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Published: September 16th 2010
Today is my last day in Taveuni. Last night, when I was trying to figure out what to do with today, I felt torn. I thought I should be “doing” something with my last day, but at the same time I’m pretty worn out and didn’t feel like a big trip and also didn’t want to spend too much more money here (these 5 nights in Taveuni are costing me almost as much as the next 2 weeks will). I flipped through my guide book and my accommodation’s binder of things to do. Eventually I settled on going on a tour of a black pearl farm. The spot to meet the boat is only about a 3 minute drive from where I’m staying, the tour is less than 2 hours and it’s inexpensive but I’d see something I haven’t yet.
A couple from Australia were also on the tour with me. We met at Audrey’s Beach in Matei, boarded a small boat and headed out over the water. The pearl farm is a few hundred metres away from shore, near a few small uninhabited islands. I learned that they used to have a house out there over the water but
when the hurricane hit Taveuni this last March (it lasted three days!), the house was blown to the other side of the island. So they’re going to rebuild sometime before the end of the year and for now are operating from their owner’s home on the shore.
Our guide, Aaron, talked us through their entire farming process. It was interesting to hear, but my brain is not biologically wired enough to remember how to explain it all to you (not that you’re reading my blog for biology lessons anyway!). He dove into the water and pulled up an oyster for us to look at as he explained everything to us. Then we went out to the edge of the farm and he pulled up one of the lines that had dozens of oysters hanging on it, producing pearls.
After the tour, we had time to snorkel around the farm. I knew that this was part of the tour and initially thought we’d be going along the lines of oysters. After the tour, I wasn’t sure I was going to be all that interested in the snorkeling - once we’d seen a line, how many more would we want
to see? But I hadn’t realized that in the middle of their farm is actually tons of coral and fish and other sea critters. And because the water is pretty shallow (I’d guess no more than about 8 feet) everything was so close. I was able to get some really incredible pictures from today.
I loved it, exploring the water. Aaron kept finding all sorts of things for me and bringing some stuff to the surface for close up photos - a blue starfish and some HUGE sea cucumbers (I’d never seen any that big before!). There were tons of giant clams and even a lobster. And so many fish! I can’t believe how many there were, just everywhere. It was incredible. So glad I decided to go on this tour. It was perfect for the energy I had but still so interesting with incredible sights.
Back onshore, we stopped into their shop to look at the pearls they have for sale. In the shop, they had a cute little kitten (she’s 8 weeks old) and she had a little pearl necklace on! She was so cute. I got a pair of pearl shell earrings - they’ll be
my souvenir from Taveuni.
I’ve spent the afternoon just relaxing around Makaira (where I’m staying). Tonight I had dinner with the other guests who are staying here and with the owners of Makaira, John and Roberta. John cooked and his meals are excellent.
I’m trying to soak up my final hours here on Taveuni. I’ve been dreaming of coming here for so long . . . and it is unlikely I’ll be back. It’s a beautiful island. I want to remember all the little things about being here.
One more night and morning, then I’m on my way back to Nadi.
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Scott Putnam
non-member comment
Nice pictures and trip!
Great little blog - and nice pictures! The starfish you pictures is a "crown of thorns starfish". It destroys (eats) coral reefs and is poisonous to the touch (the thorns will easily pierce your skin and inject toxin). The good news is found in your snorkeling picture - where you feature a triton snail. Tritons eat crown of thorn starfish. That's why it's now illegal to collect this shell/snail in Fiji. Anyway - yes, there used to be a little hut on stilts out on the reef. It was about a hundred meters from shore, just as you rounded the corner heading down the east coast road. You'd see it at the same time you saw Qamea and Matangi Islands for the first time. I hope you had a great time on Taveuni - it's actually one of my favorite islands in Fiji. In fact, you can see some of my Taveuni underwater videos on YouTube (ScotterP99) in case you get nostalgic for the place. Thanks again for the pics. They're great!