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Published: November 6th 2008
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First of all I should say sorry for hitting you all with a very sad poem and then not writing for a few days. Yes, the poem is true, I did lose a student over the weekend to a car accident and it was quite a shock after so many days of celebration. But this blog is not about that and I have been promising to tell all about Muertos in Oaxaca and here it is.
Los Dias de los Muertos, or Muertos for short, is all about celebrating with your loved ones that have past from this world to the next. It starts the week prior to November 1st and 2nd , with alter making and bread buying, and on the weekend it all erupts into one gigantic party. All last week alters started going up all over the city. In our schools, homes and down the sides of streets.
Alters can be both very elaborate or very simple. Traditionally they are made with five layers or steps, representing the five different stages of life. These steps are then covered in white cloth and decorated with papel picado (a specially cut tissue paper). An arc made of sugar
cane is erected over the steps, with marigolds as decoration, and represents the doorway between life and death. Often a cross or pathway is made at the base of the alter out of sand, flowers and fruit, and helps lead the way to the alter. Sometimes a tapeta (grass mat), clothes and blankets are laid at the base in order to give the spirits a place to rest after their long journey. A glass of water (which represents life), salt, bread, fruit, mole and scented marigolds (called cempasuchil) are laid on the many steps of the alter for the spirits to eat and drink. Photographs of lost family members are put on the top of the alter as a way of dedicating the alter to them along with their favourite foods and drinks, toys or special objects that may have belonged to them. Copal incense is burned around the alter as a way of both drawing the ancestral spirits towards the alter and keeping the bad spirits away. May candles are place on and around the alter as a way of guiding the spirits on their journey home and to represent life and hope. Calaveras, small skeletons decorated in many
different occupations, are often set on the alter as a way of celebrating the life of the spirits. Alters can also be very simple and contain only a few candles, incense, water, photos, bread and flowers.
The group of us participated in setting up an alter at Ollin, our Spanish school, on Thursday the 30th and the finished product looked and smelt amazing. Afterwards we headed up town to Alcala St which runs between the Zocalo and Santo Domingo Church. Normally a main tourist street, the whole six blocks of Alcala were set up with alters and mandallas for a competition between all the local high schools. It was an amazing site of colour, smells and celebration. We could feel that the whole city was revving up for a massive celebration and the buzz was inescapable.
On Friday evening we all met at Ollin for a presentation on Muertos customs and then started our night walking tour of Muertos in Oaxaca. We walked up to the Zocalo and were met by kids in masks Trick-or-Treating all the tourists. We continued on to a local arts school which was putting on an amazing dance and theatre production. The centre
courtyard was laid with candles and mist, while dancers dressed as skeletons danced around the second level balcony and descended into the audience. We followed them down a hallway lit by candle as grim reaper figures stood stoically, reaching out every now and then to brush an audience member’s arm or shoulder. In the second room the skeletons put on a stage dance accompanied by mist and an overhead projection. I love theatre that involves the audience in the production so this was a perfect way to start to evening.
We then headed to the main cemetery in Oaxaca to view some more and alters and, more importantly, eat some food! The whole outside of the cemetery was lined with carnival games, music and food stalls, all of them selling tacos and enchiladas and chocolato Oaxaqueno. We gorged on fresh zucchini flower quesadillas and watched the fiesta going on around us. After food we all hopped into taxis and headed for Xoxocotlan (known here as Xoxo, pronounced “hoho”).
Twenty minutes from downtown, Xoxo is a small pueblo famous for its beautiful cemeteries during Muertos. Unfortunately this means many bussed in Eddie Bauer dressed, flash camera toting tourists which
made all of us feel conspicuously not-Mexican. Despite the crowds we all wondered through the tightly packed ancient cemetario, full of flowers, candle and amazing scents. The tradition, since before the Spanish, has been to sit by the grave of your family members, singing, eating and drinking, all night long. Many families were doing this and the cemetery was floating on songs. Outside the walkways were again filled with food stalls and games. We got stuck in one particular tent with a group of singing locals who shared their mescal and merriment with us. We ate hot cakes covered in caramel sauce and sprinkles and talked away the night, returning home to our beds at 4:30am.
Saturday morning I struggled out of bed to go to Santo Thomas, one of our volunteer sites and the place to source out a good woven bag (see previous blogs). We played games the with the kids there all morning and then treated ourselves to fresh cactus fruit and nut ices from on the dad’s. Back in town I went for pizza and wandered around the festivities and many stalls. Then came an all too short siesta followed by another night of celebrations,
this time at Nacho’s house.
Nacho (aka Nigel) is one of my fellow students and his house parents invited us all over to party and experience a true Mexican parade, called a comparsa. We heard the music from far away and slowly the procession rounded the corner. Dancing and singing they stopped at each house who’s owner had requested a show. At our house they all came into the drive and put on a short comedy skit about death and dance on to the next house. Watchers we apt to be swept up in the procession by masked ghosts or goblins who would dance you down the street. It was another late night.
Sunday I rested in bed for awhile before heading back down to the Zocalo to eat and wonder the streets, trying to soak up every bit of festivity into memory. The parades have continued all week, every now and then we pass a street and see a comparsa dancing in our direction. As you know from the previous blog the week started with sadness, but the beauty and liveliness of the city has pulled me through and I love this place even more. It will
be hard to leave.
A hands’ memory
The candle light glows warmly through the petals of a lily.
Winds brush through the graves causing the many lights to flicker and dance in the dark.
I feel his hand grip mine, tight, firm and cool, just like the last time I saw him.
He stands next to me, tall and quiet, and we watch the lights together.
“You’ve never come to visit me” he says softly
I can feel those crystal eyes sparkling at me and I look away.
“There was never enough time” I explain
His eyes are still on me
“Next time I’m there” I promise
The wind comes once more, the flames waver and he is gone.
But my hand is still warm.
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Ckc07
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wow
1. Great poem 2. Great blog Love to hear about Oaxaca since we are going there next summer and I am trying to gather info! Thank you!