Nairobi, 14th Dec and Masai Mara 15th Dec


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Africa
December 22nd 2009
Published: December 22nd 2009
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Again updating after a long gap, havent had any internet connection in Kenya, just got back yesterday to Joeberg.

Nairobi, 14th Dec
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After Lion and Rhino park (will update about that one later, its a park near Joeberg that I went to), I decided to take a week long break from traveling, just wanting to relax, knowing very well that the next phase, the trip to Kenya will be a new experience and hence I needed to be chilled out.

Loved ghar ka khana cooked by Shelly, finished a few books and just lazed.

Come 14th, took the flight to Nairobi, a 4 hour flight to a country where I know no one. The flight was on time, Nairobi was sweltering hot when I got here, thankfully my safari guys were waiting for me at the airport.

Nairobi is as chaotic as India, traffic is bad, when you stop at a traffic signal, 20 people try to sell you something (and I thought Mumbai was bad).

The lodge I am staying in was ok, very unfriendly unless you let them help you with your bags (they resent if you carry your own bag).

Just some basic stuff about Kenya - its a democracy now with near 40 million people, generally the perception is the government is doing okay work (especially in the field of building roads where the Chinese are helping), education systems are good, no major religious or ethnic conflicts, 70% of population is under 30 (similar to India), largely export dependent (tourism, coffee and tea biggest export items) and hence been hit by the recession, surrounded by 5 countries out of which 3 are relatiely unstable (Sudan, Somalia, Ethiopia, other two being Tanzania and Uganda which are doing ok). Key issue in the country seems to be corruption which is supposedly rampant including at the highest levels of the govenment.

As a country, it reminds me a lot of India and is very different from South Africa, much less structure, much more chaos is what keeps this country going.

Nairobi is like any small Indian city, reminded me of Bhubaneswar.

Was advised by the safari people not to venture out alone in Nairobi in the night, so stayed in the lodge, relaxed.

Masai Mara, 15th Dec
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If you want to go for a safari, Masai Mara is one of the best options in the world (other being Serengiti, which is the same game reserve as Masai Mara, except its in Tanzania).

I started the 300km drive from Nairobi to Masai Mara at 7am with the safari company (Indian driver whose forefathers settled in Kenya, there are 1.5 Million Indians here, Indians also control many businesses in Kenya). Initial parts of the drive was good tar roads, which gave way to potholed tar roads and later to gravel roads which were difficult to navigate. Took 5 hours to get to Masai Mara, won't recommend the drive to anyone without a 4 wheel drive.

The drive took is to Rift Valley (highest view point is 8000 feet), one of the longest valleys in the world, stretching 11,000 km.

Masai are one of the smaller tribes in Kenya, but they have lived in this land for ages, hence they have a natural ownership of this land. They don't farm, they largely eat meat and hence focus on managing their cattle folk. They also believe in protecting wildlife, though as modernization comes in and human inhabitation increases, the wildlife is getting endangered.

Mara is a 1500 sq km reserve, situated at 5400 feet and is an amazing stretch of green plains. It has all the Big 5 plus many other wildlife.

After reaching the lodge at Masai Mara and a few hours of rest, went on a game drive in the late afternoon. While I have tried capturing what I saw, I cannot compare the pictures to real experience, especially with the binocular.

Also, I am taking this safari all alone, so the driver-cum-guide spends lot of time explaining things to me, which is a big plus.

It was special to see a leopard in the trees (they are rarely seen) and a lion family with 5 cubs.

In the evening, watched a Masai dance performed by the lodge staff, chatted for couple of hours with the guide and crashed post dinner.

Almost forgot! Saw a Finnish guy trying to impress his would be in-laws, reminded me of "Meet the Fokkers" 😊

Going for game drive early morning tomorrow


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23rd December 2009

Pijush, I love your travels and still haven't forgotten about you!!!!!!! miss you man!! am in chile now,so different and all on my own!! love jana
31st December 2009

Miss you too babe. South America all alone sounds awesome. Its part of my plan, though I may do a India train trip before that. Whats your blog address?

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