Belorado, Ages and Burgos

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On Sunday we were quite sad to leave the lovely hostel in Santo Domingo, so we left a bit later than usual. It was only 24km (this, incredibly, is now a relatively small distance) to Belorado so we weren´t concerned about hurrying. It was also foggy all morning so it was great walking weather. The road was good; a flat dirt road for most of the day. Unfortunatly the land was very flat with few trees so we had to make a couple of detours for toilet stops! I think we concerned a few people the first time, when we had to walk around 200m off the beaten track; or maybe we made them think that there was something up that side road that they were missing out on.

So much information on the Camino is obtained through word of mouth. ¨That hostel is closed for fumigation¨, ¨The road ahead is really rocky¨, ¨there is a castle up that road and the road connects to the Camino further up¨and so on. We often wonder whether the latest rumours are true or are made up to benefit the originator in some way. Also, it´s amazing that, although the Camino is so well documented in so many books, maps and web pages, so much of the information is conflicting! One book says a day is 34km while another says 31km and another says 24km. I´m starting to think that it´s just best to just walk, and not think about the destination.

We have now come into high plains, around 700-800m elevation generally, so it is colder and more sparse. Long gone are the wineries... now there are finished wheat crops and dying sunflower fields. The Camino is famous for it´s sunflower fields but as we pass them all they do is bow their black heads at us. The summer is clearly over!

Continuing on, we crossed into the Castile & Leon province, went through a few small quiet towns and took a shortcut through a long wheat field before coming into Belorado. The last 4km were tough; it was hot and the road was long and straight, alongside the highway. Angi had to stop to perform some foot repair and in these last 4km my right knee started to give me a lot of trouble. We found our albergue and after a shower and washing I went out the back where there was a nice sunny area with a pool, where I enjoyed the sun. I then had a good nap as Angi looked around town and later I found her drinking wine in the Plaza Mayor (Main square) with some other pilgrims. We found a pilgrim menu at one of the bars, inside which there were a large number of retirees playing some sort of card tournement - men and women on separate tables. Then we went back to the albergue... I hobbled up the stairs to my bed.

Yesterday morning Angi was keen to set off early as it was a big day to Ages, over a tough hill. My knee was so painful by that stage that I decided to catch a 7.15am bus to the next town that had a pharmacy. That didn´t work out so after a breakfast in a local hotel with a group of Germans (it really is beneficial being able to speak German) I met with Angi (she sweatily walked up to where I was waiting) and decided to catch a bus to Burgos. Angi wanted to keep walking so we agreed we´d meet today (Tuesday) in Burgos. Angi continued walking to Ages where she stayed last night; meeting some familiar pilgrims, including Sarah who had made a mammoth effort and had caught up, while I went to Burgos. I found a great hotel, recommended by Angi´s client, and got a really nice room for 2 nights. I slept for a while, found some dinner and looked around town, then went back to sleep. I haven´t slept that much in a long time.

Burgos is a beautiful city; especially in the centre where there is an amazing cathedral, many small shops and other beautiful historic architecture and monuments. I immediately felt relaxed here. The people are friendly and it is very lively. Shops are open around 9.30am to 2pm, when almost everyone goes for a siesta. Between 2pm and 5pm only a few bars are open. At 5pm things start opening again and all the shops are open till 8.30pm. Then at 8.30pm all of the restaurants open their doors for dinner. It´s an odd routine, but one that I am finding very enjoyable!

Today I slept in and only got up to find breakfast because my stomach told me that I had to. Then I went back to bed and got up at 1pm when Angi had reached Burgos. We then ¨had¨ to rest again because of siesta time, before we went out exploring, taking photos and finding dinner. Tomorrow we plan on walking around 20km to the next main town, Hornillos; I feel like my knee is ready now to continue. I hope this will be my last hurdle and I can continue for the rest of the way into Santiago!

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Comments

[Alex]

Good idea to take the bus. The last thing you want is to permanently injure your knee! The siestas sound great. Jodie and I are going to Inida next week, so for the past couple of weeks we have been madly working to get everything in order before we leave. On most nights I have been working until midnight. Oh, this holiday is going to be so good.