Regaining the Rhythm of Kolkata

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I've been settlin' into my old routines from two years past.

Yesterday I showed Bennyboy around the Vicoria Memorial before walking to AJC Bose and registering to volunteer. At the registration, I met a woman from Taiwan and was able to have a halfway-decent conversation in putonghua . Her English was much better than my Chinese, but still, it was nice.

There are loads of volunteers around. Mostly Spanish and French, but also a few Americans, including two who study in Seattle.

The other day on the roof of the Best Guesthouse in the Universe, I met a group of three Irish volunteers. One was another Brendan, and another one was an O'Reilly. Only in Kolkata!

Today was my first day of volunteering (this time around). I am happy to say I am back at Prem Dam. Many of the faces of the patients are the same, and many (even the senile and otherwise mentally impaired) seemed to recognize me. I was mostly doing manual labour of washing clothes and cleaning the grounds, but alot of time was spent sitting with patients and talking to them, rubbing their backs, or just holding their hands and telling them in Bengali that everything is alright. I even managed to do a bit of translation for the newbees.

Got a bit emotional, lots of very strong memories.

Unfortunately my beard is not big enough, and my demenour is not yet fully congruent with the Kolkata streets. So far, only two unsolicited assalam alaikums and one namaste. Some curious and confused stares, some subtle and indifferently friendly sideways head nods (this is what I seek) and a few too many "hellos". Give me a few weeks and I should be able to pull the Jedi Mind Trick on most of the population outside Sudder Street once more.

Although, as my friend and former co-worked Dr. Sawar sold me, "You are half Bengali." Maybe it's really not a trick after all.

One man of a pair looked very confused when he saw me, and then his friend burst out laughing when I gave a passable side-nod and eyebrow wiggle.

The newspapers here reflect the full spectrum of political thought, and are the best in the world. Nothing is taboo, expect for offending remarks about religion- any religion, really. The main story today was the death of the third highest ranking Maoist, with the nome de gurre Azad. Now, those of you who do not know about the Maoists in India should do four minutes of internet research. Long story short is they are waging a guerilla war (with occasional terror attacks) against the entire Indian state and social structure. They get most of their support from the Adavasi ("original inhabitant") tribal people who have been left behind my India's economic growth. Since the 1960s, thousands of people have died in what basically amounts to a low-intensity civil war. The Maoists have generally grown more powerful and expanded their reach in the last decade.

This man Azad died in a police "encounter". The official line is that Azad was apprehended by police, he then fired upon them and was fatally shot during a one-hour gun battle. However, none of the local villagers where his body was recovered heard gunfire, and no police officers were wounded. The local newspaper I read strongly implied that the official story is complete rubbish, and that Azad was probably captured, "interrogated", and then killed. There was even a story that implied his death was a bad things, because it would spell the end of peace talks. Supposedly the man killed was something of a so-called moderate in the Maoist movement.

Imagine if the press in America was so skeptical of the proclomations of our government. There's a couple thousand soldiers and a couple of billions of dollars that would still be safe and sound in our shores.

In many ways, India is the best democracy in the world. There is real "direct democracy" here. Despite the (many many horrible) problems, every year life for people is generally getting better, education is improving, and they have a bit more fat and muscle on their bones.

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Photos

The Grave of "Hindoo Stuart"
The enlightened Englishman

Shakole morbe
all must die...

Comments

[momma]

bandh
looks to be lots of 'direct democracy' this week

[Ellen]

friend coming to India
sent you an email with Jerome's email address, he's about your age, son of my friend Tim, travelled in southern India alone six weeks couple years back, coming back. drawn to it, as you are....