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Published: June 15th 2010
Monday, 14th June, Dubai.
This was one port that I had many expectations of and looked forward to seeing this ‘most modern city on earth’. Historians tell us that prior to the advent of Oil and natural gas in the region, Dubai was no more than a fishing village belonging to the Bani Yas tribe who made their living from fishing and pearling as well as camel breeding but was now the shining star of 21st century success. It’s other claims to fame are the tallest building in the world, the only 7 star Hotel in the world (Burj Al Arab) and The Gold souk. It was also the home of Sinbad the sailor.
The city is split into two parts, the old part Bur Dubai retains many of it’s ancient buildings and old Souks then on the other side of the Dubai creek is the new part Deira. Of course the new part is a monolithic concrete jungle that houses some of the most dramatic pieces of architecture on the planet built by a society that believed it possessed an inexhaustible wealth. A very dramatic skyline and an extremely high standard of living for the general populace. This of course if offset and complimented by the old section of the city that shows what life was really like in days gone by.
We started off on tour with a temperature of almost 39C and a massive humidity which peaked at around 1pm at around 43C. ( Friends who went on a tour of the desert to eat with a bedouin family suffered heat temps of 54 C. ) and we did a city tour of famous landmarks. Like Singapore the roads were fantastic and the buildings spectacular. The whole city was clean to a point of appearing sterile and due to the heat there was hardly a pedestrian to be seen which was quite unusual for a population of over 4 million souls. It was quite eerie to see wide boulevards and shopping centres almost completely free of pedestrian traffic. One of the most amazing things we saw was the train system with it’s space age stations and trains that had no drivers as they all are run by computer. The whole rail system was above the traffic and spotlessly clean.
Again, no bangers on the roads, all cars being modern ones, mainly imported from Japan. Taxi’s were abundant and cheap and wonder of wonders, the excellent bus service had bus stops that were inclosed and air conditioned. The city is a technological wonderland, but lacking that bit of class that Singapore possesses. Of course, many of the old traditions still apply, such as the present ruler, the Sheik, has 4 ‘Official’ wives and 90 children.
Our first stop was the seaside resort of Jumeirah, an affluent suburb where the houses were fantastic and here we stopped at the world famous hotel Burj Al Arab and this was certainly a sight to see where the average price of a suite is $4000 US per night. Here Linda dipped her feet in the Arabian Sea after a short stroll on the beach and it was fortunate that it was not a ‘men only beach’.
From there we went to the Dubai Museum, a 17th Century Arab fort called Al- Fahaida and thankfully the underground displays were air conditioned. A very interesting place that has been over the centuries a fort, a prison and a Palace and well worth the visit.
After that we walked In the heat for over a kilometer through some very interesting back street Souks which made you feel like you were intruding into the late 18th century and we then boarded the ‘river taxi’s’ which took us to the other side of the Dubai creek where we visited the very old ‘Spice Souk’ and the ‘Gold Souk’ where we saw amazing displays of pure gold jewellery and artifacts in all the shop windows. By this stage we were absolutely exhausted from the heat and had seen enough, so thankfully we returned to the ship for a fantastic shower and feed.
A very enjoyable day (apart from the heat) but to be honest I much preferred the city of Muscat which was not as big as Dubai but had far more history and character. I seriously doubt that many folk who rave about the city of Dubai have never visited Muscat and I am pretty sure that even they would not fail to be impressed by this quaint little city.
One of the more surprising thing about Dubai was the Government housing for the Bedouin people, the nomadic wanderers of the desert. In Australia they would be called ‘Housing Commission’ but the difference is immense. These houses were truly magnificent and they have to be to lure these ancient nomadic people into the city to get them away from their ancient (thieving some would nastily say) ways. The government also pays them to have children, gives them free education, jobs, pay no tax, electricity, gas or water bills etc. The fact is also that none of the other residents pay tax either.
Other benefits of living in this type of society is that they have an almost zero crime rate, no graffiti, no fighting, no drunkenness, no litter, no filthy language in public, no drinking in public and other disciplines at law, pay no taxes etc. I wonder what our problem is that we can’t achieve some of these things ? Maybe it’s the fact that we have one of societies greatest evils in the form of politicians rorting the system and misgoverning. Of course on the flip side many of their laws are extremely draconian and selective such as couples not be allowed by law to show affection in public, a gaoling offence as well as other stupidly silly sexist rules.
A city which is striking, amazing, in your face, technologically years ahead, but not one that I could live in, especially with the temperatures that it endures. One that I would like to return to and explore a bit more though as I have been truly impressed with the culture of the middle east and it’s people. There are many things that Australia could learn from these people (and of course, they could learn from us as well).
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Heather
non-member comment
I LOVED your post about Dubai, with all the information you gave about their laws, history, etc. I haven't been there yet but your post made me want to go even more! My blog is looking for travel photos, commentaries, reviews, etc, to share. If you have the time, check it out at dirty-hippies.blogspot.com, or email me at dirtyhippiesblog@gmail.com. Continued fun on your travels! Heather