(PART 2) Side by side, a world apart.


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September 18th 2010
Published: September 18th 2010
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After checking in at the hotel, and re-noodling our empty stomachs, me and Cassie went out for a wander around. Being overheated, I rather ingeniusly decided against wearing even one of my jackets for the next outing. I must say, the first twenty minutes were blissfully refreshing. However as I paced the streets looking for a machine that would aknowledge my bank cards as something other than useless plastic rectangles, my body soon remembered how unpleasantly cold outside is (and has been for my entirety in China).

Still, in an attempt to disguise my lack of thought , Cassie's periodical queries regarding my temperature were met with denial and a respectable reportoire of manly noises showing my content. I don't believe communicating with grunts and rasps suffers from a language barrier anywhere, thank you evolution.

I must admit our wandering led us nowhere particularly inspiring. It's always interesting seeing a new city but it was like walking towards somewhere all day and never actually arriving. We got on well and she was very talkative luckily so that kept everything lively enough. When we got back to the village around my hotel after several hours, having toured various regions the
The swimming dragonThe swimming dragonThe swimming dragon

Rather him than me in that icy water.
city and her university, Cassie called for one of her friends to come join us as we sat down for some more food.

Judging from the level of whispering and shy laughter, they were coming up with an analayse of foreign men. It's interesting the different reception an unshaved foreigner gets in these parts of the world. At home, coming out for a socialable evening with stubble nearly worthy of the title beard, people would think I look messy or lazy on the whole, or amoungst close friends just get teased for looking a paedophile. Whereas here because of the contrast to the majority of Chinese mens naturally smooth faces, it's seen as ruggedly handsome and just plain butch as a rule of thumb. Sweet. Getting pillaged of shaving equipment on airlines seems less troublesome on this side of the world. Come darkness I suggested getting an early night, with the hope of defrosting a little.

The following few days were spent in a similar routine wherein Cassie would turn up banging on my door bright and early at my hotel, I'd roll out of bed and stumble into a few items of clothing on the way to
VertigoVertigoVertigo

Were loeft hanging around awhile at this park ride.
answering the door. She'd be wide awake wearing an excited smile and holding a glint in her eye. Sometimes holding breakfast too, which beats any alarm clock I've ever bought. We'd lay around on my bed together eating food and messing around, teaching her French and learning Chinese, making fun of each others cultures, enjoying the simplicity of the mornings we shared, with no watches and no to do lists. Then we'd layer up for the outdoors and venture off to places worth going to, if you have nowhere else to go.

One of the days she took me to meet some more friends and we decided on paying a visit to the 'dragon in the river' that I had heard mentioned by a traveller who'd accidently been to Taiyuan. As we followed the river towards it, her and her friends were telling me how the dragon is the symbol of China and how the statue jutting out in the middle of river, represents not just Taiyuan but the power of China as a whole. However as the curved, snake like figure in the distance became plainly visible, the girls started laughing. This monumentous figure representing their city was clearly troublesome to maintain being in the middle of a river. The poor dragon looked like had picked a fight with a hurricane. Although structurely all intact, the dragons skin was discoloured and ripped in places, revealing the metal bones of it's hollow frame. The base could only be described as substandard even if it was looking new and cleared of rubbish. Though it was still impressive and a welcome site for sight.

On another day we caught a bus to the outskirts of the city, to go and see a pretty historic temple that was like a summer house for emperors of past. Was puzzled over the purpose of the camel wandering around it mind. However I stumbled across two note-worthy discovers at this once countryside estate, now swallowed by 50 generations inevitable expansion of this uninspired city.

The first of which was inside the courtyards of the estate. As I leaned on an ornate little bridge, peering down to the water gently swimming downstream into the gardens, I pointed out a cute waterfall falling from a dragons stone mouth. I was then assured this water was not only clean but also naturally sweet tasting. Now it
TaiyuanTaiyuanTaiyuan

Generic, overpopulated but peaceful.
doesn't taken a veteren backpacker to learn not to go drinking random unbottled water in 2nd world overpopulated citys. However the dragon looked happy, and curiosity over naturally sweet water overcame me. I lowered myself over the bridge, and cupped my hands up to dragons mouth as if feeding it. Much to Cassies amusement, my foot slipped on the mossy stone and as I reached to grab something I managed to throw water all over myself. After I stopped laughing I decided to get more primative. I put my face up to the dragons whilst holding myself steady with both hands on various rocks. Upon hearing Cassies giggling continue again, I part my lips from the dragons to look up at a group of Chinese tourists staring down at me with mixed looks of confusion, amusement and scolds. Time to move on.

The second was an old man sat on a step on the open air, higher levels of the temple. The bored man was staring out over the trees littering the surrounding gardens, a cloth laid out in front of him with a collection of all things bizarre laid out on it for impulsive consumers passing by. I stopped to glance over his curious assortment. Patterned silk handkerchiefs next to sharpened penknifes. Rustic cigarette cases, next to miniture shoes that looked unsettlingly familiar to bound shoes I've seen ancient women forced to wear in old black and white photos. What caught my eye was a line of large silver coins. I picked them up and started thumbing through them. These coins appeared to be from before the Communist revolution 60 odd years ago. Cassie, joined my side and looked closely at them. 'Fakes' she confidently says and continues walking ahead. However one of the coins still stood out to me, which just felt different to the others. The old man seemed aware Cassie had dismissed his coins so I settled a fair price (£1) and walked off looking closely at my coin. Since then, numerous people have looked at the coin and all told me it's a real silver coin used before RMB was invented. Feel sorry I only gave the old man 10元 (yuan) for it.


So time had finally run out, as my final day in Taiyuan drew to evening I lifted my bag once more, stopping to thank the owners on my way out. They gave me a good wishes for my journey, waving and smiling at me as I walked back down the alley with Cassie by my side. Their attitudes towards me gradually lightened the more time I spent I there, chatting to them with the limited Chinese I had. I suppose as they became more sure I was indeed foreign and that I wasn't here to cause any trouble. Cassie tells me this Chinese caution is common but people warming to one another quickly is not irregular either.

We reach the road, taxis already waiting to escort the droves of students out of their 'village'.

'Well this is it' I sigh, she was still in a good mood that day but I could see in her eyes she wasn't looking forward to this moment.

'Yes, now you know where to...'

'Cassie, don't worry about me, I got this whole train/bus thing pretty well covered'

'Covered in what?'

'Custard' I smile. She looks confused. 'Nevermind, I'll be okay, you just get yourself home before it gets too late, yeah?'

Her turn to smile. 'Okay, I'll go back now. I'll miss you' She pauses, momentarily lost in thought, her smile fading like warm breath on glass. 'Just call me if you come to Taiyuan again.'

'For sure' I reply, but couldn't help thinking how I will almost defintely never pass through this city again. 'Goodbye Cassie' I give her a hug and kiss her cheek. 'Look after yourself'. With one last sparkle in her watery eyes, she says nothing but just stares into my gaze. I turn and walk to the taxi door throwing in my russack, the taxi sinks an inch. This is it, I repeat in my head. Another goodbye. I duck down into the taxi feeling a little subdued.

'Wait...' She blurts out closing the empty meters between us. I raise myself up again.

'What is it?'

'I can wait, you know...' Her welled eyes painting an undenialable honesty over her innocent features. 'I can't wait forever, but think 2 years'.

'2 years?' I'm taken by suprise. 'Wait for what?' A guilty weight starts to grow inside me as I read her expression.

'For you, to come back' A tear rolls down her cheek, but her dark eyes stay glued to mine. ' For you to marry me.'

'Cassie...' I close my eyes and bow my head for a moment, knowing it would be crueller to lie but wishing I didn't have to look back up and say the words I was about to. 'Cassie, this city isn't my home. This isn't where my life is taking me.' I look up and the see a tear marking a line down her other cheek. The weight inside me doubles. 'You know, I don't know where I will be in 2 weeks. In 2 years I could be anywhere doing anything. You are a sweet girl, when you meet the man who you marry I will just be an old memory, of an unusual week you had when you were younger. I won't forget you but our paths are too different, you don't even want to leave your hometown.' Looking into her eyes I realise if I need to put her off or she will wait for me anyway, even if it does feel like twisting the blade. 'You don't really know me Cassie, I'm not what you are looking for.'

She nods silently. I give her another hug and she hugs me back. 'I understand' she whispers. 'Goodbye Rich'

I turn again, and lower myself back into the taxi, heavy-hearted. I tell the driver where to go and look back out of the window to see a smile back on her face. Though this time a weak facade of a smile, wet tracks on her pale face still glistening in the city lights. As the taxi pulled away, I sat in silence listening to the sounds of the road and watching buildings flash past with glazed eyes. I couldn't help but visualise her alone in her thoughts, having spilled her heart only to have her naive fairytale abruptly ended by a dose of reality. The words of Rudyard Kipling came into my head. 'There are only two kinds of men in the world - those that stay at home, and those that do not.'

It was going to be a long train.


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8th October 2010

what a lovely story.....
Hi Richard, I work with your mum and she forwarded on your blog to me. I love travelling and seeing other cultures etc and always like to hear from her what you (and your sister) are up to! I have to say that having just read this blog about your days with Cassie, it actually brought a tear to my eye..it is written so well, seriously you should write a book about your travels, I'm sure people would love it. Your trip sounds amazing, I'm incredibly jealous but wil continue to read about your trip! Moira ps...love the picture of you standing on your hands with Hong Kong in the backgound!!!

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