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Published: June 14th 2010
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Pokhara - Sunali
6-7 hours to the Imdian border As much as Pokhara was enjoyed it was time to roll on. Next stop India. It's a bit of a tricky commute. 6-7 hours on a 'tourist bus' to Sunauli (we spent most of that on the roof seeing as it was a nice day). A 4km rickshaw or jeep transfer to the border (again we took the roof option on a jeep). Then it's immigration formalities. We were a day over on our Nepali visa, popular opinion is that a small 'fine' usually solves this predicament. The small fine on this occasion was 500NR eaxh, a fiver. That seemed to ease the furrowed brows and grimaces on the 4 man Nepali immigration 'panel' and we were on our way.
Next was a 2 hour jeep/taxi rideto Gorakhpur where hopefully we could get an overnight train to Varanasi. No such luck. All sleepers were sold out. Best on offer was a sleeper at 0530 the next morning. 'What to do?' as Hari would say. Well we checked into the best hotel we could find a stinking cockroach ridden place complete with soiled bedsheets. Gorakhpur really is not a five star holiday resort I can tell you. After a few hours
Sleeper service
The best way to enjoy the last views of Nepal sleep we boarded our sleeper coach, Darren had top bunk, I was in the middle. An Indian gentleman had already made himself comfortable in Darrens bunk so he was swiftly moved on and the five and a half hours to Varanasi passed equally swiftly.
It's every man for himself in Varanasi as demonstrated by their shockingly dishonest rickshaw drivers. Ask to go to a hotel and they will take you to a different one claiming your hotel has of course burnt down, fallen into the Ganges or been relocated to the other side of the Solar System. After one night at the Buddha hotel which was clean but in completely the wrong place we moved to the Schindia Guest House overlooking the Ganges and right next to the Manikanika burning Ghat. Well played Darren for finding this hotel which he stayed in 9 years ago on a previous visit. Wonderful views of the holiest river in the world and down to the Ghat (Ghat means riverfront) from the balcony. It is however crazily hot 46C which simply saps away your energy, slow movements are the key and I;m a dab hand at that after Thorong La!
We saw
Crossing into India
The border crossing at Sunali the burning Ghats on our first afternoon in Varanasi. Access to the ghats is via very narrow, incredibly busy and ancient stone pathways between high rise buildings. There are tiny shops on either side selling hot food, drinks and cigarettes, fabrics, even government licensed weed (bhang shops). Cows and goats are tethered all over the place. It is hot and filthy and the smell at times nausea inducing. Bodies are carried through the narrow streets down to the Ganges covered in a bright red & gold tinsel with the men following chanting rythmically and repeatedly. Women are not permitted at the burning ghats. The lanes are so narrow you must jump to one side to get out of the way of the procession. The Manikarnnaka Ghat seems to be packed with people from dawn until dusk as a constant stream of bodies are brought down to be burnt. Smoke hangs in the air and the bodies burn as they have done for thousands of years. This is an ancient ritual and it's quite incredible to witness it.
It is so, so hot here in Varanasi it is almost unbearable. Add to this the constant harrasment by rickshaw drivers, beggers
Gorakhpur
Sunrise over the station, it looked better at night to be honest. and just about anyone that thinks they can extract a rupee from you. It does wear you out somewhat and 2 days is as much as either of us can take. It has been absolutely fascinating but we're not hanging around and will move on to Delhi tonight on the Shiva Ganga Express leaving at 1915, in a little over 12 hours we'll be in New Dehi.
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Neil
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Great reading...
If I could afford to keep you going for another 3 months, it'd be worth my while because it's all so fascinating to read. Being in these places is life-changing. The streets of Colombo were eye-opening for me - this is something else.....! Not sure about the lack of a seat belt on the roof of those buses though, going round those bends on high hills.... bsve boys. Enjoy the rmainder Rich. x