods Bethlehem. We were gleefully welcomed by our gracious hosts Sheeba and Ashley – just as the Lonely Planet had suggested we would be. A chai each later and we settled into our room. The settling in process did involve some sort of creature (albeit unidentified), running over both mine and Zoe’s feet. The theories are that it was either a gecko or a chipmunk (Zoe thought it was furry). Anyway, our stomachs were grumbling and we’d been recommended a local place for a good feed. Off we wandered down Palace Rd and eventually came across the restaurant in question. I had a dosa and Zoe poori – cheap
Chinese fishing netsChinese fishing netsChinese fishing nets

A big contraption for little result
as chips and very good. Zoe had eyed a scarf off on the way there and stopped in on the way back to pick it up for Rs125 – not a bad effort. Bed and some world cup cricket on the TV followed soon after.

For brekky the next day we had coconut pancakes, banana and honey…..mmm! We then set out and took a quick detour to the post office, past the church in which Vasco de Gama was buried (he was later taken back to Portugal) and up to the Chinese fishing nets. While these nets are pretty impressive to watch, apparently the technique is pretty outdated/ineffective and they pretty much stay in operation to rustle some rupees out of the tourist’s pockets. By this time it was lunch and wandered to a little café and had an edible, if not inspiring western style lunch. The setting was almost what we’d get back home though and was more than pleasant. We then got our walking boots back on and trudged through the heat to Mattanchery/Jew Town. Along the way we got convinced by a shop keeper to buy some cashews at an exorbitant price. By the time we arrived (only 2km from where we had lunch), the heat had taken its toll and we were pooped. Refreshment came in the form of a mango ice block but this wasn’t enough to totally refuel. We decided to head back to the hotel but we couldn’t find a rickshaw driver that was prepared to give us a decent fare so we ended up walking back to the hotel. Shattered, an afternoon nap was inevitable. Post nap a beer was beckoning – we ended up finding a decent (read not normal Indian dingy bar) that had the cricket on. All kingfishered up, we went for dinner at a place called Dal Roti that had been recommended. We had to wait for about 15 minutes but it was worth it – the food was great.

The next day after brekky we jumped into our transport van out to the backwaters – our tour destination for the day. Joining us in the van were two Israeli guys and two mildly irritating American’s. An hour or so later we reached our boat. We took off and were duly informed that we were cruising along water that encompassed the meeting point of three districts – Allepey, Kottayam and Kochi. The tranquility out here was impressive – coconut palm dotted islands passing us by, fisherman catching mussels and the general peace of being away from the bustle and traffic of India. Our guide told us about the mussel shells and the calcium dioxide harvested by the locals from the shells – apparently a good source of income. We then stopped off at one of the little islands. We got taken past a mini factory where they extract the calcium dioxide and then to some palms to explain how they extract juice from the blooming coconut palm to procure juice, which then ferments into a pretty toxic alcohol called neera. We both took up the offer to try some when back on the boat and the stuff was pretty hard to swallow – I’ll take a nice cab sav or beer any day. Before we left the island we were shown through a little garden which happened to have every Ayuverdic plant under the sun in it. After chewing through some leaves and learning that Ayuverdic medicine can cure every disease known to humans (not cynical at all am I but hey, this was the propaganda), we got back on the boat for some more island cruising. Along the way we spotted numerous kingfisher’s – brilliant blues and reds. Back at starting point, we were fed a delicious vegetarian lunch and then transported a short way to the next part of our tour – a canoe ride. We were taken through the narrow canals by a man (who turned out was a fit 60 year old) with his long bamboo pole to propel us along. We had a quick stop at a little house where they showed the group how coir (rope made from coconut fibre) was made – impressive. Back on the boats we then floated for another hour or two past villages and local children making the usual request for a pen. We had another welcomed stop for chai. A nice afternoon to top off a good morning. Back at our van we then caused a little bit of a ruckus as they wanted us to pay for the tour but we were told to pay back at our accommodation. Nothing like a fight in which you can’t understand what’s being said – body language is usually fairly self evident however. We drove back past a fairly long line of people – it turned out they were mourners at a funeral procession. Having endured the bumps, we got back safe and sound. We then met up with Ilaria and Vincenzo and headed to a little Italian place they had been the night before. The pizza was great – expensive but great. Certainly filled the yearning for some decent western food. After peaches in rum for dessert, we had a short stroll home to bed.

The next day epitomised a lazy holiday kinda day. Post brekky we went and had coffee (surprisingly decent) and cake, checked out the internet for a while and then grabbed some lunch at a place called Fish’n’Chips. And yep, the fish’n’chips actually wasn’t too bad either. A day revolving around food and not much else is my kind of day. We then wandered home and on the way stopped in to watch a Malayalam (the local language) film being made. Was pretty interesting but the pace of shooting was rather slow. After hanging at home (awe have many homes these days), we then wandered back up to Fort Cochin and grabbed a beer with Ilaria and Vincenzo. Impressed by last nights outing, back we went to the Italian restaurant for dinner. This time it was Aglio e Olio tagliatelle for me – delicious!!! Zoe got vege lasagne and we both topped it off with dessert. Fully full, off to bed we went.

We headed to Alleppey the day after. After taking an opportunity for a sleep in we had a late breakfast and then got an auto over to Ernakulam to catch a local bus. Zoe obtained some assistance to locate the right bus and we were soon on our way. Our driver certainly didn’t have any fear of speed. Thankfully this was one of the better Indian roads we had driven down. Ironically, we got held up about halfway along our trip by our accident. A car had seemingly knocked down an old man off his bicycle. There was a bit of blood (and a huge rubber necking crowd) but he seemed to be ok, albeit a little dazed. The police arrive soon after and we were off again, hurtling down the highway towards Alleppey. We arrived in the Venice of India (I’m a little cynical about this moniker) in no time and got an auto to our hotel. A massive homestay greeted us upon arrival, as did the friendly man who owned it. We were to discover that we were the only guests at that point in time. Bags stowed we went for a walk to the nearby beach and grabbed some lunch and a beer to wash it down. On the walk home we went by a scooter school, mostly populated by young women learning the ropes. I didn’t know driving schools existed in India – I’d operated on the presumption that kids just jump on a bike here when they’re 8 or 9 and don’t look back. After a while back at our room we made the 2km walk into town and grabbed some cheap but cheerful dinner. Full up, back to the homestay we went and crashed.

The next day involved very little. We originally had planned to come to Alleppey to do the backwater boat thing but given we’d done it from Kochi there was no great desire to repeat the journey. Happy to take things easy for a couple of days we found a local place to have a lazy breakfast – veg curry and parotta’s. We then had some internet time before wandering around town for a while. Back near the homestay we decided to have a pineapple for lunch. The guy at the fruit store even chopped it us for and it was scrumptious – and only 35 rupees (not even a dollar)!! We did some more lazing about in the afternoon (I think there might’ve been a nap involved) and then headed back in the evening to find somewhere for dinner. Peas roast and a lamb curry were consumed and we were pretty satisfied. Topped off by a mango ice cream and we were ready for the walk back home. Avoiding dogs (they come out to play at night) we made it back and hit the sack.

For our second full lazy day in Alleppey we hired bikes – delivered to our front door. We cycled up to the same place we had brekky yesterday and tucked into the same food. Twas then a quick trip back to the accommodation before riding around on the bikes to check out Alleppey. It was good to stretch the legs but the great Indian roads made it somewhat bumpy. After a little while we were back at the accommodation
Guzzling the neeraGuzzling the neeraGuzzling the neera

Terrible stuff
and proceeded to put the feet up for the rest of the arvo. Getting peckish we jumped back on the bikes in the evening and rode up to a little local restaurant that had cheap and filling dosa. Seduced by the mango ice cream the night before, we went back to the same place for a second fill. On the ride home Zoe had a close encounter with the traffic seemingly – she said that at one point something was coming straight for her and she just closed her eyes, preferring not to be witness to her own demise. Zoe’s still here to tell the tale and we got home not long after to find bed awaiting our flop.

The next morning we continued the art of wasting time before our departure to Chennai on the train. We walked into town (no bikes this time unfortunately) and got brekky – I still struggle with what the Indian’s call bread….tastes like fairy bread and is full of so much sugar. We then ambled back home and checked out after sitting around for a while. To further pass the time we headed down to the beach and grabbed some lunch, along with a covert beer in a coffee mug for me. A quick auto ride to the train station soon after and we were on the way to Chennai.


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KingfisherKingfisher
Kingfisher

Such beautiful colours


27th March 2011

Don't compare Alleppy with the original Venice:D.Aleppy is called the Venice of the East because 1)it was also a great trade port in the ancient times like Venice.Aleppy was one of the main trade ports for Spices 2)here also waterways are the main mode of transportation like Venice.

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