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Published: August 3rd 2010
We got up early ready to leave Kochkor, Russ was up before me, he had been sick, puking and going to the bathroom a lot, he suspects the meatpie from yesterday, but he had this same problem and I suspect giardiasis from drinking stream water in Tibet. Anyway we said goodbye to the wonderful family who hosted us, I will miss the cute kids whom I taught how to count and sing the ABC, we walked to town, which with my heavy pack is not pleasant, and in the town center near the bazaar we haggled for prices to Karakol but it is steep, they want 2,000 soms for both of us, we are not having that so we negotiated a shared taxi to Balykchy an hours drive away and costs us 150 soms each, we will change there for buses or taxis to Karakol. We waited about 20 minutes for 2 more passengers to fill up the shared taxi, and once we got going we flew literally, we got to Balykchy in 45 minutes! We got dropped off right at the bus station, we saw the old dilapidated bus and is leaving in an hour, Russ sent me to ask
around those white minivans parked on the road as LP says they leave faster, I found them and I negotiated for a good price and got it down to 200 soms each, the van is full thank goodness, we gassed up and left, the van is very fast as well and some people got on and off, we went around the lake in the clockwise manner, we saw fruits and dried smoked fish being sold on the side of the road, Ilgi told us those fish were actually from Russia and they are not fresh water fish but from the sea, well at least some, am sure they have fish from this lake.
We arrived at Karakol and we got dropped off at Neofit GH unfortunately they are full, it seems a wedding is going on and we have to walk a good 30 minutes with our packs to get to our other choice, Terskey GH which is in a little nook, very rural setting though only 5 minutes from the main drag. It was very nice and clean and we negotiated a price, 450 soms each if we stay 4 nights which we will. We it internet and
then pizza at Lovely pizza place, and good draft beers, they will have a big screen tonight for the futbol final so we might come back. There are 3 or 4 ATM machines in town, one is near the vista internet place, at a post office I think, i got money out but Russ' card was rejected so we walked and found one more at Toktogul St. but rejected both our cards so we gave up and then we found a supermarket to shop for food, Caravan market on the same street and they have an ATM machine inside and it worked for me again. Russ has to go back to internet and call his card, meanwhile I had sashylik for snack, then back to the GH.
The next day, Monday we visited the TIC office to inquire about treks,they have a good set up and the people working there are very professional and goes out of their way to help and speaks good English, we wanted to do a 4 day hike but were told a certain pass is difficult at the moment because of snow and is terribly cold to camp so we settled on doing a
3 day hike starting from the Karakol valley to Ala Kol then to Altyn Arashan ending in Ak Suu. We could buy a map of our own and do it ourselves but we decided to hire a guide to make the trip easier and also we can go to other places not in the map. We met Sasha, a Russian/Kyrgyz dude, big burly dude and English so so, he was very reserved at first but had a kind face, still Russ wasn't keen, he would rather have a Kyrg guide, so we got the quote and left then we tried the CBT office but was shut half an hour before the posted lunch time closure, we were pissed, we came back and this Russian looking duide gave us a quote for the same trek only more expensive and is not willing to get the price down, which is ridiculous, they have not much tourist here because of the recent turmoil in Osh, the least they could do is negotiate a cheaper price for tourists but we did not like him so we came back to TIC, we agreed on the price, only thing we requested is that the guide pay
for his meals the 1st night which he agreed.
We went shopping trying to get ready for the hike the next day, and picked up Russ' sleep mat which he wants to rent at IGPA, he had an argument about the fee to rent the matt and went on and on, finally he relented. Went to buy rotiserrie chicken to make into a sandwich, we spend the night preparing, we made our own sandwiches, packed our things for the hike and slept early. The next morning at breakfast I met 2 Aussie dudes staying at the GH who had just been to Afghanistan and Tajikistan so I took a few pointers. Sasha was on time to pick us up, a taxi was waiting for us to get dropped off at the starting point of the hike, The Karakol valley is long and we tried to get as far inside the park, oh we have to pay a fee to get in also,we got dropped off when the taxi could not drive any further and we started to walk.
The scenery as always here in Kyrg is stunning, rolling hills, pine tree, yes trees, unlike in Kochkor where the
hills are just grass, we followed the jeep track all the way in, a big river runs next to the path, beautiful and cold, we crossed a few streams which on one of them I slipped and my shoes got wet. We stopped for lunch next to a creek and then started to hike up the mountain, this part was difficult for me as we have heavy packs with us, I was forcing myself to keep up, our guide Sasha is very fast and he decide when to stop. At each stop we enjoy the beautiful mountain view and perfect sunny weather. We also saw some wildlife, marmots and ducks. Arriving at our first camp site, Sarita we wasted no time in setting up our tent, then moments later a Russian couple came down the trail from the opposite side, turns out to be Sash's good friend Misha, very nice fellow, very chatty, we gathered firewood before dark to light a bonfire to keep us warm, Russ was sleeping in his tent, I also got to wash my clothes, and dry in an hour, the sun is so intense. I went for a skinny dip in the freezing cold stream,
Russ did the same but on another part of the river. I had lunch while waiting for my clothes to dry. I came back to camp with all the clothes I have on newly washed.
We shared dinner with the Russian couple, Sasha brought beer with him, we fely guilty as he was the one sharing his food to us when we were supposed to pay for it but refused, Sasha turns out to be a coold fellow, very easy to get along with, and knows the trails very well.The sky was lit up with all the stars, we light a bonfire, then went to bed, waking to a cloudy day! It was all gray and cold, what a miserable start. We had a quick breakfast and Sasha urged us to get going, we said goodbye to the couple and we set off, today is a hard climbing day. from the camp we steadily walked up towrds the Ala Kol pass, i struggled mightily and had to play catch up everytime, my heavy pack was slowing me down, I thought I was gonna die, one point I hyperventilated, I have to stop and recover, we rested a couple of
times but we get higher and higher and the trails get harder and harder, we followed the waterfall up to the source atop the pass, the Ala Kol, what sight to behold, I think this might be the most beautiful alpine lake I have ever seen.
The water still has some thin ice sheet and made for a wonderful photo, the reflections, the intense crazy blue color of the water, did not matter that it was cloudy and gray, s expected I took hundreds of photos, The good thing is there is now wind here. ice still covers the side of the mountain walls. Russ decides to go for a swim in the buff in the ice cold water, me and Sasha took pictures of him per his request, and when he came back ashore I jokingly dared Sasha to do it too and he did, peer pressure, did not work for me though, I wasn't as open minded as them I guess. Sash stripped off quickly and jumped in the icy water. Moments later after both boys got dressed, a bunch of hikers came along the top of the pass, screaming at the top of their lungs, happy
to make it up the pass.
We still have a long way to go, we have to climb up another pass and make it to the other side, this one is harder, steeper and more treacherous than the first one, rocks and boulders lined the path and we have to go over them, tricky to maintain balance as you tip toe your way out of the boulder forest. I was slow, I was struggling to keep up, just when you thought the trail has peaked comes anoter turn and another, i felt like giving up, my knees were buckling, and just when I was about to, we reached the top! We rested atop the pass, with glaciers, and melting snow still covering the shoulders of the pass. Sash surveyed the area and decided where we go down from. Russ and I looked at each other when we were given instructions of" when you see avalanche behind you, take off your bags and run" wtf??? anyway the pass is steep to get down from you have to slide or "ski" your way down the side of the mountain, mostly rocks and dirt, it was so slippery and as you slide
down it comes down with you, Sasha showed us how to do it and we tried, it worked but scary, and with packs on your bag you have to be careful not to roll over, making our way down eventually skiing on dirt and snow at the bottom of the ravine, I have to clean my shoes, full of debris, rocks, soil and snow!
This valley is the Keldike, beautiful rolling hills, high pasture land, with cows and horses, after lunch we set off quickly and it a looong walk! going around hill after hill, we have to cross the river too, and we ended up taking lour shoes off at one point to cross, it was freezing cold! Painful sensation but oddly soothing later for the tired feet. The clouds had rolled in and first drops of rain fell but stopped shortly, cloudy as it may seem we have not any rain yet luckily.
Eventually we made it to the the Arashan valley, beautiful deep gorge with a ferocious cold river running through it.
Arriving in the campsite, i think it's called Yak GH, we negotiated a price to get beds rather tahn camp, for only $2 difference
we took it and the fee incldes the use of the hot bath. Sasha asked the owner if we can get the smaller private bath to soak our weary bodies, they agreed for the same price. We stripped off and jumped in this scalding hot "mineral" water, Russ and I grimaced in pain as we cooked our flesh in this superheated water. Sasha being a sturdy rough Russian was not fussed, and out on a dare, he convinced Russ to run down the cold river after, naked. They did it 2 times I was the wiser one I opted to just stay in the hot water. it was painful to watch them going from hot to cold water, luckily too no one was around to see them in butt naked running like crazy towards the river and back.
After the hot bath we played table tennis at the dining room area, I beat them both, Sasha ever the competitive one, played with me for hours and never once won against me, we finally have to give up as we were both exhausted. Dinner was meager, salads and some piece of meat, for 200 soms per meal you get nothing
Day 1: Karakol valley
consulting the map, Russ and Sachamuch really. We met a swiss brother and sister who quizzed Sasha about the route to the Ala Kol, they will do it tomorrow. Our room is drafty and Russ is next to the faulty window, we both took 2 blankets each and slept inside our sleeping bags, we fell asleep quickly though, it was a tiring day.
In the morning after breakfast, Sash and I played ping pong again then hurried to get ready to leave. A group arrived late last night when we were in bed, apparently this is the group who yelled in the Ala Kol pass, Turkish tourists, they were so slow they did not make it to the Yak GH until late night, we were 6 hours ahead of them! it must have been so difficult walking in the dark even with torches, the paths are narrow and slippy and full of cow and horse manure some are still fresh. Anyway we set off on our last day, perfect weather, the sun is out and is quite hot. I took my time to enjoy the scenery, Sasha was too fast for me, Russ kept up with him while I walked gingerly, my foot is
hurting. I took lots of photos, occasionally stopping for rest, we met many local tourists, some in thier trucks, we met a Belgian bird watcher with his own jeep, he gave us a ride later back to Karakol. bless him. In one of the stops I soaked my feet in the cold river to soothe them.
For a few pints of beer we got a free lift to town, we went to a touristy restaurant in town, Fakir, for beer and lunch, the Belgian dude is a bit weird and Sasha thought so too but he was friendly enough. Then Sasha walked with me to the Teskey GH while Russ return his sleep mat at IGPA.Shower, laundry we then went to internet then met up later for dinner. The streets were dark at night here in karakol and we have to walk for miles to get from place to place, big streets Soviet style set up.
This town is very quiet though and I feel safe here even in the night when you have to grapple your way back to your GH. We had sashylik for dinner, in this restaurant where 2 guys sing at the top of their
Day 1: Karakol valley
taking a break from the hike voice, Kyrgyz dance music, the table behind us were a group of tipsy older people being rowdy and loud(one too many vodkas), one woman fell on the chair and Russ couldn't stop laughing.We have to scream to talk to each other, we left after dinner and walked the dark streets back to our place. Russ stubbed his left pinky toe and is walking gingerly but we walked fast when we got to a dark street where there were people behind us, nothing happened just a bit paranoid. tomorrow we plan to rest.
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Kimo
non-member comment
Great photos
Your photos of Ala Kol look insanely amazing.