Into the Provinces

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North by north east

Our week in Phnom Penh put to rest our dreams of motorcycling around Cambodia. With only six paved highways, any ride would have to be undertaken on dirt bike to manage the dusty stretches pockmarked with crater-sized holes. After speaking to every bike shop in the capital, we resigned ourselves to the fact that unless we were willing (ahem - able) to double on a dirt bike (with our packs), we were getting the bus.

Our first stop was Kratie, a sleepy town on the banks of the Mekong. Our reason for stopping here was twofold. The first was to see the endangered Irrawaddy dolphins harbouring in this part of the Mekong.

A quick moto ride through rural, riverside villages flanking the road, surrounded by palm trees and sugarcane, and soon we were in a diesel-powered longtail, scanning the waters for telltale spurts and soft breaches of the surface. A pod of about eight or ten dolphins were cruising around just under the surface, their sleek bodies reflecting the fading light. We were coming to realize that Cambodia displays the finest sunsets of anywhere we’d seen and that evening’s dusk didn’t disappoint.

Our second reason for stopping in Kratie was to jump on a boat from here and head north up the river. According to our (2005 edition) Lonely Planet, this trip was one of the prettiest in Cambodia. And we didn’t much fancy the prospect of another six hours on a bus. But alas, the boats haven’t run up this part of the river for two years. We decided to press on regardless, and were thoroughly rewarded for our efforts.

While Ban Lung town isn’t much to look at, our lucky tip of a guesthouse was a real find. The Lake View Lodge was once a governor’s house and it did indeed overlook a lake. Run by a very sweet family, our weekend at the Lodge felt like a weekend in the country.

We borrowed a bike from the oldest sister and rode out to Boeng Yeak Lom, a peaceful, circular lake surrounded by dense jungle. We passed an afternoon swimming in the deep, clear freshwater, while picnicking locals looked on and laughed. Likewise we lazily took in the local rubber and cashew plantations from an elephant’s back before a quick drenching at the waterfall.

On our return to Phnom Penh, we stopped in Snoul, which seems to only be a bus stop canvassed by child hawkers selling bananas, pineapples, mangos and… fried spiders. Large fried spiders. Needless to say we didn’t indulge, tempting as they looked…

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Photos

Sunset over the Mekong
Did I mention Cambodia has the most beautiful sunsets?

Irrawaddy dolphins
Not the greatest shot, but proof we got to see these rare creatures!

Our hotel in Kratie
Only three US dollars for our room (but it didn't have a sink).

Boeng Yeak Lom
Perfectly round lake near Ban Lung, the peaceful site of an afternoon's swimming and reading.

Near Lake View Lodge
No bitumen here, just red, dusty roads. We were coated after any outing.

Obligatory elephant shot
This elephant, property of a local farmer, carted us through rubber and cashew plantations and through rural farming villages full of excited children, all screaming 'hello'.

Waterfall
No need to swim here - the spray was drenching enough! A family were doing their washing in the stream just above the falls.

Dawn in Ban Lung
Charming in its own way, Ban Lung felt like a real Cambodian town.

Pineapple, banana, mango!
At the coach stop in Snoul. We ran into this young girl repeatedly on our stops to and from - we'd only buy her fruit if she sang to us.

Fearless
Spider snacks in Snoul. It's true - they fry these hairy little suckers then munch them down. Delicious.

Fearful
Quietly crapping myself, praying that hairy bugger doesn't run up my neck. The fangs are removed so they can't bite, but still... Duncan (arachnophobe) was standing well back.

Comments

[Paul]

Awesome! I wonder what it tastes like....Chicken, I suppose.... Shame about the road situation... but the bus sounds like a good idea. I don't know how well even a trail bike's suspension would deal with a landmine. You both look healthy and happy, which is good to see.

[shandunc]

Too chicken...
to see if the spiders taste like chicken! Let's just say they do...