Fu Fu and Star Beer


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Africa » Ghana
June 29th 2010
Published: June 30th 2010
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It’s been a very long day, considering the day started 5 a.m. Monday morning and it is now 10:30 p.m. Tuesday night Ghana time (3:30 a.m. Phoenix time), but I’m still too wound up to fall asleep just yet, so while my roommate sleeps in our full-not-queen size bed (yes there is only one bed, and yes we’re both quite healthy BUT we’re luckier than the men in our trip because all four of them got stuck in one room with one bed - although it’s allegedly for only one night). I’m going to give you the quick low down on the day’s events.

*All is actually really quite cool and organized at Ghana’s airport. I expected a swarm of folk asking for money, but it was more like an ant colony stratgizing the attack. The first man who tried to help me with my bags backed off when I said no thanks. The second guy was a little more persistent and grabbed on to my luggage cart. I didn’t let go and kept pushing until the he left me alone. I dodged a few more baggage helpers and became quite adept at zigzagging my cart to swerve them off. But then all hell broke lose. One of us --- truly meaning well --- asked a professor “when do we tip?” Another one of us pulled out his wallet. Next thing you know I’ve got three men grabbing my cart, a bunch more asking us to tip for just plain being there. Some more of us caved and started pulling out money. One guy said “jest $20. No problem.” I sound insensitive writing this way about people just trying to make some money, but it was overwhelming and a little scary for someone whose never done this before. Plus, I didn't have the right cash to give out, and there were so many of them --- my money needed to last for the whole trip. Luckily, a police officer came to part the crowd, so we could get on our bus (a nice air-conditioned van).

*When the bus driver closes the window curtains, don’t open them up again. Vendors with fruit on a stick or piles of stuff on their heads do not fear getting hit. They pop in and out of nowhere trying to sell while your vehicle is moving. Kids stop and stare, Women look at you from under their baskets, and even men peeing on the side of the road turn around to look at you looking at them.

*It is totally surreal to be in an air-conditioned van with a flat screen playing African soap operas while driving through a Ghanain ghetto. Look out the window and you see kids washing dishes next to a group of men surrounding a rabbit-ear TV watching a soccer game, next to women strutting it while carrying a dump-truck’s worth of stuff on their heads, next to something that just might be a dingo, next to open ditches as deep as the Grand Canyon. The thing is you’re mesmerized by the streets AND the soap opera on the t.v. God Be With Us … tomorrow I hope we learn who truly is the father of that chick with the who was kissing the fiancé of her sister.

p.s. the soap opera distraction helps when your busdriver almost tears off the fender of a Mercedes, plays chicken with too many other vehicles, and gets out of the van to yell at some other driver until one of them decides to back it up and get out of the other’s way.

*The most important lesson learned of all is to not judge by appearances. We went to a compound --- friends/family of one of our professor's --- to eat dinner. Just between me and all of you, my orifice clenched a bit when I saw where we were parking to go eat dinner. When we walked into the backyard, there were table-clothed tables with chilled bottles of water waiting for us. Bug lights hung from the laundry line and men, women and children worked on cooking and serving us a feast --- most of it done outside. We were welcomed into their home and treated like royalty. As soon as we sat the electricity went out, but that’s okay because we used flashlights and the bug lights to find our way to the food. We washed our fingers in the dipping bowls (and then secretly used our hand sanitizer), and tasted it all. The stews were really, really good. But, I have to tell you I’m not a fan of fu fu (I think they’re raw dumplings) and the goat/chicken/peanut soup that went with it. Their yams are not our yams --- they’re white and mealy. The plaintains, however, are awesome. And, Star Beer is quite tasty --- even if it smells just a little skunky.

I have trouble understanding Ghanaian English, but I sooooo love their laughter and sincere hospitality. The whole thing might be scary when you look at it from an American perspective, but then again our version of hospitality would probably be really scary to a Ghanaian --- how many of us would welcome complete strangers into our home and cook up a feast?

Okay, I’m really tired. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

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30th June 2010

Be Safe
Fascinating. I'm envious. Be safe. DC
30th June 2010

safe and sweaty
Thanks you two! Dave, so far so good. It's bedtime for day/night number two and so far no bowel misfunctions. I was a little worried about that fru fru. Today, I ate the Ghanain version of Popeyes. Jules, Thank God it's not as hot as Phoenix, but it's humid. Really humid. The amazing thing is we went to the big market in Accra today, and the place is jammed paced with EVERYTHING. It's insane (I'll try to write about it tomorrow), and the only place that smelled was where they sold meat and fish. You would think it'd stink elsewhere, but I swear it didn't. Personal hygene is a big thing here. Exhausted and getting ready to go pass out. It feels like I've been gone for more than two days!
1st July 2010

You Rock!!
Um- you going hunting while you're there? Just kiddin'. Have a BLAST!!!
25th July 2010

snapping of your middle finger is part of how Ghanaians shake hands. It's not a "tip me" gesture.
25th July 2010

Thanks for the correction
Yes, Mike you are absolutely right. I later learned this, and I apologize for getting it wrong when I wrote this.

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