Portomarin, Palas de Rei, Arzúa, A Rúa and... Sanitago de Compostela!

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On Friday Debbie and I woke up at a reasonable time in Portomarin and met Gib downstairs for some breakfast before heading off. We were the only people in the hotel and it was very quiet! I had firmly decided that I was now going to stay in hotels all the way to Santiago in the hope of avoiding the bugs. Debbie's foot was giving her trouble so I walked in the misty, cold, foggy morning wit Gib, across the scariest bridge I have seen on the Camino. The night before we had crossed a very high bridge into Portomarin, but it was concrete and made for cars, while this one was a foot bridge made of not-so-secure metal plates! I felt very dizzy and had to focus on the horizon to get myself across. We walked up a steep path to the top of the ridge, coming slowly out of the fog. It became sunny as we walked along a road to the next town, Gonzor, where we stopped for coffee. I left Gib there and walked at a good pace alone for most of the rest of the 26km day, passing many Galician farms which stunk to high heaven! The walk was beautiful but I couldn't get passed the stench that wafted by each time I passed a farm. It was cow and corn country... some corn fields were harvested and others still had corn growing. I walked through Hospital de Cruz, Ligonde and finally arrived some hours later at Areixe where I had lunch with some other australians that I hadn't met before but who knew me from tales from Angi! I had a nice chat on the phone to Ewen back in Australia, before Gib caught me and we continued together to Palas de Rei. We walked through the town, past the church, to our hotel, Hotel Benilde, where we had a fabulous introduction to the hotel and town by the concierge lady. We went to our separate rooms and I opened my door... to see Debbie already in the room! She had taken a taxi on orders from the doctor. We all had dinner together before going to bed. I have now incorporated a bed bug check into my daily routine as a precaution!

On Saturday I woke up, realising in excitment that I only had three more days of walking left! The night before, Angi had messaged me saying she was pushing onto the next town in the hope of reaching Santiago on Sunday, which I had mixed feelings about; I felt a bit left behind. But it was ok and I walked slowly with Debbie that day, over the rolling green Galician countryside (now with less stench!), 16km into Melide. The plan was to get to Arzúa, which was another 16km or so, but we just coudn't make it as it was already 2pm. So we caught a taxi. I was a bit worried as I was within 100km from Santiago, which meant I was supposed to walk no matter what according to the Camino rules, but I figured that my previous 560km or so made up for any laziness now. We checked into our hotel, the hotel Siuza (Swiss), before going back into town to run some errands. Then we had dinner with Gib who had arrived after walking the full 32km before going to bed (after a full bug search).

On Sunday we woke up feeling tired; I took ages to get going. Debbie took the day off because of her sore foot and she wanted to be able to walk the last day into Santiago! I walked with Gib again, keeping a really good pace; I feel that my fitness has really improved and my legs are very strong and able to easily get me up hills now! We stopped for coffee in Calle, where I met a girl, Sofia, from Canberra who knew my brother's fiancé from her work. I then walked the rest of the way by myself to A Rúa, a total of 19km for the day, where I found Debbie and Gib waiting for me. I had taken my time as I passed through some eucalypt forest, planted by Franco during his rule apparently, where I was instantly transported home to the bush of the east coast of Australia! I stood in the eucalypts for some time, smelling the familiar smells and looking at the familiar trees and leaves beneath my feet. The three of us stayed in a 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment for the night which was very nice. After a special dinner of spaghetti, cooked to order by the on-site chef, we went to sleep.

My last days on the Camino have really made me appreciate the comminuty feel this walk has. Everyone I pass has a common understanding of what I am going through, as well as a common goal. I do feel as though that community spirit is somewhat lost in modern society back home, and it is my intention to try to bring that back into my life somehow when I go back. Religion doesn't have a lot to do with it; there is such a range of beliefs on the Camino; from straight-lined catholics to athiests who believe religion is only for the fearful. But I often see grafiti along the way saying "Animo!" (literally "Animate yourself", but understood as "keep going!"), which sums up the feel of this community; the spirit which pushes you to continue despite the problems you face.

This morning I woke up feeling very excited about reaching Santiago, a mere 21km away!! I got up with Debbie and packed up quickly, then after a quick breakfast the three of us headed off together in a beautiful pink sunrise. We walked together and separately (one pilgrim described it as an accordian, coming together, moving apart, coming back together...) through some more eucalypt forest and past an airport, before coming to Monte de Gozo (mountain of joy), 5km out from Santiago. Here there was a famous monument on the top of the hill, from which I could see the tips of the Santiago cathedral spires off in the distance. This really got me going! There was also a threat of rain as I had seen the forecast the night before, the clouds were increasing and the wind was very gusty. I therefore "trucked" along through the streets of Santiago, past busy shops and school children, to reach the cathedral in under an hour. When I got there I had the strangest moment! So suddenly I stopped, somehow realising that my journey had ended. I didn't see anyone I knew, and the big square in front of the cathedral was fairly empty. So I just stood there! I gazed up at the huge cathedral spires, watching as clouds blew by, for at least 10 minutes. My body was still warm from the fast pace I was going at just moments before, but here was just quiet and stillness; I had nowhere to be and nothing to do! Then suddenly I saw Angi, walking from the pilgrim office, and I snapped back to reality. It was so great to be there together! Angi took me around to the office to pick up my credential, which I happily accepted. We then found our items that we had previously posted before going to find our hotel.

I don't actually know how I feel right now about finishing my Camino... I am so looking forward to going home and sleeping in tomorrow, but I also feel lost without having to get up at 7.30am, pack up my things and get walking! I think I'll have a sleep on it and write some more about it in a day or two... tomorrow we have a day in Santiago, then on Wednesday we go to Barcelona for 3 nights before coming home via Singapore.

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Comments

[Patricia Hueneke]

Good on ya mate!
Hi Luci...Great ...you made it ...I'm soooo happy for you... Love Mum xxxx

[Rik]

Well Done!
Hey Lucy, I have been reading this blog as you went over the last couple of weeks and have to say it was a great read. Sounds like you can take a lot out of this trip and will have even more to tell back in Canberra. Good on ya! -Riko

[Alex]

Up around Agra there were heaps of gum trees planted along the road. Our driver said that they use them for scaffolding, because they grow quickly and are very straight. We went there towards the end of our trip, so I know what you mean - it was great to see them again! Very interesting about the feeling of community that you had. I feel similarly about the free software community (especially Blender). How do you think you will bring it back? Are you already a member of any clubs? Congratulations on finishing your walk. It sounds like it was a great experience.