Cuzco - The Inca Capital

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Day 291 - Thursday 17 July

We arrived into Cusco the old Inca capital at about half five in the morning, and after quickly finding some accommodation it was back to bed for a few more hours sleep.

Around lunchtime we were up and about again and headed off to another English pub. I think i'm starting to miss English food again after all this time away. They also had English magazines and after such a long time it was good to flick through one.

With dinner over we headed over to a few travel agents. We wanted to walk the origional Inca trail through the sacred valley of the Incas to Machu Picchu. Unfortunately authorities limit the numbers and it sells out six months in advance. As we couldn't commit to a date back then we were hoping to see if we could get a cancellation as we've heard on the grapevine its possible. Well unfortunately it seems it isn't. There are alternative trails but enquiring about them they dont sound very good. Infact I think you see more on the trek we did yesterday on the Isla del Sol. I decided if I couldn't do the original, then I wasn't going to settle for second best. Maybe one day in the future I'll come back to do it.

With a new town to explore we had a walk around. Perhaps with time it will grow on me but my first impressions are that im not over keen. Its far too touristy and there are lots of tourists here that are obviously on short holidays. As such everything seems expensive. I'd much prefer to be in La Paz.

I wanted to have a few beers but Russ wasn't up for it so we agreed to delay it until tomorrow. Instead we had another walk around the city. We ventured a bit further out of the main tourist centre and I must admit it was a lot better. We also stumbled on another games arcade. Although a little more expensive than in Bolivia, its still cheap so obviously we had to call in.

Day 292 - Friday 18 July

Theres lots to do in Cusco and with time being a premium we were up early for a full day of Inca sightseeing. For todays agenda we've decided to visit the Inca ruins on the outskirts of town. In order to do so you need to buy a tourist ticket that gives you access to a whole host of ruins and museums, amongst and close to the city. At 130 Soles (26 pounds), its not exactly cheap but once again my Bangkok student card came up trumps and I got it for half price.

Unlike most other tourists in town were having to do it the gypo way so we took a public bus to the last ruin Tambo Machay an old ceremonial bath house where water still flows from a natural spring through Inca built water channels. After that we visited Puko Pukora which was probably an admin centre before walking down the hillside for an hour to Quenqo. Quenqo was apparently a ceremonial centre where rituals were carried out. Our final stop of the day was Saqsayhuman the most impressive of the four sights. Because of the huge stone walls it was initially thought to have been an Inca fortress but now its believed to be a ceremonial site. It had taken most of the day and I was knackered by the end. Although I've always wanted to do it, I'm quite glad we cant get on the Inca trail. Four days of this would kill me.

After walking back into town and getting an overpriced lunch, after all the walking i've done today I decided to go for a massage. I've not been able to afford one since Asia but you cant walk 10m down the road here without being asked if you want one. You can barter them down to only 4 quid for an hour, and I'm intrigued to know what an Inca massage is. I suspect its the same as every other massage and they just call it that for the tourists, but im interested in finding out nethertheless. Unfortunately my masseuse was rather tasty and my Inca massage was a sensual oil massage. So rather than relaxing and enjoying it, I spent the whole hour mentally planning the rest of my trip. If you don't plan ahead, who knows what might come up.

Feeling a bit refreshed, I had an early evening nap before we headed out for the night. Looking in the mirror on my way out I noticed I've caught the sun today and my tans starting to come back. God I look good tonight, even I'd do myself. Our first port of call was the Irish bar which Gary who I'd spent the weekend drinking with on my first trip to Santa Cruz had recommended. I thought it was pretty rubbish and full of middle aged Americans. There were only 2 Peruvian girls in there as well. Drink over we quickly moved on.

What a transformation the place was rocking. Everybody was smashed and people were dancing on top of the bar. I haven't been to a club like this since I'd left Asia and to think yesterday I thought Cusco was rubbish. I was also on fire and couldn't go a minute without some girl walking up to me and chatting me up. I didn't need to do any work. I thought I looked good tonight but wasn't expecting this. Most of them we Chilean or Brazilian and they all spoke good English, something they hadn't done when I was in Chile and Brazil and my Spanish was rubbish. Where were they then? I kept getting done over by the curse of the friends though. After a brief chat and a kiss their friends were dragging them away to go to some other place. Oh well there's plenty more fish in the sea and a few whispered in my ear that they'd be back later.

We were just about to go ourselves when a Spanish girl stopped me. She reckoned she was a model and had only come here for a few days to do a photo shoot at Machu Picchu before she flies home tomorrow. She was certainly pretty enough so I decided to stay a bit longer and have a chat with her. She asked me if I was married. Its only the second time someone has ever asked me that in my whole life, but the last time was also within the last year. I'm starting to get worried that im beginning to look old. When I said no she asked if I had a girlfriend to which I replied, "No but ive been travelling for 10 months now and met lots of girls in that time". What kind of reply was that, have I turned into a total spastic. I still had a dance and a smooch though before she had to go and get her beauty sleep before her flight tomorrow.

We then finally moved onto Mama Africas the nightclub everybody seems to know in Cusco. Russ initially wanted to go back home but with my current streak, I told him to stop being daft and dragged him in. Once again I was a hit with the ladies until suddenly my luck just ended. I dont know if I was suddenly too drunk looking as I had drunk quite a few Cuba Libres by now, but I went from being King to a down and out loser. Russ on the otherhand has perked up and is chatting to a rather nice Peruvian girl with an absolutely amazing torso. Its a good job Pa cant see him now.

Well there was only one thing for it, time to lower the standards. Now im not talking munters, but there not exactly models either. It seemed to do the trick. However I dont understand Peruvian girls one bit. I met a few tonight and for some reason they all said they were from Germany. They look more Peruvian to me and when a friend walked past they spoke in Spanish. Whats that all about, I dont care where somebody comes from. Secondly they're quickly dragging you into the darkest corner of the club for a bit of fun and then after half an hour just walking off. Come on you cant leave a guy like that.

Day 293 - Saturday 19 July

It had gone half six in the morning and was light outside by the time I'd left Mama Africas so it was three in the afternoon before I woke today. Speaking to Russ we both agreed it had been a cracking night so perhaps we wont leave cusco quite so early now. We had planned to move hotels today as the one were staying in isn't that great, but with check out long gone, that will have to wait another day.

By the time we'd had breakfast most of the tourist sites were almost closing and the sun was already beginning to set. The sightseeing will have to wait until tomorrow, but we did get a chance to visit some of the plazas.

Russ has a big date tonight with the girl he'd met last night, so when he went off to meet her at six I went back to bed. Waking up at 11 I still felt tired and didn't feel like a drink but its saturday night and as last night had been so good, I forced myself out.

I decided to start once again in the Irish bar. It hadn't done any harm last night and when I move on maybe i'll have the same luck as last night. Inside I got talking to two old Americans who own tour companies out here, before I got talking to a Peruvian girl who had overheard our conversation. She and her friend were the ones that were in here last night. Once again in a packed bar they were the only Peruvians in there. Even though I thought I should move on to one of the clubs as i'd probably have a better chance, for some reason I stayed talking with her until the bar closed at half one.

She was really interesting and although she looks more Mexican to me, she is indeed Peruvian and is on holiday from Lima. Shes called Yolanda and as it turns out had gone to university in California which is why she speaks perfect English in an American accent which was a bit strange. With the bar shut she asked me if I wanted to go for another drink in a club. Why not.

It turns out the club was Mama Africas the one I'd been in last night until half six in the morning. Once again the place was rocking and I bumped into Russ on his date. As we were both preoccupied we just gave each other the cursory hello. I also saw several of the girls I'd spoken to last night and one even came over and said hello which could have been embarrassing, but I decided to ignore them all and just talk to Yolanda. At least she wasn't lying to me when we talked.

Once again I was having such a good time I stayed until half past six again. I got back to the guesthouse to discover Russ has just arrived back and has brought his date along. He assures me they're not going to do anything but sleep, but I still felt a bit weird and went to use the internet for an hour. Its 7 in the morning and im dying to go to bed after two late nights in a row, I cant believe I'm having to use the internet.

Day 294 - Sunday 20 July


After 2 extremely late nights not surprsingly I wasn't even up until mid afternoon. Once again the sightseeing will have to wait for another day. Russ had gone of somewhere with his girl, so I pottered about for the rest of the afternoon and early evening.

I myself have secured a date with Yolanda the girl from last night so at 10 pm I went to meet her in the Irish bar. Apparently next weekend is Peruvian Independance weekend and as Cusco is known throughout Peru as the party capital of Peru, all the rich Peruvians will descend on here to party the weekend away. Apparently it should be really good. Even though we need to make up some time, me and Russ had already thought about staying here next weekend. We'll have to now.

Its a sunday night so all throughout South America it will be dead tonight. Not in Cusco though, we went to Mama Africas again and it was heaving. As its a sunday we decided to leave early tonight. It had only just gone half four.

Day 295 - Monday 21 July

As I'd been on my date last night, I hadn't actually drunk that much so awoke rather refreshed just before lunchtime. Definitely have to do some sightseeing today. With Russ still asleep in bed with his new girl, I decided I can't waste any more precious days, I'll have to go by myself.

My first step was the Campañia de Jesus church on the main plaza. Its a Jesuit church and a rival for impressiveness to the main cathedral itself. After getting my student discount, I went in to have a look. Im not relegious but I have to admit it was very impressive and I stayed there an hour. After that I went to visit another church nearby. La Merced. Although as old and also quite beautiful, it wasn't as impressive.

Back at the guesthouse I bumped into russ and we set about looking at our Machu Picchu trip. The trains expensive and we've found out an alternative route to get there at a fraction of the cost. Unfortunately it means being away from Cusco for 3 to 4 days. As its not something either of us wants to do now we decided well take the train anyway.

After a short rest I went out to meet up with Yolanda again for another date. She was with her friend and the bloke her friend had been with on saturday night. He'd been speaking Spanish all night and I hadn't spoken to him, but it turns out hes English and lives in Didsbury where I used to live before this trip. He comes here every summer to work as a tour guide. What a small world we've probably passed each other on the street or in the pub loads of times in the past and never spoken to each other, and now hes dating Yolandas friend.

Well its getting earlier, I only stayed out until 4am tonight.

Day 296 - Tuesday 22 July

I´m starting to get used to all these late nights as I was up and feeling refreshed by late morning. Not wanting to waste the opportunity I went to visit the museum at the site of Qoricancha the old Inca temple of the sun. Theres bits of Inca pottery and stuff but I wasn't overly impressed. I've seen better at the British museum. Still at least it was free as its part of my tourist ticket I'd bought last thursday.

After getting lunch I went to visit the cathedral. After yesterdays visit to the Campañia de Jesus I was expecting big things. It didn't dissapoint and I thought it really was impressive. Its not just the size of the place but the artwork inside is pretty good. If you only have time to visit one church in Cusco, i'd definitely visit this one. Its the best cathedral ive ever visited.

I've another date with Yolanda tonight. After four nights in a row we decided to have a change from Mama Africas and we went to Mythology instead. Its an equally good club and I was back to my old ways staying there until half five.

Day 297 - Wednesday 23 July

As well as going back to going out late, its back to long lie ins and I wasn't up until three in the afternoon. With plenty of attractions still to see on my touristy ticket I went to visit the popular art museum. I guess I'm just not into art. It was ok for free but I wouldn't have paid to visit here.

With a few hours still to kill before I meet up with Yolanda tonight I went to see some traditional Peruvian music and dance. I actually thought it was really good and was really enjoying the show when there was a power cut and all the lights went out. I didn't have time to wait for the power to come back on so unfortunately had to leave early.

I met Yolanda in the Irish bar (I dont seem to mind it now), and after a few drinks it was back to normal routine and we moved onto Mama Africas. As I dont have much time I've been racking up the dates as quick as I can and tonight its paid off. She wants to come back with me. I do quite like her though so I guess im going to have to reread the planet tomorrow and knock of some more towns and cities off the itenery.

Day 298 - Thursday 24 July

It had been a bit embarrasing last night as Russ had also brought his girl back and there were no spare rooms left in the guesthouse. At least its pitch black in there when the lights are off. Although strangely noone seemed to mind. We decided this morning that it would be best if we got seperate rooms, so I moved to another guesthouse across the street for a few days. Its not quite the Ritz but at least its private.

Yolanda had had to leave me at six this morning because even though shes 28 years old, officially shes still a good girl and isnt supposed to stay out late. As such she has to sneak back before her relatives wake up for the day and reaslise shes not home yet. This left me with the whole day to kill before we meet up again this evening.

I decided to visit another museum and an art gallery. I'm sorry but there was no improvement on yesterday and it didn't do anything for me.

Meeting Yolanda we decided to break with tradition and went to a different bar. It didn't feel the same and now I've my own place we decided to call it short after only 1 drink.

Day 299 - Friday 25 July

I forced myself up early today so I could visit the Inca ruins at Pisac. They come highly recommended. I had to wait a bit for Russ to get his arse into gear which was abit annoying but eventually we set off for the bus at lunchtime. Passing the Plaza Arames I can see the Independance celebrations are already under way, the squares packed with people and marching bands. Not wanting to miss the ruins we had to move on, the celebrations can wait until later.

About an hour later we arrived in Pisac. It really is a nice town sat in a valley. Very picturess indeed. The souveniers here are also a bit cheaper than in Cusco so I bought a few.

The ruins themselves are on top of a huge hill overlooking the town. For some reason it didn't look that far, so we shunned the taxis and decided to walk up. How wrong we were, because of the altitude we kept having to stop for a rest every 5 mins and it must have taken us nearly 3 hours to reach the top. Having said that I think it was worth it as I was really impresssed. Everybody goes to Machu Picchu but I think these are really good yet we only saw about 10 other people all afternoon. I cant believe no one comes here.

We arrived back into Cusco early evening and after taking a rest after all that walking I went to join Russ and his girl (sorry but I still don't know her name), for a game of darts and pool whilst I waited for Yolanda to return from her visit to Machu Picchu today.

Day 300 -Saturday 26 July

Its Yolandas last day in Cusco today before she has to go back to Lima and she wants to spend the day with me. So we did just that.

After a brief split to get changed we met up again in the Irish bar. Its my 300 day of travelling and one of her friends has flown down from Lima for the weekend but rather than party like we should, we decided to have an early night.

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Photos

The famous 12 corner stone
Personally I think this one is a load of rubbish but the Peruvians love it

Thats a big wall
Inca walling - No mortar was used

Tambo Machay
Inca bath house

Comments

[Kane Walker]

hello
love listening to your journey its truely inspiring. kane walker