Pingyao...

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Pingyao is an easygoing little town famous for its city walls that encircle the older part of town. Nicknamed as the Turtle City, it repeatedly resisted Japanese invasion during World War II. There are really two Pingyaos. The one inside the city walls, a tiny area two to four square miles, preserved for tourist; And the one outside the city walls, a urban sprawl rushing to modernize like the rest of China.

The Pingyao inside the walls is like a Hollywood set of old China. Walking around inside the walls transports you to a China of a different era (if you can look past the huge throngs of Chinese tour groups lead by megaphone-wielding flag-waving guides). Traditional styled single or double story buildings with clay-shingled roofs are the only kind of buildings you see inside the walls. Street vendors and shops line the major street, selling everything from furs to faux-antique Buddhist statues. Red lanterns are strung generously throughout the city. Nighttime strolls are absolutely wonderful as the streets light up ablaze with red lanterns. It is kept this way on purpose for tourists of course, but it almost feels as if the walls have shielded the city from time itself.

Here, I finally worked up the nerve to rent a bike and cycle around. There are very few cars inside Pingyao’s walls, outside it is a different story. Despite almost getting hit by a car once and a motorcycle twice, I had a great time. There are twenty or so temples, museums, and historical buildings inside the city walls and several outside. I spent two days cycling from one site to another. If you are a temple buff, Pingyao is for you. There are Buddhist, Confucius, and Taoist temples filled with statues, paintings, and other artifacts. Pingyao is a tourist city so the city does try its best to give tourists a good time. I managed to make it to a historical government court building in time for a mock trial. A defendant was brought in front of a judge and questioned, then given a chance to confront the witnesses against him. After shoving my way past a dozen or so tourist from organized tour groups, I was able to watch for a while and take a couple of pictures. It was surprisingly entertaining.

I’ve had such a nice time in Pingyao that I almost wanted to stay another day. It is such a relaxing place that I could easily just sit around and do nothing. Slip into a lazy backpacker lifestyle of living indefinitely at my cheap little hostel, chatting up random strangers, drinking 5 Yuan beer (about 75 cents), and 15 Yuan meals (about 2 bucks). I did the math, factoring in everything I will need to live comfortably, and my life savings would run out in about five and a half years. Frankly, I'm tempted.

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Photos

Pingyao Streets
Inside the old city. I took thing photo from one of the watch towers.

Red Lanterns
This city lights up at night with red lanterns

Gate in middle of road
Pingyao's old city retains its original layout as well as many of its older buildings.

Jumping Water
Water jumps out of the bronze bowl if you rub it just the right way.

Chinese Court
A free show that re-enacted how a court hearing would proceed in historic times.

Pingyao
You can hike around the walls. I think a full circle is about an hour's walk.

Bike plus cars equal bad
Didn't help that I was messing around with my camera either.

Jumping over the Dragon's Gate
For good luck

Comments

[Ming]

i know what u mean... after seeing enough temples, the buddha statues eventually get tuned out.