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Published: February 21st 2010
It was love at first sight. After years of pure imagination, I was finally able to set foot on Batanes, a group of islands at the northernmost tip of the Philippines. Three islands are inhabited -- Batan, Sabtang, and Itbayat. It is actually nearer Formosa, Taiwan than Luzon mainland. Together with 4 friends (they just first met one another at the airport), our adventure was one that would be hard to forget. These compressed-amateurish-pictures-lacking-depth do not give Batanes justice.
We stayed at a local lodge the first night; the room has a great view but it was a bit cramped. Being on a tight budget, we transferred to a nearby a government-run hostel-type inn (Ivatan Lodge). The room was much, much bigger and better (with 5 individual beds), at half the price.
We hired a local tour guide, whom we met at the airport. We rented the pick-up of his friend to go around the island. Aside from the usual great places, our guide also toured us around areas where certain local commercials or movies had been shot. They say, when you're in Batanes it is as if you are no longer in the Philippines. I couldn't agree more.
There were areas similar to an island in Greece and the grazing lands of Netherlands, coupled with great beaches typical of the Philippines.
We went around the main Batan Island on our 1st and 3rd days. Batan is a place of rolling hills, clearest sea, great views, freshest air (strong winds...a welcome respite from the summer heat), free-range cows and goats, and warmest smiles. It was the place where I discovered I am scared of heights.
Our 2nd day was spent at Sabtang Island, which was 30-minutes away from Batan and may be reached via the
falowa (the Batanes version of a boat but has no rudders or
katig). It just danced through the famous big waves of the area on the way to the island. Well, I've actually experienced bigger and more frightening waves in Homonhon Island (where Magellan was said to have first docked in the Philippines in 1500s). Sabtang's similarly a great place -- where old Ivatan stone houses could be found (in Chavayan). Those houses have been declared part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We no longer went to Itbayat Island because of the 3.5 hour-boat ride to the island. They say
its boat-like share differentiates it from Batan and Sabtang. We were also supposed to hike Mt. Iraya, a dormant volcano and one of the 2 peaks in Batan, but decided not to because we were not fully prepared for the hike. Other activities to do: kite-flying, mountain biking, snorkeling, big game fishing, wind surfing (but you should bring your own gear for all of these activities), and camping. We went camping and pitched our tents in Valugan (Boulder) Beach. The huge boulders were spewed by Mt. Iraya when it had erupted centuries ago.
One thing very noticeable in Batanes was its people -- their warm smiles and happy demeanor. Although a stranger, you would still get a smile or a nod from the residents should you meet them on the streets. The policemen claimed that Batanes has zero crime rate (most arrests were because of drunkenness...people there just resort to gin drinking for lack of other means of entertainment). The illegal entrants (fishermen from Vietnam, who were actually still minors and have been on the island for a year) get to go around the island. I asked one policeman where they were and he replied, "Bumalik na lang kayo
mamaya kasi namamasyal pa." (
Just return later because they are still out walking around.) According to them, they allow the detainees to roam the island so that they would not get bored (they would not be able to go anywhere beyond the island, anyway). One for the books. Well, their approach to those kids was actually nice. One of them even asked if there was something that we could do to help those detainees.
It really was love-at-first-sight. The very expensive fare (considering that it is just a domestic flight) was truly worth every centavo. I would sure come back to Batanes.
Fast forward to July 2010
Revisiting this blog made me remember that we gate-crashed a traditional wedding reception in Batan. The newly-weds, their families and guests were gracious enough to let us participate in the festivities and of course...eat!
It was a curious sight. The guests were dancing pandanggo, a traditional Filipino dance that I now rarely see being performed (well, perhaps during cultural presentations). We first lined up in front of the table of the newly-weds to congratulate them, as well as to buy a shot of an alcoholic drink. If another person wants you to take another shot, he/she could buy you a drink, too.
Of course, the gate-crashers were pulled to the middle of the dance floor to dance pandanggo with a not-bad-looking guy, whom we later learned was actually paid to dance with the ladies. And we thought he was eye-ing one us! c",)
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truly a paradise.
it's my ultimate dream to get here, how much budget will be needed for 4days? pls help..i'm dying to see this place, i can'r sleep well just because i think of batanes everynight.♥ pls..