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Published: February 13th 2006
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Just after New Year I headed to Buenos Aires. With hardly anyone on the double level bus, I got the chance to ride up front with the bus drivers. There, drinking Mate with Sprite, listening to Reggaeton to stay awake, and to my disbelief, tossing all of the trash out the window to the beautiful countryside, they tried to convince me that bus drivers are expert road warriors. Even though they had not had a day off in 42 days, and slept less than four hours per night on a tiny bed under the bus, they could easily make out the light signals from other drivers on the road at night. Double flashing lights coming towards you means that there is an oncoming car in your lane; two left blinks from the vehicle in front of you means that it is safe for you to pass (if you go at top speed). I can´t decide if I feel more or less safe in buses after that ride.
Don´t plan on going to Buenos Aires for less than ten days; you will not be able to withstand the gravity of the black hole! Everyone has a great time here; the people
are beautiful (confirming rumors), the clubs are all-night parties, and the steaks are more addicting than caffeine. The first thing I noticed in Buenos Aires was the curious way that the men seem to look great despite the mohawk/mullet combination that everyone wears. If you work in a bank, or separate trash from open bags on the street...It doesn´t matter; you have a mohawk/mullet. And it doesn´t make you look unattractive.
The second thing I noticed in this city is that there are disruptive protests in the streets at least twice a week. The Argentinians love to march to the Casa Rosada to get their message heard. I never saw any Evita-like figures emerging from the windows of the Casa Rosada. Not once. Did anyone hear their messages?
The Madres de la Plaza de Mayo have been marching around this central plaza for decades, trying to tell the world about how their sons disappeared during the "Dirty War" of the late 70´s. But the government still refuses to account for the whereabouts of their children, or the circumstances of their deaths.
I spent many days taking Tango lessons at Confiteria Ideal, an old famous cafe near the
Diagonal Norte. The teachers are amazing dancers, but not very good teachers. They like to show off a complicated move roughly an hour after the students arrive, and then go to eat and chat between themselves afterward instead of helping people understand the movements. Why did I continue to go back? The reason is because there were so many advanced students that attended everyday. These were the people who taught me almost everything; I should have paid them instead. I suppose I paid for access to the dance space and good sound systems with a huge variety of music. The best leads, as I had heard, were the older men. So it was a pleasure to dance with them, and I think they enjoy equally as much dancing with the younger women. Everyone wins!
One of the most interesting memories I have of Buenos Aires was meeting up with a gang of street children. Not as violent as those rumored to be in Rio de Janeiro, but nonetheless with ferocious audacity. From a distance I saw them at first, about seven kids between the ages of eight and twelve, thrashing through some garbage sacks, taking whatever objects they found,
and smashing them against cars. There was a driver in one of the cars. He screeched to a halt, shook his fists at the kids, and yelled angrily. He did not get out of the car...why? I honestly think he knew he would get beaten up. These kids were not afraid of anyone. As I walked by, eating some M&Ms, one of the younger ones came up to me and said, "Give me some candy!" With an attitude, I said "No, go away!" He laughed, slapped my bum and ran off! I followed them for another fifteen minutes to see what trouble they would get into. Nothing too serious, but they put some serious scratches and dents in people´s cars, tore through more garbage bags making a huge mess, and fought amongst themselves. One stopped in front of a shop window to look at his own reflection, posed with the posture and punch of an engaged boxer. Give these kids a few years and they will be causing much more serious trouble. Actually I heard someone from my hostel was beaten by a similar group of kids and had to go to the hospital.
There is so much more
going on in BA, mostly just a lot of fun, with a lot of great people. Sounds like some are returning there just to go to Siga la Vaca, an all-you-can-eat steak and wine buffet. Wish I had the time! What was supposed to be ten days there, turned into three weeks. The photos should show much of what else there is to see in the city.
Next stop was Iguazu Falls on the border of Argentina and Brazil. Another highlight of the trip, this is just such an amazing place. Hopefully you get the idea from the photos; I´m not going to attempt to describe it. One thing which I don´t have good photos of though: I took a 15 minute boat ride right into both sides of the falls! They take you under the falling water; it feels like the boat is going to loose control and sink under the pressure. You can´t see much because of all of the water and mist everywhere...overly expensive, but totally worth it.
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Tony Welch
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Hi Sarah,How are ya? looks like your having fun! Diana and I have really enjoyed your journals, please be safe and watch your bum! See ya when you get home.