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Published: April 5th 2008
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Every summer for 13 years now, I’ve spent at Centauri Summer Arts Camp, in some capacity or another. There is a family who lives in Tortola (British Virgin Islands) and sent their two boys to camp for about 5 years, though it’s been I think 4 years since they’ve been there. The boys used to joke with me about me coming to visit them in Tortola. It was a nice little fantasy that I never really thought would happen. But now, here I am, sailing on the Liberty where one of our ports of call is Tortola! Thanks to the magic of facebook, I’d been in contact with them and let them know I was coming to their island. So today, I had another reunion, after 4 years, this time with the incredible Joe.
Joe came down to meet me at the ship early this morning. I didn’t realize how close he lives to ship, but he could point his home out to me from where we were. I’d told Joe that the only thing I was interested in seeing in the BVI was him, so what we did for the day was his call. And what a great day
he planned out for us!
We took a ferry over to Virgin Gourda, another one of the BVI. Normally the ferry only takes 20 minutes, but the water was really choppy today, so it took twice as long. I didn’t mind. Joe is an excellent tour guide! He pointed out all the other islands around us and told me stories about what rich person owns which island and what their plans for them were - everything from a golf-course and million dollar condos, to an island completely energized with solar power (good work Richard Branson). In between his guiding, we caught up on the last four years and what we’ve done and where we’ve been and what the people we know are up to.
Over on Virgin Gourda, we walked past all the taxi drivers and started walking down the road . . . and then we hitched a ride. The locals do it all the time. I was so pleased and surprised by how someone would just pull over, ask where we wanted to go, and a few minutes later we were there. Such a simple thing, but when I’m so used to being in these ports
and being treated as the tourist and forking over ridiculous sums of money to go short distances, it just seemed so generous.
But I wasn’t the only one experiencing an odd culture. Joe is normally in school during the hours cruise ships are in port (he skipped school to hang out with me!! - not that I recommend that of course . . . but as he said, he’s already accepted into university and it’s only the first day back after a two week break . . .). So, Joe’s never really come into contact with cruise passengers. All day he’d point out things that aren’t normal parts of the island, that just come out for the ships: vendors, open-air taxis, craft stalls, etc.
We went to a spot called The Baths, a rock formation of HUGE granite boulders and hidden sea ponds created by ocean water finding its way between the rocks. There’s a path leading down the water where there is a small spot of beach, then the huge rocks start. About 100 yards through the rocks is Devil’s Bay Beach. Joe told me how much the site has changed since he was young. A path
is created through the rocks, with steps built to climb over rocks to make your way to the beach. This didn’t exist until the last few years. It was completely backed up with tourists. Joe could not believe how many people were there; said he’s never seen so many people there. Normally it’s a quiet place you can go with your family, a date, or have a children’s birthday party!
Joe took me off the path, over and around the rocks. I found this quite scary at times. There’s nothing to hold onto and there are some drops 20 feet or more down to either water or (more often) more rocks. I felt like such a scared little kid at times and kept apologizing to Joe for slowing him down. He was alternately like a cat and Spiderman, as he leapt from rock to rock! He told me he and friends have raced the whole hundred yards, jumping across the boulders. He’s fearless, that guy. But then again, he’s been doing this almost his whole life.
It was quite the workout climbing those rocks. I was quite grateful it was a cooler overcast day, cause I imagine if
the sun was beating down, it would have been even more draining. My hands and feet started hurting as I could feel callouses trying to form from the roughness of the rocks. I think I’m good to skip the gym today after hoisting myself up, over, around and through all sorts of different spots. But I loved it. My kind of activity!
The Baths are stunning. Between climbing the rocks and wading in the water, we’d just sit out in the overcast-sunshine and look out at the water. Absolutely beautiful. By far, the Baths at Virgin Gourda has been one of the best sites I’ve visited this contract.
After a couple hours at the Baths, we hitched back to the ferry dock, then rode back over to Tortola. We wandered a bit around Rock Town, got lunch in a little sandwich shop - which was incredible! One of the best meals I’ve had in weeks. We sat in a park and finished our lunch and chatted more. Until eventually I had to make my way back to the ship to get to work.
But what a fantastic day. Two beautiful islands and a wonderful friend.
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swills82
Sarah Willett
JOE!
Oh how I miss the antics and charm of that boy. Must have been fantastic to have a little reunion. What a great kid. I shall search him on facebook now. lol. Jealous once again of your adventures and friends.