Japantown, SF, LA, SJ

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Most major cities across the United States have an area called either Japantown, or Little Tokyo. In San Francisco, it is out on Geary past Van Ness, and is called Japantown. In Los Angeles, the area is called Little Tokyo, and sits right next to downtown Los Angeles and the business district. In San Jose, it is located on Jackson Street, not too far from City Hall.

The original reason for these strongly ethnic areas was of course, the pattern and limitations of immigration, and the comfort level of my ancestors. The first Japanese arrived in San Francisco or Soko as they called it, in the early 1860s. For the most part, they lived in Chinatown and in neighborhoods south of Market Street, including South Park and the area near what is now the San Francisco Shopping Centre. It was not until the devastating 1906 earthquake and fire drove many of them from their homes that they began moving to the Western Addition. As they settled here, they built churches and shrines and opened typically Japanese shops and restaurants. The neighborhood took on a very Japanese character and before long became a miniature Ginza known as Nihonmachi, or Japantown. It is here that the foundations of San Francisco's Japanese American community took root.


Early in 1960, San Francisco embarked on a pioneering program which included the razing of a five-acre, three-square-block section of Japantown, the area bounded by Geary, Post, Fillmore, and Laguna Streets, to make way for the Japan Center (originally known as the Japanese Cultural and Trade Center). In the Fall of 1960, the San Francisco Redevelopment Agency agreed to sell the three-square-block parcel to a single-purpose corporation, Japan Center formed by a Japanese American group from Hawaii to create and develop the Japan Center.



By the mid-1970s revitalization was well on its way and was evidenced in the new and rehabilitated homes, stores, restaurants, and businesses owned by people who had lived in the area for years, in the reconstructed churches and institutions, and in the cultural activities offered by the familiar community centers that have historically been located in Japantown. In 1975, the Best Western Miyako Inn opened at Sutter and Buchanan Streets, one block from the Japan Center, and, in 1976, the Buchanan Mall leading to the Center's main entrance from the north was completed. The block-long pedestrian mall, with its flowering plum and cherry trees and cobbled streets, resembles a mountain village and provides an interesting contrast to the formal structure of the Center.



That brings us to today, and our reasons for going to J-town as I call it. First, there are several Japanese grocery stores that sells products from Japan, as well as fresh fish and sushi for a quick lunch. Sheri has taken her Beginning Japanese class there for a cultural experience. Second, there are some interesting stores, including a large bookstore, Kinokuniya, and several curio type stores. And third, there are alot of good sushi bars and restaurants that provide a fairly authentic Japanese meal.



One of my favorite places is a noddle shop called Sapporo-ya, offering several types of noodles (ramen), and pot stickers. It is a good late night snack if you end up missing your dinner before your concert or theatre. I also like Fuku Sushi, Osakaya, and Mifune. The most interesting store in J-town is Soko Hardware, owned by the Ashizawa family. Besides typical hardware items, they carry all kinds of Japanese cutlery, tools, garden accessories, cooking utensils, and dinnerware. I dare you to leave without buying something.



Just down the road in San Jose, a much smaller but good quality J-town exists. Japantown San Jose is designated as an authentic ethnic neighborhood and home to many traditional Japanese restaurants as well. California State Legislation designated this area as one of the last three remaining historical Japantowns in the United States. Another branch of Soko Hardware lies here as well, along with a golf shop.



The Dobashi Market has all kinds of Japanese foods. Shuei-do Manju Shop (the last visit of the Emperor of Japan saw these confections being requested specifically), Nichi Bei Japanese English newspaper, hand made tofu at San Jose Tofu and a variety of restaurants, professional services, community organizations (Yu-Ai Kai Senior Center, Japanese American Citizens League for example) and small retail shops. Two churches founded by Japanese over 100 years ago thrive on the same street (Wesley United Methodist Church and San Jose Buddhist Church Betsuin. The former San Jose Mayor, and a good friend over the years, Norman Mineta started here. He then became a Congressman, and was GWB's only Democratic cabinet member.



We often stop on our way to or from Monterey in J-town to buy manju at Shuei-do. The pink ones with the sweet white filling just melt in our mouth. It is better than anything comparable in Hawaii. We shall find out next year if Japan makes a better confection.



Moving on down to Los Angeles, Little Tokyo had approximately 30,000 Japanese Americans living in the area. Little Tokyo is still a cultural focal point for Los Angeles's Japanese American population. It is mainly a work, cultural, religious, restaurant and shopping district, because Japanese Americans today are likely to live in nearby cities such as Torrance, Gardena, and Monterey Park. However, the recent boom in downtown residential construction is changing the nature of Little Tokyo. What is left of the original Little Tokyo can be found in roughly four large city blocks. It is bounded on the west by Los Angeles Street, on the east by Alameda Street, on the south by 3rd Street, and on the north by First Street and the Los Angeles Civic Center.



Two wagashi (Japanese sweets) shops located in Little Tokyo are among the oldest food establishments in Los Angeles. Fugetsu-do, founded in 1903, appears to be the oldest still-operating food establishment in the city and the first one to celebrate a centennial. Its best-known offerings include mochi and manjū, and it claims to be an inventor of the fortune cookie. Mikawaya was founded in 1910, but is now well known as the company that introduced mochi ice cream to the United States in 1994.

My two favorite places to eat are Yokohama and Hana. There is a big Hello Kitty store, and a branch of Kinokuniya bookstore. Mitsuwa is the largest Japanese grocery store in the United States.

On previous business trips down here, I actually would run into people I know. It is a great place to buy a small gift or have a quick lunch. I hope you will give it a try next time you are in LA with an hour or two to kill.

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Photos

San Francisco Japantown Pagoda
Several blocks of stores, movie theatre, restaurants, and a bowling alley

Cherry Blossom Festival
Every Spring, around April, a big Cherry Blossom Festival is held.

A Great Place To Meditate
Choose a glass of beer, cup of tea, or just sit and enjoy the peace and tranquility.

Comments

[Jason]

Error on number of Japantowns and Little Tokyos
You mentioned how there are a number of Japantowns and Little Tokyo's in the United States. There are only three, as mentioned in the first paragraph. There are Japanese enclaves, but none that constitute its own clump and design aesthetic as the three in California.