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Published: June 24th 2010
Varanasi-McCloud Ganj
No messing around now, 12 hour train journeys = First Class Ticket.First class travel on Indian Railways is the way forward. Air conditioning, a dedicated door locakable compartment, bedsheets, blankets and a full 6 and a half foot sleeping couch. You are also excused from the traditional Indian scrumage when boarding and alighting. Mcleod Ganj is an interesting place, positioned at an altitude of 1800m in the Indian Himalayan foothills it brings much welcome cooler conditions. In 1949 China invaded Tibet, 1.2 million Tibetans were killed in the ensuing battle and resistance campaign. Ten years later it was no longer considered safe for the 14th Delai Lama to remain in Chinese occupied Tibet. He fled over the mountains to Northern India and settled in Dharamasala (a few kilometers from Mcleod) where the Tibetan government in exile is now located. Fleeing Tibetans made Dharamasala and Mcleod Ganj their new home. HH The 14th Delai Lama now resides opposite the Temple Complex in Mcleod Ganj. His armed guard didn't look as if he was in a good mood so we refrained from requesting a personal audience. We did however enter the temple and surrounding area which was full of Buddhist monks taking a breather from the quest for enlightenment.
After 3 days of
Free Tibet
50 years on the Tibetans still believe. watching circling Eagles overhead, magnificent vegetable Jalfrezi's at McLLo's and an aborted attempt at a day hike to 'Moon Peak' it was time to return to Pathankot where we could pick up the train for the short journey to Amritser. Darren was somewhat unlucky on this particular 4 hour bus journey. He got off for a smoke probably around halfway to Pathankot, overlooking the fact a number of Indians were about to board. Despite his bag on his seat and my genuine attempt to preserve it, a determined Indian lady simply threw the bag at me planting herself down and smiled smugly at my protestations. What to do? The look on Darren's face wa priceless.
In Amritser we made a new chum called Anje. Anje is from Cologne and had been doing a bit of chum making herself. She had met an Indian guy on a recent train journey and mentioned she would be visiting Amritser. 'Ah, my brother lives in Amritser, I'll get him to meet you and show you around'. It turned out that the brother, 'Dillon' actually lived 5 hours out of Amritser but nonetheless bowled up at the "Tourist Guest House'. Apparently he is seeking
Mccloud Ganj
Inside the temple a shiny new German wife hence his enthusiasm. Anje was understandably keen for me & Darren to accompany her so we all went out for a few drinks and a bite to eat. Dillon is actually a fairly affluent Indian businessman, running a farming equipment business as far as we could make out (his English wasn't the best). His other claim to fame is a second brother who is chief of police in a neighbouring town, I'm not quite sure where. This appears to carry some clout in India. Dillon drove us to a restaurant the wrong way up a very busy main road, stopped in the middle of the road and told a traffic officer 'My brother is chief of police'. He was then ushered VIP style to a parking space no questions asked. The evening went well and Dillon decided to overnight himself at the Khyber Continental whilst we slummed it back at the Tourist Guest House. Next day he takes us all to the Golden Temple. Amritser has numerous road blocks in & around the temple. 'My brother is chief of police' and the roadblocks were no more. VIP parking directly outside the Golden Temple as well
Buddhist Monks at the Temple Complex, Mccloud.
HH The Delai Lama lives directly opposite from here. of course. The Golden Temple itself was pretty amazing, incredibly busy and we were all made to feel very special as everyone wanted to talk to us and get a picture taken with us, usualy a young child or baby would be thrust at you to pose with. We also visited Jallianwallah Bagh, site of the Amriser massacre in 1919 where the British Army opened fire on unarmed men, women and children killing nearly 400 people. Again we were welcomed like film stars which was somewhat bizzare given our location. Dillon left to return home with our grateful thanks for looking after us so well.
Just 1 hours drive from Amritser is the border with Pakistan. This is also the venue for the daily 'closing of the border ceremony'. It is a little strange to say the least but every day both Indians and Pakistani's and a number of tourists like ourselves make the journey at sunset and watch a bizarre ceremony in which India and Pakistan basically try and outdo each others ceremonial efforts. Loud music, dancing, crazy marching, flags waving and on either side of the border the audience are worked into a frenzy of nationalism. All
very humerous for us foreigners but I didn't see any Indians laughing, serious stuff indeed for them.
Well this jaunt of mine is nearly at an end, I'm writing this from Phi Phi, Krabi Thailand where I'm chilling out for the last few days before returning home at the weekend. It's quite wet but it really doesnt matter as the Thai food still tastes absolutely great! I left Darren in Amritser where he will continue his travels around the globe for another year at least. It has been an absolute pleasure travelling with Daz so a big thanks to him, it really has been a heck of a lot of fun. Our time in the mountains of the Himalaya will live long in both our memories I have no doubt. Well if anyone is actually still reading all this drivel thanks for sticking with it, stay tuned as the sequel just may not be too far away, Everest is calling...! 😊
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richard k
non-member comment
almost home :(
hey rich, this drivel has kept me entertained on many a dull amex morning and has genuinely brought a smile to my face. safe journey home lad, see ya when your back and hopefully for the England Argentina game in the next round. RK