Cruising the River Nile

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The mighty Nile River is the longest in the world, originating in Uganda and flowing through several African countries, before it meanders through Egypt to the mediterranean sea. The annual Nile floods have sustained Egyptian civilisation for thousands of years, and the black sediment left after the floods has provided fertile soil for the people of Egypt in this desert country. A visit to Egypt isn't complete without a cruise on the Nile to visit the magnificent temples, and it's been a dream of mine for some period of time.

So as we prepare to set sail, dear reader, let's quickly bring the journal up to speed. We left off in Cairo after returning from the Sahara, from where I boarded an overnight sleeper train for the journey south to Upper Egypt, and my first port of call Aswan. On the train I was fortunate to meet a solo traveller from Austria, and we traded a few stories before bunking down for the night. I have always loved train journeys, as they have a certain rhythm that can't be matched. We didn't get the chance to enjoy the scenery on an overnight journey, but it was wonderful to stretch out on a full bed after a decent meal. In the morning we had breakfast served, and looked out on the Nile river before arriving in Aswan around 10:00am. We were met by our respective guides at the station, and taken to the same hotel for an introduction to the city and a chance to chill out. After checking in to the Nile boat that would be home for the next three days, we headed off with some other travellers on a minibus tour for the afternoon. We visited the Philae temple on a picturesque island, and then went to the High Dam of Aswan, which is the third largest in the world. The massive dam harnesses the power of the Nile River to benefit the Egyptian people downstream, and it's Russian engineers built a mighty and impressive structure.

I then headed back onboard the M.S. Beau Soleil to relax for the evening, and was up and at 'em at 2:00am to prepare for the three hour drive to Abu Simbel temple south east of Aswan. The temple is a three hour drive in the dead of night, but hundreds of tourists in several buses and minivans all took the trip out together under military convoy. Egypt has no intention of having a repeat of the horrific massacre of tourists that took place at a Luxor temple in the 90's. Abu Simbel is astonishing, and the whole temple has been raised to higher ground after Lake Nasser was flooded at the completion of the high dam. We spent three hours at this remarkable monument to the Egyptians pharaohs, before returning to Aswan by lunch time.

I scoped out internet prices onboard the cruise ship which were exorbitant, and still owed my Austrian friend a hundred pounds, as I left the boat to go to Abu Simbel penniless being half asleep. I needed to head into town to pop online and repay my travel friend at his hotel as he spotted me the entrance fee, but little did I know this short walk would turn into quite the adventure. I disembarked to stride boldly down the road, and instantly the hawks were all over me like a cheap suit. It's all good, I figured, it ain't like a first time experience for me! Ride on my carriage, give me five pounds, blah blah blah. But in hindsight the whole pitch seemed a bit orchestrated to throw me off balance. And then the two boys arrived... The ruse was selling postcards which they pushed against my shorts while I was walking, then below the cards they expertly got their hands into my done up side zipper to boost my cash. The whole experience was a bit uncomfortable and I knew straight away I'd probably been done over, but I tips 'me hat to the pickpockets as they were definitely a pair of pros.

What to do, what to do?! I took a few breaths then headed back to the boat for more cash as I had commitments. You know ... places to be, people to see type thing. Then I strode straight down the same road barely five minutes later. When a kid approached me and asked for five pounds I pointed a stern finger at him and said "Don't touch". He backed off, and all the street hustlers burst out laughing. I also had a smile on my face, but we were communicating on a deeper level, and I think my intentions were made clear. It was like, ok guys, your A-team just did me over good style, but I'm still gonna live my life! So I continued into town to do my thing on the second attempt and returned the same way, bought some water from one of the touts, then decided to lodge a complaint with the policeman stationed at our dock. Of course I wasn't expecting anything to come of my complaint, but thought I should let them know. After all, this policeman and the petty crims work the same beat every day, so another dumb tourist is hardly gonna turn their world upside down.

We sailed north to Luxor with a couple of stops at temples along the Nile, and I was sharing the trip with a Canadian guy I met on the first tour out of Aswan. There was heaps of food, and the staff were very friendly. Plus we got to experience the people of the Nile Valley living their timeless lives, as they have done for several millenia. After arriving in Luxor I had a jam packed day with a young American girl who was travelling solo to post revolutionary Egypt as her first overseas trip. That really blew me away! She is lovely though, and in good hands with the guides from our company, who do a great job showing us around and educating us on their proud culture.

We visited several magnificent temples during an unforgettable day in Luxor, and also explored the tombs of the pharaohs in the Valley of Kings. What a terrific way to bring to a close my visit to the Nile Valley! The ancient capital of Egypt is brimming with extraordinary temples on both sides of the river, particularly the East and West bank of Luxor. This city is the tourist hub of Egypt and my knowledgeable guide Lami said around six million Egyptians are employed in the tourist trade. He is desperate for foreign tourists to return to one of the cradles of civilisation and might even suggest, basically all of you should be here now!

Ordinarily he was insane, but he had lucid moments when he was merely stupid." Heinrich Heine

As I continue my travels, until next time it's signing off for now

Tom

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Photos

Statues of Abu Simbel
Carved into the mountain at this amazing temple.

The temples of Karnak, Luxor
A palm tree behind this statue creates an impressive head piece.

Luxor temple
Taken at the impressive entrance.

Funerary temple of Hatshepsut
Rising in terraces against the mountain.

Avenue of sphinxes
Heading to the entrance to Luxor temple.

Comments

[Lisa Moore]

very cool to follow
Hi Tom, I'm really enjoying following your travels. What an exciting time to travel to Egypt! Stay safe and write lots! Cheers, Lisa and Steve P.S. Have you heard about the show "An Idiot Abroad"? You might enjoy watching it - it's funny.

[Dale Block]

Curious
we bought our tickets in January - prior to the unrest. Wondering what your view is of the situation now. We are intending to fly to Cairo then to Sharm el sheik and spend a week in the on the Red Sea and then possibly head to Aswan. I"ve been to Cairo 4 times - and thoroughly enjoy. Just wondering about your view of situation as gov't website still indicates to refrain from non essential travel. Also, did you get your visa prior to flying there. thanks

[Tom Rooney]

Come to Egypt
Hi Dale, thanks for your comment. I recommend a visit and the Egyptian people are desperate for tourists to visit again. I've never had so many welcomes in my life, even from the military at the various checkpoints into Sinai. Government websites will always take a conservative viewpoint on non essential travel to trouble spots, and justifiably so. But I have stopped over in Sharm and stayed in Aswan with no problems. Finally, re your question I got a visa on arrival, 15 buckaroos and sorted in a jiffy for most nationalities. Enjoy!

[D MJ Binkley]

We are enjoying your travels
Thanks for writing.

[John Clark]

Safety
My family is planning on going to Egypt in April. Is that a good idea/ We have a few days in Cairo, then to the usual tourist spots on the Nile. My thinking is to go right from the airport to the hotel near Giza, and not to the Egyptian museum etc. Your thoughts.

[Tom Rooney]

Destination Egypt!
Hi John. Thanks for your comment and I wish your family all the best for your upcoming trip to Egypt. I have just arrived back in the same downtown hotel in Cairo, where the first travellers I met were a Canadian family with four kids. The situation has changed again for the better even since I arrived in Egypt two weeks ago, and Tahrir Square has now been cleared of protestors in the last three days by Egyptians themselves. There will also be a democratic vote this coming weekend on the structure of the new constitution. Giza is wonderful, as is Upper Egypt on the Nile. Please note I don't have a family, but I visited the Egyptian Museum with absolutely no problems. The country is secure, the people are wonderful, the army want the best for the Egyptian people so I recommend your family come along for the ride. Enjoy!

[Jim Beckham]

Sailing down the Nile
Could you give us a little more info on the trip down the Nile from Aswan to Luxor? What was the boat/ship like? What to see on that portion of the trip. My wife and I will be doing the same thing Oct 19.